Jack- I looked for the starter that I spoke about earlier and indeed I evidently deep-sixed it. I did come across a very good layout with a LOT of pictures (not a lot of deep explanation), that I'm sure will give you a better understanding of the inner workings of a late Ford starter than you ever wanted. At least I did learn something from it. There is a splined shaft that the "one-way roller ramp clutch" is thrown in on (actually pushed in on the splined shaft). The purpose of both of these (splined shaft and RR clutch) is to make a smooth transition in disengagement when the engine starts and the starter gear needs to get out of the way in a hurry. The rollers in fact are held by spring pressure against the inner clutch surface and the smooth outer gear surface, ready for action and once the starter is energized, held additionally by centrifugal force (solid in the direction of travel but the rollers release when the engine starts and the RPM quickly exceeds the starter speed) I still am not exactly sure what caused the OP's "starter run but not engaged" condition. When you see the pictures, you'll understand why there are several things it could potentially be. It was a good day Jack- I think we both learned something.
If you click on the picture you enlarge. If you click on that picture, you'll still be able to see it when you reach 100!

http://www.p71interceptor.com/starter/disassembled/

 

I didn't think the solenoid could likely be replaced with the starter in the truck. From what I remember, it was very tight quarters.

 

if the screws were not so ridiculously tight it wouldn't be too bad. You can get a philips on it with a ratchet, however its tough to get enough push on the screws to avoid stripping them out.

I found it just easier to rip the whole starter out. Once you've done it once, the second time is significantly quicker. That third top bolt is a bear though. Cant see it!

"Mechanics by the Braile Method" I've always said. a little feel and some bloody knuckles and you are good to go

I'll try to get a couple of pictures for the masses when I get home tonight to show what we are talking about.

 

Nice link, Code!

I can even see it all right now without magnification! Guess I've got a couple good years left.

It was terminology that tripped me up wasn't it? I see I should have been referring to a "clutch" mechanism, but my feeble old brain just got locked on "Bendix".

I feel it's likely the clutch mechanism did not engage so that the starter spun freely. Broken/weak springs on the rollers perhaps? Or, maybe just an accumulation of "crud"?

I also notice at the bottom of that link that, "ford does not service starter parts individually, and your local ford dealership will only sell you a complete rebuilt starter assembly." Of course that may not apply to a parts store like Autozone.

I agree, with you. I certainly learned something about starters from this. Hope I never have to duplicate mrolgren's achievement!

- Jack

 

x2 Jack!!!

 

Jack- it's entirely possible that some of the springs broke, or who knows what. There are a number of things that could fail and cause that problem. Since they went to geared starters they are a great deal more complex than they used to be. I didn't even realize they were geared, the planetary hides the fact that they are geared. The 1st ones I remember that were geared were Chrysler Corp. vehicles, I think about 45 yrs. ago. I believe they were "side by side", not planetary.
The "clutch" is actually engaged all the time and only "disengages" when the engine starts, to enable it to get the heck out of the way. I could be wrong, but the GM starters of the '50's and beyond were the 1st I am aware of that used the solenoid engagement and I think they pushed straight in, without any of the advantages of the rapid disengagement design this starter has. Much less sophisticated. I'm sure someone will correct me if that is incorrect, as it may be. Been way too long since I worked on one.

 

No, I think you're right about how it works. I've been giving it some thought (always a dangerous thing to do) and it seems to me to work something like this:

The solenoid starts moving and the forked lever pushes the pinion gear out along the shaft into the ring gear. The "spiral" track on the shaft allows the pinion to rotate in case it is not aligned properly with the ring gear teeth. As it finally slips into position, the electrical contactors in the solenoid close, giving power to the starter and it begins to spin. At this point, starter speed is slow and the clutch is locked.

Now, the engine starts and the ring gear starts moving much faster, which also allows the starter to rotate very fast since there's no longer any load on it. The rollers move down the ramps against the springs due to centrifugal force and the clutch disengages.

Releasing the key allows the spring return in the solenoid to "snap" the pinion gear away from the ring gear while the starter is still spinning.

Pretty clever device, I think. Hope we haven't bored everyone silly! :o And, if I got any of this wrong, I'm happy to be corrected.

- Jack

 

Ok, my 2006 with 112K miles is now doing this more often then not. The starter engages, starts the motor, then does not disengage. You can still hear the starter engaged and turning with the motor. About 20 seconds later it finally releases.

So is my best bet to just replace the whole starter since the solenoid is part of the assembly as well?

 

Ok so I'm sitting in friends 07. What my problem is truck been sitting over winter. Go to start and relay clicks but nothing from starter. Leave key in run get under and jump starter fires right up with no problem. Turn off and try restarting and nothing. Again jump starter fires right up? ? ? What you all think?

 

Bad firewall relay.

 

I have switched the relays around. Nothing had changed. Is there a relay I don't know about?

 

Okay, I was wrong. Ford apparently did away with the firewall relay several years ago. It's possibly the solenoid on the starter.

 

That's what I don't get if it's that relay then why does it let me jump the Leeds and it works

 

What relay is clicking ?

The starter motor relay ( firewall relay posted above ) is now in the fuse panel in the truck. It is relay R01, full size relay.

If there is an issue with this relay, jumping around it will cause the truck to start.

 

Ok, so I am having the same issue with my 2007 5.4. Starter spins but won't engage. I put in a new starter, and it is getting worse. I can put it in neutral and it will crank, not sure what that means. The only solenoid I can see is on the starter. Is there one on the firewall behind the battery?