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  #1  
Old 01-18-2009, 02:06 PM
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F150 Power Window Won't Go Up/Down.

2004 F150 XLT Supercab-----hit the button yesterday for drivers side window---window went down in automatic mode as normal--when it stopped I heard 2 distinct pops---tried to put window up--only went up partially-then quit moving in either direction---was able to push window up fully by hand. Been looking through the threads here and have been able to find out how to remove the door panel via Door Panel Removal instructions of the Muth Signal Mirror. From what I have read the threads that are already here pertaining to power window problems are for different year trucks. On the 2004 F150 what am I looking for now that I have the panel removed. The motor does run but the framework holding the window does not move. Is the motor at fault even though it runs? (possible stripped gear?) If so how does the motor come out of the door? Do I have to drill access holes as described in one of the other threads? Any help very much appreciated-----thanks
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  #2  
Old 01-19-2009, 12:09 PM
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Just joined this forum this morning because I had the same thing happen this AM to my 04 f150. I'm going to try to take the door panel off and see what's going on on my next day off, but any help would be greatly appreciated.
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  #3  
Old 01-20-2009, 02:22 PM
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Exactly the same thing happened to me..........any luck with the door panel??
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  #4  
Old 01-20-2009, 08:16 PM
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Well since none of the knowledgeable regulars answered any of us newbies requests for help in this matter????????????? I spent a few hours getting used to this site and finally found a thread under 2004 F150 about this very problem. Go to http://www.fordf150.net/articles/idx...or--Motor.html and you will get a pretty detailed write up on how to fix this problem. Pretty self explanatory but I took a few shortcuts---I did not remove window completely as described in the article. When you get to that step put window in up position---cut a block of wood 2 1/4" high X 3" long and put it into the cutout where door handle goes---I duct taped the wood in so it could not come out and let window fall down----then look in the 2 small oblong slots and you should see the clamps bolts that are holding the window----loosen these and the window will stay up against the block of wood----When reinstalling the new regulator loosen clamps as far as the screw will allow and spread the clamp apart---then run the regulator up under power slowly to be sure the window goes in between the clamps--tighten clamps and check for normal up/down operation----then continue with reassembly as described in article----Also after removing speaker you only have to remove the bottom 2 plastic studs that hold the speaker in---and you will probably break them as I did---my fix since the dealership did not stock them was to put plastic wall anchors in the 2 bottom holes using the broken plastic stud as a shim behind the speaker I just ran the screws thru the shim into the wall anchors and it worked fine--and it saved about $12 as the studs are only sold in packages of 4---the regulator cost me $181.74 + tax at a Ford dealership and I saved about $200.00 by doing it myself. This site is a hit as far as I'm concerned---just wished the regulars were bit more concerned about us newbies with leading us in the right direction with our problem as insignificant as it may seem. It was a real BIG problem for me until I finally found the info I needed
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  #5  
Old 01-26-2009, 11:43 AM
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Sorry I didn't get back until now, but I did the same thing as the last grampoppop. The $187 price from the dealer was the same here, but it includes the regulator and new motor, so easy to swap out. The only thing I did different was to tape the window up with painters tape instead of using the block of wood, and I didn't have the speaker anchors break even though I removed them twice (just lucky I guess). Simple fix.
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  #6  
Old 02-08-2009, 10:05 AM
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I'm just finishing up my window fix..........I replaced the motor and regulator mechanism. Really, it was pretty easy. Thanks to the pictures on some other posts, I was able to remove the inner door and get at the inside. Just make sure you tell the dealer OVER AND OVER which side you need. I swear I told him 4 times I needed the drivers side.........and what did I get?........passenger side.
The only trouble I'm having is getting the door molding back on the door. Mine is still not on, I need another set of hands.
I did keep the window up using painters tape, it worked great........you can then get at the window clamps (2) with a torq screwdriver. Unscrew the clamps and remove the 5 bolts for the motor assembly and you're done..........a bit of fanagaling and you can get the assembly out the rather small hole.
Now I just need a few tips on replacing the inner door molding!!!

Thanks everyone for the information and help!
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  #7  
Old 02-08-2009, 12:18 PM
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daveap - About a year ago I took ALL the door panels off my SCrew to instal JimmiJammer anti-break in plates. I seem to recall a slight problem getting the front panels back on, but I don't really remember specifics.

As I remember though, the panel is lifted UP to get it off the door. It seems to me I inserted the top of the panel back into the window slot first, holding the panel itself away from the door and making sure the door lock button was up through the hole. Yes, it was awkward! Then, I think I let the panel swing back against the door and I pushed it in hard there before pushing it down. As I recall, there were downward facing hooks that had to go through holes in the door frame that capture the panel when it is pushed down.

Maybe you could verify this by looking at the backside of the panel and the door frame? Sorry I can't be more help, as I said, it was quite a while ago that I did this and my memory of it is hazy.

And, grampoppop, I'm sorry I didn't notice your post before. I DO remember at least one other post about replacing the window regulator and I probably could have located one of them by searching the forums for you.

I don't spend as much time in the Electrical forum as I do on some others. Please don't feel we ignored you because you're new, I don't think we do that.

- Jack
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  #8  
Old 02-08-2009, 01:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JackandJanet View Post
..<snip>...And, grampoppop, I'm sorry I didn't notice your post before. I DO remember at least one other post about replacing the window regulator and I probably could have located one of them by searching the forums for you.

I don't spend as much time in the Electrical forum as I do on some others. Please don't feel we ignored you because you're new, I don't think we do that.

- Jack
Got me how I missed this one also, but posts like that get one added to the ignore list.

Quote:
This site is a hit as far as I'm concerned---just wished the regulars were bit more concerned about us newbies with leading us in the right direction with our problem as insignificant as it may seem. It was a real BIG problem for me until I finally found the info I needed
I would say 85% or better are from new members with problems. The older member usually know how to use the search function, or recall seeing it before.
Oh well, to each their own, and the ignore list grows a bit larger...
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  #9  
Old 02-08-2009, 10:30 PM
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Just a small update on the door......

It was the 2 lower speaker screw mounts, they were in the way. I do remember reading something about that. I removed them, door molding went back on no problem, then just re-installed the speaker mounts.
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  #10  
Old 03-28-2014, 02:40 PM
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I just lowered my passenger window and started to raise it back up when I heard a low pop followed by what sounded like a kind of grinding as the window stopped moving. I was able to get it up by lifting it, but it is only staying there because of the friction from the door molding. There doesn't feel like anything internally is holding it up. Could this be the same problem all of you were having with the window motor/regulator? Thanks for your help
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Old 03-28-2014, 02:40 PM


 
 
 
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