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  #1  
Old 05-05-2006, 09:51 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Vehicle: 2000 Ford F150
Posts: 85
2000 F150 Power Door Lock Problems

I have a 2000 F150 Lariat. For some reason both power door locks stopped working at the same time. I can hit the unlock button, either on the remote or on the door itself, and the locks try to pop up but they stop about half way. Also, the doors can not be locked either. Again, they go down about half way. On cool mornings they work fine. On hot days they get "stuck". Can't figure that one out.

When I try to unlock the doors I can hear a clicking noise in the middle of the dash. My dealer told me that there is a remote control entry module located in the dash that may need replacing. It will only cost me $400.00 to have it replaced!! The door actuators seem to work fine.

Any ideas?

Thanks,

Mike
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  #2  
Old 05-05-2006, 12:05 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Windsor, Ont.
Vehicle: 2000 Ford F-150
Posts: 3,762
Sounds like whereever the 2 lock switches wires meet is causing this, and electricity works different with temperature too. Your going to need a wiring diagram for this daddy, or follow the noise. Tricky one, maybe it is a plug half connected too, jiggled loose or something.
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  #3  
Old 05-05-2006, 01:41 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Under the flightpath of ORD 22R
Vehicle: 2006 FORD F150
Posts: 10,264
What makes you think the door actuators are fine ? The lock is not fully cycling, which would make me think the actuators could be giving you a problem.

The clicking noise could be a few things, but let me ask:

Q1. When you hear the noise, is it seem like it is from the oval area where the AutoLamp sensor is at ? ( Seem to recall right at the moment, that is where the lock relay block is at ..could be mistaken ? )

Q2. Is the clicking noise at all times you try to use the Power Door Locks, or just some times ?

Q3. Does it click when using both the switch on both doors AND when using the RKE ?

Q4. Does it click on both the first and second button pulse of the RKE ?

I don't know what the dealer is thinking with the RAP, that is a solid state device, should not be clicking, unless it is clicking without you doing anything.
The RAP sends a ground signal to the driver's door unlock relay, and then second pluse would activate the unlock all relay.

If you pull up on the oval on the dash where the little grille for the AutoLamp sensor it at, you should see a relay block with 3 relays in it.

T1. Put your finger on the plastic relay housing ( no you won't get shocked ) 1 at a time, and see which one is clicking when you try to unlock the doors ( or lock ) and start there. You should fell the mechanical action causing the clicking by doing this.

Don't have access to my EVTM until I get back into the H.O. later tonight, but this is what my feeble mind is digging up in the back, behind the Life cycle covered in clothes, and under 2 dust bunnies
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  #4  
Old 05-06-2006, 03:01 AM
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Location: Under the flightpath of ORD 22R
Vehicle: 2006 FORD F150
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Here is the diagram for for the 2000 MY for the PDL w/ RAP

Click the image to open in full size.

Take a look through ( and feel free to correct any of the post I made to the thread above. I am in no shape to try to add any value at the moment).

I forget what the mfgr date is for the conversion from RAP to CSM, thought it was mid 2000, or is that mid 2001 MY ??? Got me........ Should be basically the same config between RAP and CSM ( don't have the specific changes between the 2 at the moment )
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  #5  
Old 05-19-2006, 02:04 PM
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Join Date: May 2006
Location: Madison, WI
Vehicle: 2000 Ford F150
Posts: 1
Unhappy I have the same issue

I have a 2000 F150, and have the same problem (also, surfaced around the same time as yours). Did you ever figure out what it was? I'd hate to take it to the dealer so they can stick me with a ton of troubleshooting labor, so any information would be greatly appreciated.:santa:
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  #6  
Old 01-29-2007, 09:29 PM
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Join Date: May 2002
Location: Oxnard, CA
Vehicle: 2000 Ford F150
Posts: 1
Unhappy Same Problem in my 2000 Harley Truck

Quote:
Originally Posted by SSCULLY
What makes you think the door actuators are fine ? The lock is not fully cycling, which would make me think the actuators could be giving you a problem.

The clicking noise could be a few things, but let me ask:

Q1. When you hear the noise, is it seem like it is from the oval area where the AutoLamp sensor is at ? ( Seem to recall right at the moment, that is where the lock relay block is at ..could be mistaken ? )

Q2. Is the clicking noise at all times you try to use the Power Door Locks, or just some times ?

Q3. Does it click when using both the switch on both doors AND when using the RKE ?

Q4. Does it click on both the first and second button pulse of the RKE ?

I don't know what the dealer is thinking with the RAP, that is a solid state device, should not be clicking, unless it is clicking without you doing anything.
The RAP sends a ground signal to the driver's door unlock relay, and then second pluse would activate the unlock all relay.

If you pull up on the oval on the dash where the little grille for the AutoLamp sensor it at, you should see a relay block with 3 relays in it.

T1. Put your finger on the plastic relay housing ( no you won't get shocked ) 1 at a time, and see which one is clicking when you try to unlock the doors ( or lock ) and start there. You should fell the mechanical action causing the clicking by doing this.

