Mirrors, drivers seat and pedal not working
#1
Mirrors, drivers seat and pedal not working
My drivers seat, the pedal adjustment and the mirrors are not working. I checked the fuse #3 and fuse #109 and both are good and working. I am not sure where else to look to find the problem? Any suggestions or anyone else have this problem? Please help!!!
Thanks Jeff
2006 F-150 King Ranch Screw
5.4
Borla Exhaust
Thanks Jeff
2006 F-150 King Ranch Screw
5.4
Borla Exhaust
#2
My drivers seat, the pedal adjustment and the mirrors are not working. I checked the fuse #3 and fuse #109 and both are good and working. I am not sure where else to look to find the problem? Any suggestions or anyone else have this problem? Please help!!!
Thanks Jeff
2006 F-150 King Ranch Screw
5.4
Borla Exhaust
Thanks Jeff
2006 F-150 King Ranch Screw
5.4
Borla Exhaust
#3
I looked at all the connections under the seat, everything appears to be tight. I pulled the drivers door sill off and looked at some of the wires. They all appear to be ok, doesn't appear to have any water damage from and leaks. The fuses are all ok. REally starting to suck that I can't adjust anything I want. Anyone have any suggestions on where else to look or have had this problem and got it fixed? I am going to be parking it soon and drive my 99 f150 ext. cab for the winter to keep the salt off it.
#5
#7
I agree, this is best posted in the Electrical Forum and I'll move it there. My wiring diagrams for the '05 show fuse #16 as having something to do with the pedals too, but no fuse seems to be common to the mirror, seats and pedals.
My guess is, it's a wiring problem and I'd pull the door sill and check the wire bundle under it for signs of corrosion or cover damage. The electrical forum has several threads on problems caused by damage to the wires there and that's where I'd look.
- Jack
My guess is, it's a wiring problem and I'd pull the door sill and check the wire bundle under it for signs of corrosion or cover damage. The electrical forum has several threads on problems caused by damage to the wires there and that's where I'd look.
- Jack
Trending Topics
#8
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Under the flightpath of old ORD 22R
Posts: 10,511
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes
on
7 Posts
Jack would be a winner here with the suggestion
https://www.f150online.com/forums/el...door-open.html
The location changes, and I have a read a post or 2 that change the color code on the wire, but I would not bet on that.
Start at the driver's side C-pillar area, just where the wire turns up out of the door sill.
In the thread, you can see one splice was at the front, almost by the hood release, so no telling where it is for sure ( MY and build location seem to be the variables in this ).
https://www.f150online.com/forums/el...door-open.html
The location changes, and I have a read a post or 2 that change the color code on the wire, but I would not bet on that.
Start at the driver's side C-pillar area, just where the wire turns up out of the door sill.
In the thread, you can see one splice was at the front, almost by the hood release, so no telling where it is for sure ( MY and build location seem to be the variables in this ).
#9
I found the problem this weekend. I had to remove the passanger side kick panel and door sill. There is a wire that has a factory connector that was corroded for water in the wiring channel. It is an orange wire with a light green strip. It is located under the fuse box just as the wires go into the door sill area, and is at the bottom of the bundle of wires. I was able to pull the wire apart, i trimmed the wires and reconnected them with a connector and also used a heat shrink tube to try and help protect it. Now everything is working as its suppose to.
I just want to thank everyone for there help.
I just want to thank everyone for there help.
The following users liked this post:
#10
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Under the flightpath of old ORD 22R
Posts: 10,511
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes
on
7 Posts
Thank you for posting the results, this is missing too much in threads.
What you have found ( from what I can tell from the EVTM ) is the Orange w/ Light green stripe wire is Circuit 956, which is in pin 7 of Connector C270J. From this connector to the splice to the seat, there are no additional Connectors.
From the Central Junction Box, this is fuse F3, and is the VBATT input on the Driver Seat Module, connector C341A.
Splice S345 is also after C270J, which routes to C2095 ( if equipped ) and to Connector C527, pin 1 at the Power mirror switch.
Fuse F3 is listed as : Power mirrors, Memory seats and pedals
This is another case, that is similar to the thread above, but another circuit and location to check on. The difference seems to be the door open part ( I should have taken better note of that ), that is a symptom in the above thread.
Thank you again for the follow up information, the next member will thank you for this
Keywords:
Power seat
Power mirror
power adjustable pedals
F3 Fuse 3
F109 Fuse 109
Circuit 956
Passenger side door sill water
corroded corrode
Door open radio shut shuts off OK
What you have found ( from what I can tell from the EVTM ) is the Orange w/ Light green stripe wire is Circuit 956, which is in pin 7 of Connector C270J. From this connector to the splice to the seat, there are no additional Connectors.
From the Central Junction Box, this is fuse F3, and is the VBATT input on the Driver Seat Module, connector C341A.
