Hi all, there seem to be a lot of these problems with the Fords and this seems to be related to the anti-theft system, but none of the posts are displaying "exactly" the same behavior as my truck is. Any helpful advice would be appreciated.

Here are the basic symptoms:

1) Car will not crank (starter will not engage).
2) With ignition turned to the half/way position, clicking noise occurs behind dash accompanied by flashing lights (this "cycles", approximately 15 seconds between clicking/flashing periods).

Through troubleshooting, I've determined the following:

1) Solenoid and starter are both good.
2) Starter relay is good.
3) Fuses and relays under the hood and near parking break are good.
4) I can start the truck successfully by crawling under and shorting the solenoid/starter.

 

The transmission range select switch is in the circuit between the ignition switch and the start relay as well as a fuse.
If you can start the engine by tripping the start relay at the relay, it shows the circuit to the relay cannot be completed.
Test if the engine will crank in Neutral or Park. If it cranks in Neutral, the Tans switch is suspect or even the ignition switch in the start position since you can start the engine in Run and Park by manuel bypass method..

 

I tried starting in Neutral and in Drive, but it displays the same behavior as trying to start in Park, so it doesn't appear to be the transmission switch.

I did take the plastic housing off behind the steering column and removed two 20 amp fuses from the PATS, as I was able to determine that the clicking was coming from the PATS. The blinking LED stopped blinking, but I was still unable to crank the engine. However, once I put the two 20 amp fuses back in place I was able to start the truck normally several times. I thought my problem was solved, but the next morning the light was blinking again...and I was once again (sadly) unable to crank. Geez, is there anyway to just disable this thing so I can start my truck?

 

ok, next turn the key on and wait a couple minutes to see if the light flashes a code. If so tell me what it is.
There may be a code set in the PCM to reflect the fault.
The dash HEC testing and the PCM has ability to see some faults from each end of the system.

 

The PATS system is NOT involved in any way in the starter cranking circuit. If you cannot crank the starter, it's not a PATS problem.

Are you certain you do not have an aftermarket device (alarm, remote starter, etc) installed in the vehicle?

Steve

 

Did you check the solinoid on the firewall next to the battery? These are cheap and frequently go bad and are intermittant.

Just a thought-

 

Hi all...and thanks for the replies. I did replace the solenoid by the firewall as I too thought this would be the easy fix but this was not the problem.

I have had success using the remote lock/unlock to turn the flashing off and subsequently start the truck. I get in the truck use the remote to lock the door, then use the remote to unlock the door. The light then stops flashing and I can start. This works as a temporary fix to get the truck started, but still inevitably I come back and the light is flashing again and will not start until I do the whole remote lock/unlock procedure yet again. BTW...I definitely wait 30 seconds before attempting the start.

I will check tonight to see if the LED is flashing some kind of code. As far as I know, there is no aftermarket alarm system but I'm not sure how I'd check for that?

Hmmm, any additional thoughts guys on the source of the problem based on this new info? Beer is on me in MD!

 

Clicking behind the dash is a classic symptom of a dead battery (or at least low voltage to the circuits involved). Since the battery will crank the truck when you jump the battery directly to the starter, have you checked all cables and connections between the battery and the starter?

 

A couple weeks ago I went through a no start situation with my 2000 F150. It would only click when I turned the key. I thought for sure it was the starter but it turned out being the positive cable from the battery to the starter was rubbed through on the frame behind the right front wheel. I'm lucky it didn't start a fire.
What ticks me off the most is it was the same type of thing I look for on a daily basis when I do pm's on tractors/trailers but I missed catching it in time on my own unit.

 

hi folks, I'm sure this has nothing to do with the dead battery or loose cables. since I can start the truck successfully after unlocking the door using the remote lock/unlock key, this eliminates that possibility. problem is, when I manually unlock the door, I still can't start...even after leaving the key in ignition for a minute in start position, and following all other procedures in the user manual and in some of the thread posts on this site. The worse thing now, is that I have fixed the horn on my truck (previously inoperative), and now the horn sometimes blares (on and off - with the lights flashing), if I somehow do something the truck/anti-theft doesn't like. Locking/unlocking stops the alarm/horn, but my neighbors hate me!!

