I've spent the last few hours searching the forums for a similar thread, but so far nada...most of the results I've located are for adding keypads where there wsn't one before.
I have the code for my 2000 Lariat keyless entry system, but entering it doesn't unlock the doors. Is this fixable without a visit to the dealer? I've repaired my digital odometer issue, I know my way around electronics. I've also got one door suffering from the actuator issue... half up or down, never locked or unlocked. Just haven't had time for that up until now.
If you push the 7/8 and 9/0 buttons at the same time, do the doors lock ?
Have you tried pushing each of the 5 keys, to make sure the pad lights up. This would be push the 1/2 button, check for light, wait for the light to go out, then press the 3/4 button, etc.
at the moment I can't be sure if the pad is or isn't lighting up. I did notice that the interior light came on after I reached the 4th number in the sequence. I'll run out and try to determine if the pad is lighting up.
I don't believe the doors lock with the 7/8 - 9/0 button press. I'll check that too...
BRB.
Last edited by minimustangs; 10-22-2009 at 02:46 PM.
- 7 and 9 could make doors lock, Took me three presses, but it worked.
- I could get the keypad to light up. Here's what happened:
When the keypad lit up, 1,5,7,9 were lit, 3 was not.
Pressing each key in sequence, here is the result:
9 - caused pad to light up.
7 - caused pad to light up, but was intermittent
5 - never lit pad
3 - never lit pad
1 - caused pad to light up, but was more tempermental that 7.
Location: Among javelinas and scorpions near Tucson, AZ
Vehicle: 2005 Ford F150
Posts: 3,125
Sounds like a faulty keypad to me. I wonder if it's just oxidation on the contacts, and if this is something that could be cleaned off if you took the keypad out of the door and were able to open it up?
Well that may very well be. Wouldn't be the first time I've had to deal with a component / switch that was misbehaving. Specifically my wife's Mystique..but digress.
I'll have to look further into the keypad or at least the inside of the door tomorrow, as my wife will need the truck to get to work tonight.
The other 2 times I saw these symptoms, it was a damaged rubber cover over the switches, which let in water. You'll get it fixed, and quicker the 2nd time it will be dead again. I think they are ~ 45.00 + s/h online to get a new one ( on trademotion : collision catalog -> front door -> lock and hardware I think is where it is listed, maybe just search on keyword keyless ? )
If you have 2 keys dead, and 2 that are problematic, best just to replace the keypad.
There is some work to getting to the door ( think Jack has a technical Article / how to thread on the Jimmy Jamers which would help ) to replace it.
After you gave me the things to check, and it turned out this way, I somewhat figured that it was going to be more economical to replace it. I have a wreckers right down the road that might have one or two, might not hurt to check them out. Reliability is hit or miss though. Keypads are "dumb" - there's no access code or anything in them?
After you gave me the things to check, and it turned out this way, I somewhat figured that it was going to be more economical to replace it. I have a wreckers right down the road that might have one or two, might not hurt to check them out. Reliability is hit or miss though. Keypads are "dumb" - there's no access code or anything in them?
Yes, they are dumb, just a switch, the code is in the Body Security Module.
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Jim
Flowmaster 40, K&N dropin, Tint, Roush wheels, 305/50/20s
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After you gave me the things to check, and it turned out this way, I somewhat figured that it was going to be more economical to replace it. I have a wreckers right down the road that might have one or two, might not hurt to check them out. Reliability is hit or miss though. Keypads are "dumb" - there's no access code or anything in them?
Might be worth it, just keep in mind a brand new one should be ~ 55.00 to your door total. If the breaker wants more than 25.00 for it, move along.
Once you replace it, you can look to repairing it if needed for later. The button cover should peel right off, and you can get to the contacts to see what is up with them.
Location: Among javelinas and scorpions near Tucson, AZ
Vehicle: 2005 Ford F150
Posts: 3,125
Quote:
Originally Posted by SSCULLY
Might not be worth pulling and trying to fix.
The other 2 times I saw these symptoms, it was a damaged rubber cover over the switches, which let in water. You'll get it fixed, and quicker the 2nd time it will be dead again. I think they are ~ 45.00 + s/h online to get a new one ( on trademotion : collision catalog -> front door -> lock and hardware I think is where it is listed, maybe just search on keyword keyless ? )
If you have 2 keys dead, and 2 that are problematic, best just to replace the keypad.
There is some work to getting to the door ( think Jack has a technical Article / how to thread on the Jimmy Jamers which would help ) to replace it.
- 7 and 9 could make doors lock, Took me three presses, but it worked.
- I could get the keypad to light up. Here's what happened:
When the keypad lit up, 1,5,7,9 were lit, 3 was not.
Pressing each key in sequence, here is the result:
9 - caused pad to light up.
7 - caused pad to light up, but was intermittent
5 - never lit pad
3 - never lit pad
1 - caused pad to light up, but was more tempermental that 7.
Like others have said, it is a torn rubber cover and moisture is getting in. I cleaned up the one on my wife's Expy and got the button to work after removing the oxidation, THEN, since I was able to use the factory code to open it I then programmed a custom code in that does NOT use the faulty key.
Now it doesn't matter if the oxidation returns. I don't use that key any more. Of course, if more tears occur, will have to replace it at some point in the future.
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