Don't have access to my EVTM until I get back into the H.O. later tonight, but this is what my feeble mind is digging up in the back, behind the Life cycle covered in clothes, and under 2 dust bunnies
Scully
Mine is doing almost "exactly" the same thing. I'll try to answer the questions.
Q1 Yes, I hear the click from there as well as the locks trying to cycle.
Q2 Every Time!
Q3 Yes.
Q4 Yes every time. Both pulses.

The locks "try" to do as they are supposed to but don't seem to make it. Often if the drivers door is unlocked and the passenger door is locked the function to "lock' works on the one door -- ONCE -- but not again. They seem to try "harder" to work on the first try, then decrease in action with subsequent pushes of the door unlock/lock switch. Very strange indeed. Haven't noticed any heat related changes in mine though.

I haven't tried the T1 yet but will do that although the diagram in the later posts doesn't show for me so don't know what I would be looking at/for.

I am the guy that emailed you on 1/29. Thank you for any input.
Rick
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  #7  
Old 01-29-2007, 09:52 PM
JMC JMC is offline
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Join Date: Dec 1997
Location: Windsor,Ontario,Canada
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Mine did the same thing a year ago. I even pulled apart the lock actuator and greased it. That worked for 5 cycles. I ended up going to Best Buy and purchasing their universal lock actuators. $15.00. I had to drill a few holes and bend the new actuator rod to fit but they work fine now. The actuator is a actually an electric motor the turns a gear that moves an arm, and that arm pushes and pulls on the actuator rod.

JMC
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Swap notes; http://www.f150online.com/forums/art...ml#post3570245
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  #8  
Old 02-07-2007, 04:00 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Vehicle: 2000 Ford F150
Posts: 85
JMC,

I started this thread way long time ago...I've yet to have my locks fixed. My symptoms are exactly as described in the above threads and I can hear my relay clicking under the oval.

Did you have to replace the relay or just the actuators?

Where are these pesky actuators? In the door I presume??

Thanks,

Mike
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  #9  
Old 02-07-2007, 06:21 PM
JMC JMC is offline
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Location: Windsor,Ontario,Canada
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I only had to replace the actuators. Clicking relays usually means they are still good. Here is a link to an install in a Ranger.
http://www.a1electric.com/door_locks2.htm


JMC
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  #10  
Old 02-08-2007, 11:54 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 5
Mike,
I'm experiencing a nearly identical problem with my 2000 F150 XLT except I don't hear a clicking noise in the dash. Mechanism does not seem to have adequate power to completely lock/unlock the doors.

Kirk
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  #11  
Old 02-08-2007, 01:47 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Lake in the Hills,IL
Vehicle: 2008 Ford F150
Posts: 382
I had the same problem as well in my 2000, took it to my friend who is a Ford Master mechanic, he ripped off both door panels and replaced the actuators in the doors...problem solved in under 30 mins. Only cost me $50!
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  #12  
Old 02-08-2007, 09:31 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: West Chicago, Illinois
Vehicle: 1997 ford f150
Posts: 320
me 2

i have the same problem except on an 01 and its just the drivers side half up down it dont make sense
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  #13  
Old 02-10-2007, 02:00 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Vehicle: 2000 Ford F150
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Okay, Now I'm a bit confused. My relays seem to be clicking just fine but the locks still do not pop up.

So, is it the door actuators or the door "latches" (I've seen both terms in this thread). My actuators seem to be one-in-the-same with my door latches. In other words, the latch that keeps the door closed is built into the mechanism that pushes the door lock up and down (and unlocks the door). Do I need to replace this entire assembly or will these two items (the actuator and door latch) separate?

I found the relays and took photos for others to see. You can see them here.
http://picasaweb.google.com/mrmsudaw...orLockProblems

Mike
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  #14  
Old 02-10-2007, 08:20 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Vehicle: 2000 Ford F150
Posts: 85
...in further research, a door actuator is a quite simple device. See
this link for a good explanation of what is on the inside of an actuator:

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/power-door-lock3.htm

Also, to buy one you can click here for some that I found:
http://www.1aauto.com/1A/DoorLockAct...crn=&ovtac=CMP

I also went to Best Buy tonight and had a look at their actuators. They are basically after market installs that they use for cars and trucks that do not have power windows / doors but the owners of the vehicles are wanting to install an after market alarm system. Most of these alarm systems have keyless entry so these actuators are used to accomplish that. They should be adaptable to our F150s but you'll have to figure out the wiring since an OEM plug is not part of these "generic" actuators. Not very difficult to do - since there are only two wires.

Anyway, my quest continues and I will update as I discover more...

Mike
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  #15  
Old 03-31-2007, 10:29 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: NW Burbs Chicago
Vehicle: 2000 Ford F150
Posts: 9
Mrmsudawgs
Did you resolve the problem? I have the same issue started after I got a new key fob , the dealer told me that it was the Accuators. Ford wants $65 each and I do not want to buy new ones if that is not the problem.
Can you update us if possible?

00 XLT
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Old 03-31-2007, 10:29 PM


 
 
 
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