 

You have a pretty sticky problem to figure out yourself.
I did some research for you to the following extent.
In Ford info group 419.01, the dash insturmewnt cluster, after it gets signals from the PATS, initiates the key interrogation sequence when the ignition switch goes to Run or Start.
You may find some code stored in the dash HEC testing that could point to the problem.
Next, in group 418.01 the GEM module is involved in a lot of actions that go on with most everything.
The CSM (central security module) in group 117 has a large part in controlling the wiper operations, the horn chirp, light flashes, auto lock/ and unlock.
These modules are interconnected and communicate with each other to the extent that if a signal is missing, an inhibit function takes place.
My guess is that unless you have a stroke of luck, that you will have to get a dealer involved in testing for codes from the modules to see which one is causing the problem.
Replacing a module is not just a matter of getting one, plug and go because they hold programmable functions per the equippage of the vehichle and that includes other trucks and cars.

I will extend an example I know about.
4X4 low range fully worked but no 4L lamp on the dash. Cause was a program error that would not signal the dash and have the dash turn the 4L lamp on.
Sounds simple but when a lamp does not light and you can see it's not a burned out lamp with the dash pre check, it's not simple anymore.
Hope this gives you more direction and hope it turns out to be something simple.

 

Once again, I repeat, there is no interaction between the factory security system and the starter cranking circuit.

If the starter won't crank, you have either a faulty signal to the starter relay (assuming the starter does engage when the relay is jumped), a faulty power feed into the circuit, or there is some aftermarket modification or device that is inhibiting the starter relay energizing signal.

All the systems needs to crank is for the ignition key to be in START and for the DTR sensor to be in either P or N. This assumes an automatic.

If you need the schematic and some other documentaion, PM your email address to me and I will send you several pdf files with helpful info from the service CD.

Also, check your door tag for the date of manufacture of your truck. There was a running change of the PATS/CSM circuitry during the 01 model year.

Steve

 

I'm having a similar problem with my 2000 F-150 4x4 Supercab 5.4L. Last night I went out and it wouldn't start, didn't crank at all. I had no problem starting it earlier in the day. I checked the battery terminals and they were fine and I haven't had any problems with the battery at all. After a few minutes it started up just fine.

This morning I went out and it won't start again. I unlocked the doors with the remote entry as usual and when I try to start it it won't turn over. No clicking either. I'm not sure where to start looking. I tried putting into neutral and starting it but that didn't work either. I also waited 30 seconds per a suggestion in this thread but that didn't work either. I also tried holding the remote entry override button while turning it over but it didn't make a difference.

So basically all the gauges work put nothing happens when I try to start the truck. Any suggestions on where to start troubleshooting would be greatly appreciated!

-Bill

 

bzilla,
Here is the circuit.
Battery comes thru the ignition switch to a fuse, then thru the transmission switch in either neutral or park position, then to the starter relay.
If you hear no relay pull ups then the circuit is open for some reason.
Check/replace the fuse in this circuit first.
Check the lead to the starter.
The starter has it's own builtin relay in series that pulls up it's own internal heavey contacts.
If you can trigger the start relay manuely and get the the engine to crank then you know the problem is before that point.
TR switch, Ign switch?
There is a 'fused' GEM module connection, but it is in the circuit in such a way that it could not cause a no-crank condition.
This should be pretty easy as there is not much to the circuit.
If there is an alarm hook-up in series with this circuit, then all bets are off.

 

I don't think I hear a relay pull up - but what should I listen for exactly? I checked the fuses under the dash and under the hood and they were fine. Since it didn't start and then did start I didn't think it was a fuse.

How do I trigger the start relay manually since that seems like the next thing to try/test?

Thanks for your help!