I am trying to fix my old F-150 up for my 16 year old son to drive. The problem is all the gauges in the instrument panel quit working one day last week. I have checked all the fuses that I can find and I can't seem to find a fuse that might control the panel. Do you guys have any ideas as to where my son and I can start looking for the problem. Thanks in advance for the help!

 

Need to clarify something with the post.

The speedometer, tachometer ( if equip'd ) and odometer stopped working also ?

Also, is this inclusive to the fuel, oil pressure, and coolant temp ?

I need to check, but I thought '97 was still the old speedo cable input, and the odometer is the old wheel type ( 99 brought about the digital odometer ).

The other gauges are PCM inputs, which could be the connector on the back of the cluster, but I wanted to verify some items prior to having you tear into stuff.

 

Yes you are correct, none of the gauges are working. The speedometer, tachometer, oil pressure, fuel, temp, and odometer (not digital) all quit working. The light comes on in the panel when lights are on but none of the gauges work.

 

Sorry for the delay.

Few other questions.

Q1. When you turn the run position, do the check engine, battery, seatbelt, brake lights come on

Q2. Have you checked the fuses #2 and #29 in the cab fuse panel ( central junction box or CJB )

The other questions have to do with having the cluster removed from the truck, so lets start with those 2.

 

Yes, when I turn on the key the indicator lights light up. I have tested all the fuses with a volt meter and have voltage passing through those fuses.

 

I put a visitor message on your UserCP yesterday.

Drop me an email via my profile. Need to get you the Instrument cluster test documentation ( 413-01 ). Where you are at, you need to pull the cluster, and I want you to have everything when you yank it, rather then having to check here all the time.

 

if you find your problem please post as i have the same problem and no radio but mine was in a garage fire and has smoke damage was just smoke no flames
tks

 

I have a 1998 F-150, and the Gas, Oil, Water Temp, RMP, and MPH aren't working. I have pulled all of the fuses that have to do with the panel and I have found out that the #29 Fuse is blown out. So i replace it and turn on the pick up and to no luck what so ever. it blew again. So any help or advice you have would be most thanked.

 

Chafed wiring harness at the shift lever. SEARCH keyword "F29"

Steve

 

Can you send me the Instrument cluster test documentation ( 413-01 )??
Ive done everything else but it !

1997 Ford Expedition XLT 4X4 4.6L

 

I have a 1997 F150 and spedo, tach, coolant, oil pressure, and fuel quit working all at once. Have checked fuses as well as disconnected battery, let sit, and reconnected to no avail. Lights and warning lights work, but 'needle' gauges do not.

 

Did you check the particular fuse I specified above?

 

Thanks, yes. I checked #2, #29, as well as every other fuse in the dash panel and the engine compartment panel. No luck - gauges still not working.

 

If the warning lights prove out properly at key-on and the power and ground connections to the cluster's circuit board are good, then the cluster's electronics have failed and the cluster will require repair or replacement.

 

I fixed this a while back but never posted the resolution - so here it is...

In my case, the instrument cluster outage was intermittant - woudl work sometimes, other times (mostly) not. All fuses and connections seemed good. Fuses checked several times, including those apparently unrelated to the cluster itself.

Then one day, the vehicle stopped starting. Turn the key to "accessories" and the ratio and lights would work. Then "start", there'd be an audible CLICK, then nothing. Radio and lights out, etc. Leave the vehicle for 5 - 1o minutes, the accessories would come back on, but "click" - everything would shut off again.

Started to check various connections, starting with the Battery and found the Positive battery cable fried. Replaced that with a splice kit, and EVERYTHING has been functioning as normal for months now.

Odd as it seems, it was clearly the battery cable that was causing the problem.