I looked at that option, none of the wires have voltage supplied. just tap the LB-WH on the cigarette lighter, if your just wanting a power supply

 

What trim level is your truck ?

Just want to give you a few idea, but need to know what options you have to do this. Your profile is blank.

The cigar lighter / front power point are constant power, so you would be able to accidentally leave them on if you use this as the power for the switch to the relay.

 

he has an xlt supercab. I personally think the parking light power supply is the best for the positive switch power source.

 

The only other thing I can think of is the RD-BK on the radio wire harness, which is always hot when the igintion is on.

 

Ford Soldier - do you see any concerns with the parking lights flashing with teh factory security system? The more I think about it - as long as the Piaa switch is turned off it would be ok....

 

Looking at the traction control switch, this is from fuse F102 ( 20A ) via the ign switch, hot in start / run position to Fuse F15 / 5A ( not accessory position ).

This is Circuit 640, red w/ Yellow stripe wire.

The items on this are :
1. Instrument Cluster
1.1. This is the input to the cluster VPWR

2. Floor Shifter ( don't think this is for you with an XLT ?? )

3. Overdrive cancel switch
3.1. This is the input ( via the switch ) to the PCM on C1758 pin 45.

4. Traction Control ( not a concern to you, you don't have this ).

If you install an inline fuse to your tap close to the unused connector for the traction control, with a 1A fuse you should be OK. Any problems with the circuit should take out the smaller fuse first ( 1A ), and the load from the coil on the relay is very small ( 0.02 A )

Another option is to see if you have power in either side of Fuse position F18.
This is the fuse for the heated seats, hot in start / run position.

If one side of the the socket is hot in the run position, you can use an add-a-fuse in this slot to get power for your switch. Just leave the fuse slot on the add-a-fuse empty for the heated seats ( if you do not have them, else put the 10A in the add-a-fuse ).



Let us know what you think of these 2 options. I would lean towards the fuse slot for the heated seats control, vs using something that is already in use on your truck.

PS : fordsoldier - Thanks for the info on his truck.

 

thats the way I had mine done.

follow this diagram
http://www.kchilites.com/faq/instruc...layDiagram.pdf

The supply for the switch I taped the brown wire so I could use my lights when my other lights were on. It also gives you the chime, which I liked.

I had the relay under my hood on the drivers side by the air intake hole on the fender.

85 pin grounded on the fender wall

87 Pin run to the positive side of your lights

30 pin ran to battery.

86 pin run through fire wall to your switch.

ground on your switch run to ground on cigarett lighter

your load for the switch will be the wire you run though the fire wall

and your supply run to the brown wire on your head lame switch.

I put an inline fuse from the battery going to pin 30

I also put a inline fuse on the line going to the brown wire to the head light switch

that was just me taking a extra safty precaution.

 

F18 appears to control the PAM, compass, heated seats, electrochromatic mirrors, passenger airbag module, security system etc.. I have all of that except the heated seats. Looking at the fuse block, F20 - auxilary power point is located overhead for the dvd/monitor system which i don't have. Can I use this spot since nothing else is on that fuse position?

FordSoldier - what size fuse from battery to relay?? Also, you grounded the realy to the fender, where did you ground the lights themselves?

 

I used a 20a fuse on the battery to relay, same on the positive switched power on the switch.

I ran the ground of the lights to the fender as well.

 

Any thoughts as to why PIAA insists that the ground from each light needs to go to the neg battery post? The supplied harness won't reach back to the battery so wondering if I can just ground it to the fender?

 

I had piaa 500 smr's on my 05, had the lights grounded to the drivers side fender as well as the relay. my lights worked just fine. trust me wire it the way I said to in my earlier post and you will be fine.

 

Will do, already started :-) One last question - the connectors on the lights seem like they would be prone to moisture esp when mounted on a bull bar... Did you ever have any probs??

Also - happen to have a pick of where you grounded to on the right side??

 

never had any problems but if your worried about it just rap the connections with electrical tape and have your wires ran in a loam thats what I did.

post some pics when your done.

 

There you go, use an add a fuse in that slot, replace F18 in the position for the trucks, and use a 1A in the add a fuse location.

All set, hot in run position, so it will not flash your AUX lights when you lock the truck.

Just an FYI, my 520s & 510s in my PIAA airdam, I used the stock connectors, and did not have any problems with them for the 5 years installed.
A guy I ride motorcycles with has the 520s on a light bar on his ZG, and have not had a problem with the connectors either. They are better then you think.
I did not wrap them with tape, as if they get wet, you want them to be able to dry out. buried in electrical tape will hamper this.

This is very similar to what you are going to be installing, but instead of the brown from the parking lamps, you are going to be usign the lead from the add-a-fuse in F18.



The fuse size should be in the kit from PIAA, I think they use a 20 A ??? ( don't have 520s around any more.

 

OK - OVER IT LOL, using the brown parking light wire, want to use an inline fuse between that tap and the rocker switch... What size should I use?