just wait 6 months for the 75watt kit to come out then we'll see brightnes there is not much difference between the 55 watt and 35 watt kit i've put one 55watt beside a 35 watt and there was really not much difference.
What a waste, 35w is plenty of glare, 55w is unnecessary, and 75w is retarded in HIDs.
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PHP Gryphon, 2.5" AS level, Strobes on all 4 corners, Black TS Toolbox, 15% tint all around, Pioneer AVH-P4100 with Low_e_red's relay bypass, MA Audio 1000w RMS 1 ohm amp pushing 2 - 10" ED subs under the rear seat, Viper 5901 with 530T auto up/down windows, Viair 380c at 165/200 PSI in a 3 gal tank pushing 1/2" DOT airline to my Siege Engineering train horns, and Beltronics RX 65 pro to keep me out of trouble
It would be more like different materials or special heat sinks or venting. Possibly all of the above. But, an OEM housing may not be suitable for a 55 Watt HID light.
- Jack
The stock housings probably won't melt. However, your stock wiring might if it isn't run through a relay. The HIG's require 26,000V to start up, something that your stock wiring isn't set up for. You'll want to run a switched relay directly from the battery and use the stock wiring as the switch.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 4play2008
just wait 6 months for the 75watt kit to come out ...
Where did you read this? 35W HID's are legal in an OEM set up. 55W, 75W and up, are meant for aircraft applications and are dangerous to other drivers on the road.
HIG kit bulbs tend to run with less efficiency, so a 35W bulb is usually around 2900 Lumens, definitely not their advertised 3500 Lumens. These quotes are all based on 4300K bulb colour temperature. 6000K and higher will be less.
The stock housings probably won't melt. However, your stock wiring might if it isn't run through a relay. The HIG's require 26,000V to start up, something that your stock wiring isn't set up for. You'll want to run a switched relay directly from the battery and use the stock wiring as the switch.
Where did you read this? 35W HID's are legal in an OEM set up. 55W, 75W and up, are meant for aircraft applications and are dangerous to other drivers on the road.
HIG kit bulbs tend to run with less efficiency, so a 35W bulb is usually around 2900 Lumens, definitely not their advertised 3500 Lumens. These quotes are all based on 4300K bulb colour temperature. 6000K and higher will be less.
doesnt the HIDs have their own harness to run power not the stock harness? all the stock harness does is, it tells the lights when to turn on and off...
That's what is referred to as a "relay kit." Some kits include them, others (usually the cheaper ones) don't, although you can always put one in.
Exactly true, I know a guy who has a Titan (that is why I don't call him a friend, lol) and one of his lights ignited and then flickers. He does not have any way to connect to the battery, it is all plug and play. I politely explained why he is an idiot and told him to get a relay on that mofo. At least he had them in those china projectors that look like something from a Terminator movie, keeps the glare down a little.
the kit im looking at is a full kit. theres only one part that hooks to the stock harness and thats on the pass. side. the only thing left would be if the 55W would melt my housings. any way to prevent this besides getting the 35w?
Why is it so important to get 55w? Save the money so when the cheap china kit gives out in 2 months to 2 years you can afford another set. You don't want to be too long without all that glare when they do die, so having an extra $20 or whatever the difference is will help for the next set.
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PHP Gryphon, 2.5" AS level, Strobes on all 4 corners, Black TS Toolbox, 15% tint all around, Pioneer AVH-P4100 with Low_e_red's relay bypass, MA Audio 1000w RMS 1 ohm amp pushing 2 - 10" ED subs under the rear seat, Viper 5901 with 530T auto up/down windows, Viair 380c at 165/200 PSI in a 3 gal tank pushing 1/2" DOT airline to my Siege Engineering train horns, and Beltronics RX 65 pro to keep me out of trouble
HIDs generate less heat than halogen bulbs. You can Google all this information.
A 55W HID bulb will produce less heat than a 55W Halogen bulb. An enclosure that handles a 55W halogen bulb *should* be able to handle a 55W HID bulb.
As to whether you want a 55W bulb, that's another question. I think a 55W bulb in the stock headlamps will produce way too much glare which could impact oncoming traffic. OTOH, I used 55W HID bulbs in my aux driving lights, but those are a specific application and won't be used during normal driving conditions.
I would stick to 35W for stock headlight replacement and save yourself a little bit of money.
The look it to me. No reason to pay so much for non OEM bulbs and ballasts. I will give them the benefit of the doubt that they may have a better product than random EBAY guy, but still look the same as $50 kits. They seem more legit at least, lol. I am not saying China kits are bad, I had a set in my Ranger when I had OEM Infinity FX projectors modded in to control the output of light. They worked and worked well. The glare comes from the housing, not the light/ballast itself. So if you are going to choose to do a drip-in kit and send off massive glare, cheap kits are fine. R-S says it has a lifetime warranty, so what is that worth? Not sure.
Retro Solutions stuff comes with a lifetime warranty, first of all (probably worth the extra money). Secondly, their ballasts and bulbs are supposed to be made in Germany and not China (mine say Germany, this could be a lie, but usually the dept of commerce picks up on that sort of thing...).
Retro Solutions seems more legit because not only are they based in the US, but they give their address and a phone number for contact. Heck, that would be worth it right there.
The look it to me. No reason to pay so much for non OEM bulbs and ballasts. I will give them the benefit of the doubt that they may have a better product than random EBAY guy, but still look the same as $50 kits. They seem more legit at least, lol. I am not saying China kits are bad, I had a set in my Ranger when I had OEM Infinity FX projectors modded in to control the output of light. They worked and worked well. The glare comes from the housing, not the light/ballast itself. So if you are going to choose to do a drip-in kit and send off massive glare, cheap kits are fine. R-S says it has a lifetime warranty, so what is that worth? Not sure.
wow you really seem to be against any HID kit. my fog lights put out more light than my headlights. I want something bright for ME. I dont really care about the glare since it wont effect me, and several people have them and yes they are glarey, even to me in a truck. I think ill go with the 55W kit, and the 5000k color, so its not even got that blue glare.
wow you really seem to be against any HID kit. my fog lights put out more light than my headlights. I want something bright for ME. I dont really care about the glare since it wont effect me, and several people have them and yes they are glarey, even to me in a truck. I think ill go with the 55W kit, and the 5000k color, so its not even got that blue glare.
first of all, your foglights do not have glare shields on them, so that is why they seem to put out more light.
secondly, if you dont care about anyone else, that is going to land you a ticket. i personally know several cops around here and they are fine with HIDs but if they have too much glare or are pointed up, they will either make you rip them out right there on the spot or write you a ticket. and the color has nothing to do with it. getting glare from a 10,000K HID kit is better than a 5000K HID kit because of the more lumens you are putting out. that plus an extra 20W is overkill, especially in a truck. secondly, that is plain STUPID. if you blind an oncoming driver with your $90 HIDs, they are going to hit your $20,000+ truck. believe me, i am with a VFD and ive responded to several accidents because some young kid has HIDs in stock housings, not lowered or anything and ends up in a head-on collision...
well Im not going to aim them up, that would just be stupid. and im sure theyre not going to be so bright people will lose control of their cars....but thank you for your concern.
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