False... the recall was because the switch can leak and then short-out, thereby igniting and burning the truck to the ground. In the non-recalled vehicles, it tends to blow the fuse first, and that fuse just happens to also power the brake-shift interlock and the brake lights as well. The lack of brake lights isn't as much of a problem as the ignition of the brake fluid, IMHO, at least.

-Joe

 

Joe,

I was referring to MY issue. My brake lights, blinkers and hazard lights (fuse number 13) popped and when I put a new one in, it popped too. At the same time my cruise control went out. When I had the dealership replace the cruise control switch it fixed the issue with my brake lights, hazards and blinkers fuse popping.

Hope that makes sense to you because it is what happened.

 

Yeah, that makes more sense.... I thought you were implying that the recall was as a result of the lighting not working properly.... My point was that the brake lights and brake-shift interlock not working is a SYMPTOM of the failed switch, not a cause for the recall (the chicken, not the egg).

In either case, that makes perfect sense.... the pressure switch is on the same fuse as the pedal switch (and clutch switch if so-equipped), so it's not surprising.

-Joe

 

Hey everyone,

Turnes out it was a deactivation switch was my problem. I'm trying to decript this bill to help figure out the part number to give you.

Thanks for all everybodys help.

Mike

 

I seem to lost my CC a few days ago..... I did the CC test and I get a confirmation blink , then i get one blink when i press the ON button, but that's where it stops. There is no blink when i press the RESUME button. Also there is no code that blinks at the end.
Any suggestions.

I have a 2001 super crew

THANKS

 

I just completed the self test for my 2001 F-150 and at the end I recieved two flashes. I noticed earlier that there was a definition for three flashes, so I was wondering what two meant? The help is greatly appreciated.

 

The 2 flashes lead you in the direction of the brake pedal diactivation part of the cruise control. First is to check for operation of the brake lights. then unplug the cruise plug wiring connectwr at the servo under the hood with the key on check and see if you have 10 volts or more between pin 10 being ground and pin 4 while doing this key should be on and brake pedal depressed if not check the brake lt switch and fuse 15 5 amp under hood fuse also check. Now with key off and with an ohm meter conected again between pin 10 and pin $ you should see less than 5 ohms if the resistance is less than 5 ohms you probably have a bad cruise control servo if not you have an open in the switch or wiring Just so you understand pin 4 is grounded to make the cruise work and when it see battery voltage it shuts off the brake lt switch has to sides power and ground.

 

did the self test on my '03 F-150
turned on key while holding "off" switch, got the single flash of cruise light.
then went thru rest of sequence and got no light flashes at all. however i did hear the actuator move under hood. any help here.
thanks

 

Remove the plug from the cruise control servo under the hood and with the key in the on position check for voltage between pin 4 tan /lt blue wire and pin 10 black wire at the conector there should be no voltage , if voltage is preasant the brake pedal switch is bad. Then check the same circuit with the key off and use an ohm meter should be less than.5 ohm

 

I too tried the self test and only had the light come on with the first two steps, 1. push cruise off while turning ignition to on position then again when I pushed the cruise on button. After that no more cruise light. What else could be the problem?

 

i know this is an old topic and has been discussed..but i am pulling out my hair..my cruse will not engage unless you hold down slightly on the brake pedal does anybody have a wiring diagram or a pin out for the breaklight switch i will give you a free jar of home made salsa ha ha ha

 

Did you have the recall done ?

Here are the diagrams for the speed control

 

yes i had the recall done..but for testing i have it jumperd out..i must have a gounding issue or a wire that is getting voltage on it frm a bad sensor..i am lost/...if you break the set of contacts in the brk switch but not far enough to turn on the break lights the cruse will come on and controld the speed very well but if you let the pedal up the cruse turns off pedal up or at rest the cruse circuit is complete if i am reading the diagram right wen you press teh pedal it is turned off i need to knwo exactly what each wire goes to i know which ones are for the break lights but dont understand how the power for the cruse is routed .. i cant make heads or tails..if i unplug the harnes from the break pedal the cruse will work and the over ride or master cylinder switch will cut the cruse off but plug it all back up and bubkiss


sorry for rambling i am whoop been working all day

 

The BPP switch are the wires to the CC and to the brake lamps, in the 97-03 MY they are one in the same circuit ( along with the shift interlock ).

Try running the CC self test

Self-Test Diagnostics

WARNING:
This test is a key on engine off (KOEO) test only that is conducted in park only with emergency brake fully engaged.

1. Enter self-test diagnostics by depressing the speed control OFF switch while turning the ignition key ON, making sure the engine does not start and is not running. The speed control indicator on the instrument panel will flash once to indicate that speed control module entered the diagnostic mode. Five additional flashes at this point indicate a defective speed control servo. Release the OFF switch.

2. Press the remaining switches in this sequence: ON, RESUME, COAST and SET/ACCEL.

If the ON switch is not depressed within five seconds after entering the diagnostics mode, the module times out and the procedure must be started over.

The speed control indicator lamp will flash as each switch is depressed. Press each switch in the sequence immediately after the indicator light goes out for the previous switch.

Note:
There will be a slight delay when the last button is pressed and the lamp flashes.

3. A lamp flash with the last button (SET/ACCEL) indicates that the static test passed. If the lamp does not flash with the last button and there are no additional flashes of the lamp, the switch is defective.

If the lamp does not flash with the last button, and additional flashes occur, follow the chart below for trouble codes:

— 2 flashes - BPP defective, circuit is defective, brake applied, CPP switch or jumper (if equipped).

— 3 flashes - deactivator switch is open or circuit defective.

— 4 flashes - vehicle speed signal is out of range or circuit is defective

4. Immediately (.25 second delay) after the static test, the speed control servo does a dynamic test by automatically actuating the throttle lever from 8 mm (0.315 in) to 12 mm (0.472 in) of travel from the idle position. During the dynamic throttle pull, observe throttle movement to witness any binding or sticking of the speed control cable and correct connection of speed control cable to throttle lever. Make sure the throttle returns to the idle position.

5. Return the ignition switch to the OFF position and proceed to the Symptom Chart.

 

i got 3 flshes from the self test checked the bpp switch and it is good but changed it anyway with one from the factory...also had the truck checked with a codes reader at the dealer and it showed the same thing break light switch....that is when i bought the new one ...if you check the wires at the pressure switch on the master cylinder it has 12 volts on it when the truck is off and even if the control harness to the cruse servo is unplugged...







what i need is to know where the wires run from point a to point b or as close as somebody can get me somewhere i have something gone bad wire melted together or a sensor shorted i must have a feed back loop or something