Door Ajar Signal and Interior Light stays on!!!
#16
But a recall would be admitting there is a problem see?....and they can't do that!!!! All in all we have had good luck with Ford vehicles.. we have a 3rd and last Aerostar.. but in this last one for example... the trans had to be replaced after only 1,000 miles! The trans in the last one was going too.. so Ford as I suppose as many companies seem to do.. tends to repeat it's mistakes. I have seen this Door ajar thing in other Ford vehicles..not just the F-150.. you'd think they'd get a clue!!!
#18
Mine's a '97 and this problem started last summer. It is very heat sensitive and acts the same as described above. It's not too bad when the weather's cool or cold but still irritating as H***.
I had it in for service recently and the manager informed me that it is a very common problem. Since my three years had run out last April he shot some WD-40 in the latch opening until it actually ran out the drain holes. The lights went out. He claimed the switches are magnetically activated and are located down at the bottom rear of the door. Supposedly they get dirty or dusty and the WD-40, or whatever you use, will flush them out to where they work for a while.
The next time mine acted up, about a week later, I used about a half a can of WD-40 and no success. I then took a rubber hammer to the inside bottom of the door and rapped it a few times which seemed to work but they may have just cooled off by then.
Since then I've noticed what seems like a whole lot of F-150's driving down the road with their cargo lights on in the middle of the day.
It's still winter up here in Wyoming. I hope they figure out how to fix this before it warms up again.
I had it in for service recently and the manager informed me that it is a very common problem. Since my three years had run out last April he shot some WD-40 in the latch opening until it actually ran out the drain holes. The lights went out. He claimed the switches are magnetically activated and are located down at the bottom rear of the door. Supposedly they get dirty or dusty and the WD-40, or whatever you use, will flush them out to where they work for a while.
The next time mine acted up, about a week later, I used about a half a can of WD-40 and no success. I then took a rubber hammer to the inside bottom of the door and rapped it a few times which seemed to work but they may have just cooled off by then.
Since then I've noticed what seems like a whole lot of F-150's driving down the road with their cargo lights on in the middle of the day.
It's still winter up here in Wyoming. I hope they figure out how to fix this before it warms up again.
#19
#20
Hey;
There are several ways that the problem can happen. I had the same problem with our demo vehicle. A) After sound deadning we had a bad contact with the dome light in the ceiling. B) The swithces do go faulty over time from excessive slamming of the door. C) Lack of grease (not wd40) in the latch.
The best thing you can do is find a wiring diagram for the truck and test each wire (passenger and drivers side are independent) to track down where the problem is (ie. driver/passenger switch or constant) if the problem persists it is the light.
Paul Lefebvre
Autonet Performance
http://www.autoperformance.net
There are several ways that the problem can happen. I had the same problem with our demo vehicle. A) After sound deadning we had a bad contact with the dome light in the ceiling. B) The swithces do go faulty over time from excessive slamming of the door. C) Lack of grease (not wd40) in the latch.
The best thing you can do is find a wiring diagram for the truck and test each wire (passenger and drivers side are independent) to track down where the problem is (ie. driver/passenger switch or constant) if the problem persists it is the light.
Paul Lefebvre
Autonet Performance
http://www.autoperformance.net
#21
I am familiar with PB Blaster. It's easily 150X better than Liquid Wrench. Liquid Wrench is water compared to this stuff. It's a really good penetrating oil. WD-40 just might not of been a good enough penetrating oil. There could've been carbon build up or just crap in the contact area of the switch and the Blaster helped to clean it off. I would stay away from Brakecleen, as it could damage plastic parts, and in most cases, will!
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1997 F-150, 4.6, automatic, Dark Toreador Red, Supercab, Flareside, 4X4 Off-Road, Towing Package, Factory moulded step boards, Ford hvy dty rubber floor mats, Kenwood 10-disk cd changer, Kenwood am/fm cassette head unit, PYLE 2000 Plus speakers, Ford bugshield, Black Manik push bar with 2 KC 100w Daylighters, wheel locks and spare tire lock, Ultra "Claw" wheels, Lund Lunar Visor, Ventshades, AVS slotted taillight covers painted to match, Ford bedliner, Lund Premier tonneau cover, cab and bed professionally undercoated, Code Alarm Sure Start RVS remote starter, Ford alarm, Realistic CB with Wilson Little Wil antenna and Astatic power mic, ported MAF sensor, Motorsport 9mm wires, dual platinum motorcraft plugs, K&N filter, Edelbrock throttle body, billit grille, and Lots of TLC!!
