Glad to hear it is working now.

Hard to say why it functions correctly while the self test does not complete.

 

OK guys I've finally caught up some of the projects around here & am back to the cruise problem with my 2000 F-150.
As I posted before, the "Cruise" light came on after each segment but did not flash anything after the test was over. Also, at the end of the test I can hear a short click from the engine compartment but the cable does not move. I've checked both ends of the cable & both are intact, not broken or unhooked at the servo or throttle linkage. I have brake lights at all 3 places (rear brake lights & 3rd light on cab. I checked the recall wire with the blue tag & checked the wires for continuity & they are both good & the switch is not leaking. When I'm driving down the road I will press the cruise button & then the "Set" button, the "Cruise" light comes on but it will not set or hold the speed. What am I missing or do I just need to bite the bullet & get a new servo?
Thanks

chuck

 

Chuck,
My cruise control problem had exactly the same symptom as yours - the cruise light would come on when I hit the 'set" button at highway speed, but the truck would not hold the speed. Also, my truck would not complete the self test. Assuming your 2000 is exactly the same as my 2002, I would perform one more test before investing in a replacement servo, and that would be to perform a sanity test at the servo connector itself to eliminate any sort of wiring problem. I verified that I had +12v at pin 7 with the in the "run" position. I then tested the Brake Pressure Switch input on pin 9. I had +12v until I stepped on the , and then it dropped to 0v. I then checked the operation of the on pin 4. I had 0v there until I stepped on the brake pedal at which time I saw +12V. I put an ohm meter across pins 5 and 6 and measured 2200 ohms when I pressed Resume, 681 ohms when I pressed , and 122 ohms when I pressed Coast. I then connected the ohm meter pin 5 and ground and got 1 ohm when I pressed the Off switch. Since all the inputs appeared good right at the , I concluded the unit was bad. I took a gamble on a used servo off of Ebay paying only $26. I replaced the servo unit and I now have a working cruise control again.

 

Sounds like I'll have something to do tomorrow.
Thanks

chuck

 

OK, finally had time to finish my cruise control problem. As you all know it passed the light test except when it was supposed to pull the throttle open it just clicked but didn't move. I did some of the other tests you guys provided me with but it was all good. Since in the first test it only clicked instead of pulling on the throttle I bit the bullet & got a servo off eBay for $25.00 instead of the dealer prices. After I install it I retested the switches & after the last switch was tested I could hear the servo pull the throttle. I road tested it & was very happy when it held the speed & has been working great ever since.
Thanks guys

chuck

 

Hello all,
2003 F-150 XL, 4.6L V-8 .Thanks for all the great information trying to fix my cruise control. I also had a bad deactivation switch on the master cylinder (fluid leaking into the connector plug). My truck must have been modified at the factory when produced because the connector was not the old style that required the new jumper cable. It had the correct connector being plugged into the switch and there is no inline fuse. After I changed the deactivation switch I was still getting 3 flashes when doing the test and no movement on the foot pedal.
I was not getting any power from the plug going into the deactivation switch. I checked all the fuses listed here and in other forums Under hood #7, Cab - #5, #15, and #13, they all tested good. The center brake light wasn't working so I replaced the light bulbs and that had no effect.
For the life of me, I couldn't figure out where the deactivation switch is supposed to get it's power from. It is not listed in the owner's manual and I never saw any reference to it online. After checking every fuse in the engine compartment I found the fuse #17 (2amp) was blown, changed that out with a 5 amp (the smallest I had) and now I have power at the disconnect switch and the test runs good with movement and everything. According the owners manual #17 is "not used".
I hope this helps anyone trying the gets their truck fixed and thanks again.

 

Sounds like you have a late-production '03.

Download a copy of the owner's manual for the '04 "Heritage" which were basically leftover or late run '03 models. Link is in my signature.

Yes, BJB fuse F17 supplies the de-activator switch in that version.