2004 F150 XLT Supercab-----hit the button yesterday for drivers side window---window went down in automatic mode as normal--when it stopped I heard 2 distinct pops---tried to put window up--only went up partially-then quit moving in either direction---was able to push window up fully by hand. Been looking through the threads here and have been able to find out how to remove the door panel via Door Panel Removal instructions of the Muth Signal Mirror. From what I have read the threads that are already here pertaining to power window problems are for different year trucks. On the 2004 F150 what am I looking for now that I have the panel removed. The motor does run but the framework holding the window does not move. Is the motor at fault even though it runs? (possible stripped gear?) If so how does the motor come out of the door? Do I have to drill access holes as described in one of the other threads? Any help very much appreciated-----thanks

 

Just joined this forum this morning because I had the same thing happen this AM to my 04 f150. I'm going to try to take the door panel off and see what's going on on my next day off, but any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

Exactly the same thing happened to me..........any luck with the door panel??

 

Well since none of the knowledgeable regulars answered any of us newbies requests for help in this matter????????????? I spent a few hours getting used to this site and finally found a thread under 2004 F150 about this very problem. Go to http://www.fordf150.net/articles/idx...or--Motor.html and you will get a pretty detailed write up on how to fix this problem. Pretty self explanatory but I took a few shortcuts---I did not remove window completely as described in the article. When you get to that step put window in up position---cut a block of wood 2 1/4" high X 3" long and put it into the cutout where door handle goes---I duct taped the wood in so it could not come out and let window fall down----then look in the 2 small oblong slots and you should see the clamps bolts that are holding the window----loosen these and the window will stay up against the block of wood----When reinstalling the new regulator loosen clamps as far as the screw will allow and spread the clamp apart---then run the regulator up under power slowly to be sure the window goes in between the clamps--tighten clamps and check for normal up/down operation----then continue with reassembly as described in article----Also after removing speaker you only have to remove the bottom 2 plastic studs that hold the speaker in---and you will probably break them as I did---my fix since the dealership did not stock them was to put plastic wall anchors in the 2 bottom holes using the broken plastic stud as a shim behind the speaker I just ran the screws thru the shim into the wall anchors and it worked fine--and it saved about $12 as the studs are only sold in packages of 4---the regulator cost me $181.74 + tax at a Ford dealership and I saved about $200.00 by doing it myself. This site is a hit as far as I'm concerned---just wished the regulars were bit more concerned about us newbies with leading us in the right direction with our problem as insignificant as it may seem. It was a real BIG problem for me until I finally found the info I needed

 

Sorry I didn't get back until now, but I did the same thing as the last grampoppop. The $187 price from the dealer was the same here, but it includes the regulator and new motor, so easy to swap out. The only thing I did different was to tape the window up with painters tape instead of using the block of wood, and I didn't have the speaker anchors break even though I removed them twice (just lucky I guess). Simple fix.

 

I'm just finishing up my window fix..........I replaced the motor and regulator mechanism. Really, it was pretty easy. Thanks to the pictures on some other posts, I was able to remove the inner door and get at the inside. Just make sure you tell the dealer OVER AND OVER which side you need. I swear I told him 4 times I needed the drivers side.........and what did I get?........passenger side.
The only trouble I'm having is getting the door molding back on the door. Mine is still not on, I need another set of hands.
I did keep the window up using painters tape, it worked great........you can then get at the window clamps (2) with a torq screwdriver. Unscrew the clamps and remove the 5 bolts for the motor assembly and you're done..........a bit of fanagaling and you can get the assembly out the rather small hole.
Now I just need a few tips on replacing the inner door molding!!!

Thanks everyone for the information and help!

 

daveap - About a year ago I took ALL the door panels off my SCrew to instal JimmiJammer anti-break in plates. I seem to recall a slight problem getting the front panels back on, but I don't really remember specifics.

As I remember though, the panel is lifted UP to get it off the door. It seems to me I inserted the top of the panel back into the window slot first, holding the panel itself away from the door and making sure the door lock button was up through the hole. Yes, it was awkward! Then, I think I let the panel swing back against the door and I pushed it in hard there before pushing it down. As I recall, there were downward facing hooks that had to go through holes in the door frame that capture the panel when it is pushed down.

Maybe you could verify this by looking at the backside of the panel and the door frame? Sorry I can't be more help, as I said, it was quite a while ago that I did this and my memory of it is hazy.

And, grampoppop, I'm sorry I didn't notice your post before. I DO remember at least one other post about replacing the window regulator and I probably could have located one of them by searching the forums for you.

I don't spend as much time in the Electrical forum as I do on some others. Please don't feel we ignored you because you're new, I don't think we do that.

- Jack

 

Got me how I missed this one also, but posts like that get one added to the ignore list.

