the ol' lock issue. It's actually so common that it's pretty much routine for me to hit lock and unlock about five times to see if the locks get slow or have the "slow" problem. Really saves me the 10 minute discussion that it's not my fault. I've even had to bring up Ford forums so that I can show customers that their truck isn't the only one. The motors just wear out. Sometimes one motor can cause the whole lock system to not work.

 

Well, I've actually not resolved my problem yet but I have determined that the actuators are the cause. I've checked my relays and electrical wiring and all things point to the actuators. I've pulled the panels off my door and have learned what I need to do to disassemble and remove the door latch (thanks to the Hayne's Service Manual available from Advance Auto Parts or Autozone). Beyond that, I've not made much progress.

However, I do know that I can do this work myself and will do it eventually. Likely, this spring and when I do, I'll send photos of the work. Forget about going to the dealer unless you have plenty of $$$ to pay out. You can order your own actuators from many places on the web (how do you think cars that were manufactured without power door locks get power door lock functions for aftermarket alarm systems?).

Another thought - take your truck to an alarm system installer. They can show you your actuators and tell you how to remove them. If they charge you, it will be less than that of the Ford dealer.

I'll update this thread as soon as I get my actuators replaced.

73

Mike

 

I had this same problem with mine I think if I read correctly. I could hear a grinding noise half the time, the rest of the time just a click and they would not lock/unlock.(started of as a 50/50 chance of them working or not until it gave out).
I took everything off and took apart the actuator. One of the small plastic gears was worn down in the actuator itself so I took it off and just flipped it around for the time being until I can get a chance to find a small one the same size. It works fine now.

 

Great thread. I just bought a 2000 F150 for my son yesterday and it has the same problem. I'll try replacing the actuators first. You can get them off eBay real cheap. It's just a matter of waiting for them to arrive.

 

If you figure out how to get the door latch / actuator out of the door, please let us know. I've had mine completely disconnected from the frame of the door but have yet been able to disconnect the cabling.

Thanks,

Mike

 

I have a 2002 f150 xl and the dealer installed the power lock after I bought it. After a while it made this jarring noise everytime I tried to open/close the door. The lock wouldn't go up or down. At first, the dealer fixed it for free. Now, year 2007, the same problem again -- this jarring noise everytime I open or close the door with the remote button. The dealer now wants $400.00! That's too much money. I can live with the noise, but it's freaking my wife! Any help out there?

 

As you probably know by now, it is likely your door actuators. Welcome to the club!

I've still not repaired mine but plan to do so when funds become available. I will post photos of the repair but don't wait on me. I've been living with mine for over a year now. FYI - you can purchase after market actuators from places that do car alarm system installs - Best Buy, Circuit City, local shops - they'll know what you'll need at a fraction of the cost of the dealer's price.

Mike

 

My 99' F250 light duty just started doing this same thing this week, very irritating.

 

I have a 1999 Lariat with the same problem, and the passenger door mostly is the one acting up. This started after I turned on the automatic locks. Up to that point, the locks worked fine. Now the only time I can be sure the power locks work, is when the truck is running, the doors closed, and me outside the vehicle. Gaureented the doors will lock. I am going to turn off this function, as I got caught once, and now that the temp has dropped to -30c, I don't want to get caught again. Just reading all the responces on this forum, I do need new actuators. Just going to figure out if I get the actuators, or a new Chev. This is just one of many things starting to go wrong with this truck, and at 170,000km,I am starting to get more and more electrical problems, and the fuel milage is the worst I have ever seen. I think it may be time to go back to a GM truck.

 

Good Luck- I used to drive Chevy's til it got to the point that I just didn't have the time to work on 'em all the time so I switched to Ford. Been driving Ford ever since. Have no desire to go back- have so much more free time now. You haven't ever seen electrical problems til you see what Chevy can dish up!

 

So, it's been a while. I've done the replacement once and now the actuator I replaced on the driver's side is broken again. I'm going to replace it again. So...here's a link for those who want to know. It shows details on how to do this replacement. These are not my photos. Your mileage may vary.
http://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gall...&albumid=12198

Here are the actuators I ordered last time. Not sure if I will order these again but what the heck. :o
http://www.am-autoparts.com/AM/Door-...0/AM-37331723/

Hope this helps.

 

I have had something like this for over 5 years and so far so good.

http://www.blackwidowsecurity.com/acc-PDL-55.htm

I purchased it from Best Buy.

.

 

I had the same issue. Hit the key fob and the door locks would move a bit but not un-lock. 1st the drivers side then, not long after the passenger side.
Yes, the actuator "HAS" gone bad, supposedly a defect which, I was told was fixed in the new actuators I purchased from Ford. Replaced myself, a little bit of a pain, but both have been working fine for 2 years + .

2001 Lariat here.

 

I purchased 2 new actuators on line for mine. They had to send the ones for the Ranger the others did not last. There is a discussion about this on this site with actual photos how to do the replacement.

 

Sorry to bring an old thread back once again..

Just bought a 00' Lariat with the same issue as both locks attempt to move however they just do not seem to have the power to do so..

I find it rather interesting as to why local shops have a cost of $30+ for the actuator's as the "Black Widow (pdl-55)" looks even to be much better quality then the counter parts for less then $12..
Very odd but at least we all know what the cause is and how to fix it..

Thanks for making this great thread to help me pin point the same issue's..

later,
Civic/Scootin