Splice S345 is also after C270J, which routes to C2095 ( if equipped ) and to Connector C527, pin 1 at the Power mirror switch.
Fuse F3 is listed as : Power mirrors, Memory seats and pedals
This is another case, that is similar to the thread above, but another circuit and location to check on. The difference seems to be the door open part ( I should have taken better note of that ), that is a symptom in the above thread.
Thank you again for the follow up information, the next member will thank you for this
Keywords:
Power seat
Power mirror
power adjustable pedals
F3 Fuse 3
F109 Fuse 109
Circuit 956
Passenger side door sill water
corroded corrode
Door open radio shut shuts off OK
#11
Thank you for posting the results, this is missing too much in threads.
What you have found ( from what I can tell from the EVTM ) is the Orange w/ Light green stripe wire is Circuit 956, which is in pin 7 of Connector C270J. From this connector to the splice to the seat, there are no additional Connectors.
From the Central Junction Box, this is fuse F3, and is the VBATT input on the Driver Seat Module, connector C341A.
Splice S345 is also after C270J, which routes to C2095 ( if equipped ) and to Connector C527, pin 1 at the Power mirror switch.
Fuse F3 is listed as : Power mirrors, Memory seats and pedals
This is another case, that is similar to the thread above, but another circuit and location to check on. The difference seems to be the door open part ( I should have taken better note of that ), that is a symptom in the above thread.
Thank you again for the follow up information, the next member will thank you for this
Keywords:
Power seat
Power mirror
power adjustable pedals
F3 Fuse 3
F109 Fuse 109
Circuit 956
Passenger side door sill water
corroded corrode
Door open radio shut shuts off OK
What you have found ( from what I can tell from the EVTM ) is the Orange w/ Light green stripe wire is Circuit 956, which is in pin 7 of Connector C270J. From this connector to the splice to the seat, there are no additional Connectors.
From the Central Junction Box, this is fuse F3, and is the VBATT input on the Driver Seat Module, connector C341A.
Splice S345 is also after C270J, which routes to C2095 ( if equipped ) and to Connector C527, pin 1 at the Power mirror switch.
Fuse F3 is listed as : Power mirrors, Memory seats and pedals
This is another case, that is similar to the thread above, but another circuit and location to check on. The difference seems to be the door open part ( I should have taken better note of that ), that is a symptom in the above thread.
Thank you again for the follow up information, the next member will thank you for this
Keywords:
Power seat
Power mirror
power adjustable pedals
F3 Fuse 3
F109 Fuse 109
Circuit 956
Passenger side door sill water
corroded corrode
Door open radio shut shuts off OK
- Jack
The following users liked this post:
#12
I would also like to thank JTB 06KingRanch as I just had the same problem arise on my 2005 Lariat. I also checked the same fuses (both good) and was hoping I would find my answer here. Very much appreciated. My wife was going to have to strap blocks of wood to her shoes if she wanted to use the truck. Hey, wait a minute, maybe I don't want to fix it.
#13
Well, I got my mirrors, pedals, and seat working again thanks to this thread. The offending splice is a 3-way splice with the infamous friction tape covering. I couldn't put it apart with the tape on it but as I unwrapped the tape the green powder started dropping on the floor and then it fell apart. I took the wife to a movie a couple weeks ago and she still had most of her monster size diet Coke with her after the movie so she brought it with her. We weren't even out of the parking lot and it tipped over. It was late when we got home so the next morning I went out to wet vac it all out. To my surprise the carpet felt dry but I vacumed it out anyway. Guess where that Coke has been hiding for the last two and a half weeks. You guessed it. In the wire trough and in the padding under the carpet. With much sponging and a hair dryer going I got it dryed out. I told her tonight, no more drinks in the truck for her. Here is a picture of the completed splice.
I too used a piece of heat shrink tubing to help seal it but since it is a Y-splice the water could still migrate up between the double wire end. I couldn't find tubing with the mastic that melts around the wires as you heat it so this will have to do for now. Thanks again to all for this thread. My friends all think I am some kind of master mechanic but I just tell them I know where to look for the answers.
Thanks again!
I too used a piece of heat shrink tubing to help seal it but since it is a Y-splice the water could still migrate up between the double wire end. I couldn't find tubing with the mastic that melts around the wires as you heat it so this will have to do for now. Thanks again to all for this thread. My friends all think I am some kind of master mechanic but I just tell them I know where to look for the answers.
Thanks again!
#14
Thanks!
I registered just to say thanks for the great info!
My problem was multistaged.
I bought the truck used. After a heavy rain
I saw some water dripping off the back of the roof liner...turns out the 3rd brakelight had a seal that had pushed inward allowing all water draining off the roof to drop directly into the cab behind the seats. Parked on a slight incline...this led to a lot of water draining into the cab, and buying used probably for awhile. Oddly the truck didn't have a musty smell so it must have been fairly recent
I fixed this with some weather stripping to create a new gasket, dried out the rear where the water was.