I would say 85% or better are from new members with problems. The older member usually know how to use the search function, or recall seeing it before.
Oh well, to each their own, and the ignore list grows a bit larger...

 

Just a small update on the door......

It was the 2 lower speaker screw mounts, they were in the way. I do remember reading something about that. I removed them, door molding went back on no problem, then just re-installed the speaker mounts.

 

I just lowered my passenger window and started to raise it back up when I heard a low pop followed by what sounded like a kind of grinding as the window stopped moving. I was able to get it up by lifting it, but it is only staying there because of the friction from the door molding. There doesn't feel like anything internally is holding it up. Could this be the same problem all of you were having with the window motor/regulator? Thanks for your help

 

Thought I would quote one of the senior members here hoping to get some traction on this nagging issue:

Ok.. so my passenger front window won't go up or down (04 F150 XLT).. when it was working it was squeaking pretty badly and then it just stopped working. There were times when it wouldn't work but then come back to life. So I assumed the motor was burning out.

I replaced the motor this morning and it worked for a few minutes then stopped working again. I didn't replace the regulator however. I lubricated the rails thinking it would stop the squeaking but it didn't.

I can't roll it up or down with either drivers side button or passenger button. So now I'm curious.. is the squeaking a symptom of the regulator failing and considering the motor replacement didn't fix the problem and both switches aren't doing their job.. is it safe to say the regulator is the problem or am I missing something here? Is there a fuse or relay that controls each window (dumb question but I'm trying to identify all areas where there could an issue).

Thanks for the help as usual!

Ty

PS - I hate this truck lol... tooooo many problems!

 

Disconnect the power window motor at the pigtail ( there should be a 2 pin connector in the door about 6" to 8" from the motor ) and hook a digital voltage meter to the harness towards the switch.

Press the power window switch to the up position, the meter will show a value of VDC.
- Depending on which way the meter is hooked up, the first reading might be - VDC or + VDC

Press the power window switch to the down position, you should get the opposite polarity reading of the 1st value.
- e.g. If the switch up position was + 12.8 VDC, the down should be - 12.8 VDC.

If the voltage values show correct at the plug for the pigtail, the switch appears to be OK, and it is time to test the motor.
- I say appears, as it might be a motor load issue ( squeaking ) where the switch ( either Drivers or passengers ) could be having issues.

Use some 12 AWG wire from the battery or a different battery and apply power to the window motor itself, and see if the same symptoms show up.
- Squeaking and non operational.

If the motor does not operate the window, next is to pull the motor and test it stand alone to see if the same symptoms show up, or if it tests good.

If the motor stand alone tests good, that would point to the regulator.

 

Thanks SSCULLY

I tested the motor with it just plugged into the harness.. it will usually only go down regardless of which button (driver/passenger) I use. Periodically.. when I'm lucky it will go back up. I've tested the old motor and a new one. Same Symptoms.. 95% of the time it will only operate going down.

So I'm convinced it's not the motor and because this was done with the motor not attached to the regulator.. it's definitely not a regulator issue. Although I busted my regulator :/ so that needs replacing now lol..

So now I'm wondering .. is it switches.. and both of them at the same time? Or maybe it's specifically the driver side cluster that's causing the problem.

I will run through the voltage tests you've suggested and repost my findings.

Thanks
Ty

 

Interesting.. when I have the key turned on.. and using my voltage tester in the wiring harnesses for both driver and passenger window switches.. I get nothing. Which I find odd. I get a reading of 12.2(ish) for the window lock button hardness.

Honestly have zero clue what I'm looking for at this point and the window will only go down now. Not up. So I'm stuck with this damn window half way down.

I'd settle for a solution to get it up and leave it up until I've got more time to handle this. Right now I'm just too busy.

F150.. didn't think I was buying such a total lemon.. ugh

List of problems with this truck (all within the last 8 months):

Horrible front end vibration (replaced tie rods inner/outer.. not fixed).. still searching for the problem. Ball joints? warped rotors? Seized calipers? What else could be wrong? Warped drive shaft? I don't know..
Cam Phasers bad (ordering in lockout kit)..
Actuators both bad (replaced).
Window problem.. phantom electrical problem (motor is good, regulator brand new)
Spark plugs busting .. terrible engineering..

And I can't wait for my transmission to die on me next :P

 

Old response but when I bought my truck the windows wouldnt roll down (any of them) I was told to replace the window switch and that should fix the problem. Checked that out, still didnt work. Checked fuses, everything was good. Finally I was considering taking it to Ford and have them figure out what was wrong with it.

I read somewhere that if the Anti Theft system might need to be reset so it can reset the windows? Guess what it worked.

Maybe this might not fix your problem, but it might fix others.