http://njf150truckclub.homestead.com/wyldf150.html
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1997 F-150, 4.6, automatic, Dark Toreador Red, Supercab, Flareside, 4X4 Off-Road, Towing Package, Factory moulded step boards, Ford hvy dty rubber floor mats, Kenwood 10-disk cd changer, Kenwood am/fm cassette head unit, PYLE 2000 Plus speakers, Ford bugshield, Black Manik push bar with 2 KC 100w Daylighters, wheel locks and spare tire lock, Ultra "Claw" wheels, Lund Lunar Visor, Ventshades, AVS slotted taillight covers painted to match, Ford bedliner, Lund Premier tonneau cover, cab and bed professionally undercoated, Code Alarm Sure Start RVS remote starter, Ford alarm, Realistic CB with Wilson Little Wil antenna and Astatic power mic, ported MAF sensor, Motorsport 9mm wires, dual platinum motorcraft plugs, K&N filter, Edelbrock throttle body, billit grille, and Lots of TLC!!
http://njf150truckclub.homestead.com/wyldf150.html
#22
#24
the wd40 fixed the problem for now but to the person who suggested to just spend the $100 to get it fixed needs to know not everyone can go out and do that. the problem lies in the fact that ford went from a reliable pin switch to this crappy device they have now. and if they do a recall i will get it fixed till then if it does it anymore it will be wd-40 and that don't work i'll just take out the lightbulbs. and right now i'm going to figure out where to e-mail ford.
#25
#26
well, guess what? give up? i get in my truck today and my door ajar light stayed on as did my cargo and interior light...guess i need to get my spray out...Rich
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-1999 F-150 4X4 XLT SC
-4.6, auto
-3.55LS
-Westin chrome nerf bars
-dual straight pipes
-goodyear mt/r 265/75/16
-hikerdadrich@aol.com
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-1999 F-150 4X4 XLT SC
-4.6, auto
-3.55LS
-Westin chrome nerf bars
-dual straight pipes
-goodyear mt/r 265/75/16
-hikerdadrich@aol.com
#27
I have the same problem with the door ajar and dome lights on my 97 f150. Sometimes it will work fine, other times it will stay on from 5 minutes to long periods. When the truck was in the shop for the fuel filter recall, I stated the problem and the tech nodded and smiles liked she knew it was a very occuring problem. Then announced it would be a $85 estimate just to investigate what the problem might be, I declined.
If the problem is persistant, I just shut the engine off and pull the 5 amp fuse in the front fuse box (when it's not raining).
If the problem is persistant, I just shut the engine off and pull the 5 amp fuse in the front fuse box (when it's not raining).
#28
Hey folks- This is my first post here, as I just picked up my truck the other day... I am having the EXACT same problem, and I called the service dept at a dealer, and they said the switch needs replacing inside the door, and the door panel would have to be removed...
I would like to try the wd40/whatever lubricant idea first, however, but I am unclear where exactly to spray it...
Any info appreciated!
T
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'97 Expedition Eddie Bauer
I would like to try the wd40/whatever lubricant idea first, however, but I am unclear where exactly to spray it...
Any info appreciated!
T
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'97 Expedition Eddie Bauer
#29
#30
I had the same problem with my door ajar light and did the same thing as dennis, I also had the red extender nozzle thingy on it so i put that inside the door latch and sprayed. After I sprayed down all 3 doors they close alot better now too, i dont have to slam as hard, and i sprayed my tailgate latches also, which was being a pain to get open, and now it opens like it was new. WD40 is AWESOME!
Barto
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98 F150 XLT Supercab 4X4
4.6L V8 3.55LS
Tonno Cover, Brush Guard, Dukes of Hazzard Dixie Horn, 2 150 watt KC Daylighters, Cobra CB Radio
[This message has been edited by Barto24 (edited 03-16-2001).]
Barto
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98 F150 XLT Supercab 4X4
4.6L V8 3.55LS
Tonno Cover, Brush Guard, Dukes of Hazzard Dixie Horn, 2 150 watt KC Daylighters, Cobra CB Radio
[This message has been edited by Barto24 (edited 03-16-2001).]