A few days later the seat wouldn't adjust...then I noticed the pedals. Google brought me here.
The inputs from JTB 06KingRanch totally shortened my troubleshooting by hours if not days. I went right to the problem and fixed it.
I guess the water from the back went into the door channel and travelled to the front where it led to the corrosion.
Thanks again! Since I am registered...might have to post a question about a new grill
My problem was multistaged.
I bought the truck used. After a heavy rain
I saw some water dripping off the back of the roof liner...turns out the 3rd brakelight had a seal that had pushed inward allowing all water draining off the roof to drop directly into the cab behind the seats. Parked on a slight incline...this led to a lot of water draining into the cab, and buying used probably for awhile. Oddly the truck didn't have a musty smell so it must have been fairly recent
I fixed this with some weather stripping to create a new gasket, dried out the rear where the water was.
A few days later the seat wouldn't adjust...then I noticed the pedals. Google brought me here.
The inputs from JTB 06KingRanch totally shortened my troubleshooting by hours if not days. I went right to the problem and fixed it.
I guess the water from the back went into the door channel and travelled to the front where it led to the corrosion.
Thanks again! Since I am registered...might have to post a question about a new grill
#15
Power drivers seat, power gas/brake pedal and power side view mirrors inop!!!
First I want to say hi to everyone since I am a newbee.
I am the original owner of this 2004 f150 4x4 crew cab lariat. My problem started with the side mirrors no longer working. I went to the fuse and it had not blown. NOT GOOD, I am thinking.
Later my driver side seat quit. I then tried to adjust my pedals and they also had quit. Again I checked the appropriate fuses and they were again GOOD. WOW!!!!!
I found the factory service electrical wiring manual on E-bay and ordered one. Its on the way. Last night I went to this web site and found out I was not the only cowboy with this problem.
Sure enough, thanks to some members on here it led me to the passenger side. I removed the door floor plate and side kick plates that cover the fuse box.
I was surprise to see water in the trench where the wiring laid. Sure enough there were those three wires, two on one side completely separated from the other. Both ends had a cloth type black tape. What I would use as friction tape. Looking at my situation this connection which was on the very bottom of the wiring had been soaking under water. For how long who knows. The connection had corroded apart. Looking at the two ends both had green goop on them. The only reason why the fuse did not open is because that wire was just high enough not to contact the water and create a direct short which would have blow the fuse after it separated.
So now I have hopefully found the problem. However I have a water intrusion problem as well.
After removing about 16 oz of water, well maybe slightly less, but not much less, I repaired the connection by cutting back enough of the wire to get past the corrosion, stripping back insulation, installing heat shrink and soldering the connection to a jumper to get it back to its original length. No cold solder connections here. Finally using the hair blower shrunk tubing around connection.
FINAL TEST SAT!!!!
I later did the water test on my windshield with my hose and sure enough the leak showed up coming down on the ride side firewall. Once I get this fixed my water solution should be taken care of.
Just want to say I would have never know about this leak if it had not been for the electrical problems.
Again thanks for all the info and hope I can help others as much as I have been helped here.
Many thanks SP357!!!!!
I am the original owner of this 2004 f150 4x4 crew cab lariat. My problem started with the side mirrors no longer working. I went to the fuse and it had not blown. NOT GOOD, I am thinking.
Later my driver side seat quit. I then tried to adjust my pedals and they also had quit. Again I checked the appropriate fuses and they were again GOOD. WOW!!!!!
I found the factory service electrical wiring manual on E-bay and ordered one. Its on the way. Last night I went to this web site and found out I was not the only cowboy with this problem.
Sure enough, thanks to some members on here it led me to the passenger side. I removed the door floor plate and side kick plates that cover the fuse box.
I was surprise to see water in the trench where the wiring laid. Sure enough there were those three wires, two on one side completely separated from the other. Both ends had a cloth type black tape. What I would use as friction tape. Looking at my situation this connection which was on the very bottom of the wiring had been soaking under water. For how long who knows. The connection had corroded apart. Looking at the two ends both had green goop on them. The only reason why the fuse did not open is because that wire was just high enough not to contact the water and create a direct short which would have blow the fuse after it separated.
So now I have hopefully found the problem. However I have a water intrusion problem as well.
After removing about 16 oz of water, well maybe slightly less, but not much less, I repaired the connection by cutting back enough of the wire to get past the corrosion, stripping back insulation, installing heat shrink and soldering the connection to a jumper to get it back to its original length. No cold solder connections here. Finally using the hair blower shrunk tubing around connection.
FINAL TEST SAT!!!!
I later did the water test on my windshield with my hose and sure enough the leak showed up coming down on the ride side firewall. Once I get this fixed my water solution should be taken care of.
Just want to say I would have never know about this leak if it had not been for the electrical problems.
Again thanks for all the info and hope I can help others as much as I have been helped here.
Many thanks SP357!!!!!