Headlights, taillights won't turn off
#1
Headlights, taillights won't turn off
Hi All,
2001 F150 superCrew in the U.S. Headlights and taillights will not turn off, even when switched off and ignition off. "Clicking sound" (similar to auto-lights sound) somewhere in the dash, behind the radio near as I can tell. Known rain leaks for several years from the sunroof ever since the "bracket" broke and dealer, etc. did not want to fix it. I did remove the "high beam" fuse (even tho that's not the problem) under the dash, but I cannot find the fuse box in the engine compartment (to try headlight fuses, etc.). Battery negative cable currently disconnected, so battery doesn't drain.
I'm more than happy to take it to dealer (because this is my daily driver and needs to be reliable), but looking here for a "roadmap" so hopefully I can drive away fixed from dealer around $150 instead of $500+.
So, I guess I'm asking:
1. Where is the fuxebox in the engine compartment (so I can try some things myself)?
2. Any advice re: how I can "manage" the dealer repair experience, so I don't get hit with a $500+ bill?
Many thanks.
2001 F150 superCrew in the U.S. Headlights and taillights will not turn off, even when switched off and ignition off. "Clicking sound" (similar to auto-lights sound) somewhere in the dash, behind the radio near as I can tell. Known rain leaks for several years from the sunroof ever since the "bracket" broke and dealer, etc. did not want to fix it. I did remove the "high beam" fuse (even tho that's not the problem) under the dash, but I cannot find the fuse box in the engine compartment (to try headlight fuses, etc.). Battery negative cable currently disconnected, so battery doesn't drain.
I'm more than happy to take it to dealer (because this is my daily driver and needs to be reliable), but looking here for a "roadmap" so hopefully I can drive away fixed from dealer around $150 instead of $500+.
So, I guess I'm asking:
1. Where is the fuxebox in the engine compartment (so I can try some things myself)?
2. Any advice re: how I can "manage" the dealer repair experience, so I don't get hit with a $500+ bill?
Many thanks.
Last edited by philman; 09-20-2009 at 10:22 PM.
#2
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Under the flightpath of old ORD 22R
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Here is a picture of the Battery Junction Box ( aka BJB, Engine Comaprtment fuse panel ) on a 1998 MY truck.
Same place, I think the orientation is rotated 90* ( been a few years, cannot recall ) and the aux relay box and the engine mini fuse panel will not be there on a 99+ MY truck
If you have an issue with leaking, check the GEM ( bolted to the back of the cab fuse panel ) for signs of water damage. This could be in the form of wet carpet on the firewall at the edge, or signs of water damage around the GEM / Cab fuse panel.
There is a case of leaking windshields ( lower left hand corner ) that caused the GEM to cab fuse panel connections to have corrosion and cause strange problems. Might want to check this area / dry out the cab ( if you had some rain as of late ).
Fixing the leak in the windshield is easy, just removing it and resealing it after cleaning the channel.
Same place, I think the orientation is rotated 90* ( been a few years, cannot recall ) and the aux relay box and the engine mini fuse panel will not be there on a 99+ MY truck
If you have an issue with leaking, check the GEM ( bolted to the back of the cab fuse panel ) for signs of water damage. This could be in the form of wet carpet on the firewall at the edge, or signs of water damage around the GEM / Cab fuse panel.
There is a case of leaking windshields ( lower left hand corner ) that caused the GEM to cab fuse panel connections to have corrosion and cause strange problems. Might want to check this area / dry out the cab ( if you had some rain as of late ).
Fixing the leak in the windshield is easy, just removing it and resealing it after cleaning the channel.
#3
#4
Update - by the Grace of G*d, just leaving the battery cable disconnected overnight has somehow allowed the computers (or maybe the wires dried out, or whatever) to "restore" to a working state. Several days now of reliable service, lights behaving normally. Also, I noticed that the sunroof rain leak drips directly on/into the light switch. So, plan now is examine "carpet, firewall, GEM, etc. for water damage" (as SScully said), and then if not that, then take it to dealer, have them inspect/replace light switch, and examine related wires in dash for corrosion, etc. Thanks again SScully.
Last edited by philman; 09-25-2009 at 03:41 PM.
#5
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Under the flightpath of old ORD 22R
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Try to get the Windshield resealed and if nothing else, clear 3M duct tape the sunroof around the edges, to try to stave off water.
This would give the GEM / CJB a chance to dry out, and could be OK.
I have seen posts of USD$ 900 for CJB / GEM work, when confirmed as a leaking windshield.
Might be worth the 100.00 or so for a windshield reseal, and the 5.00 for a roll of clear duct tape to see if this is what is going on.
This would give the GEM / CJB a chance to dry out, and could be OK.
I have seen posts of USD$ 900 for CJB / GEM work, when confirmed as a leaking windshield.
Might be worth the 100.00 or so for a windshield reseal, and the 5.00 for a roll of clear duct tape to see if this is what is going on.
#6
Try to get the Windshield resealed and if nothing else, clear 3M duct tape the sunroof around the edges, to try to stave off water.
This would give the GEM / CJB a chance to dry out, and could be OK.
I have seen posts of USD$ 900 for CJB / GEM work, when confirmed as a leaking windshield.
Might be worth the 100.00 or so for a windshield reseal, and the 5.00 for a roll of clear duct tape to see if this is what is going on.
This would give the GEM / CJB a chance to dry out, and could be OK.
I have seen posts of USD$ 900 for CJB / GEM work, when confirmed as a leaking windshield.
Might be worth the 100.00 or so for a windshield reseal, and the 5.00 for a roll of clear duct tape to see if this is what is going on.
These solid state electronics don't like to be wet, but water doesn't really seem to cause the permanent damage that it used to do to older systems. I think they use materials in them that are fairly corrosion and rot proof. If it's dry and you can keep it dry, I'd be willing to bet on a long, happy, useful life for those components.
- Jack