Driver side window won't work
#1
06-19-2003, 06:45 PM
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Upland, CA USA
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Driver side window won't work
Hi,
I've got a driver-side window on my SuperCrew that won't go up or down. Ironically the engine light (under the hood) isn't working either, though its filaments are in tact. Any connection here? Maybe a simple repair I can do before I send the darn thing over to the dealer for a full day?
Thanks,
Jon
I've got a driver-side window on my SuperCrew that won't go up or down. Ironically the engine light (under the hood) isn't working either, though its filaments are in tact. Any connection here? Maybe a simple repair I can do before I send the darn thing over to the dealer for a full day?
Thanks,
Jon
#3
06-22-2003, 02:19 PM
On the SCrew when you pull the panel off ( pull up on the front point, and then slide forward, the heal has a tab holding it down ), you will see 4 connectors.
The Gray connector is C509 for the conector that has the front windows in it.
The front driver's side window is controlled by the GEM module.
you can test to see if the switch is bad by taking a short piece of wire and with the key in run position, just jumper from the Circuit 400 ( delay accessory feed ) which is a light blue w/ black stripe wire to the down command wire which is the Tan w/ a light blue stripe.
Full functions for testing :
light blue w/ black stripe---jumper--Tan w/ light blue stripe = window down
light blue w/ black stripe---jumper--white w/ black stripe = window up.
light blue w/ black stripe---jumper--Gray wire = one touch down.
If you want to tear further into the door if the above does not work :
On the Motor is a connector with 2 wires ( C506 ).
The terminal that had the Orange w/ white stripe wire is the up direction of the motor, the terminal that had the white w/ black stripe wire is the down direction of the motor.
This can be done with a 12V fused lead from the battery, and does not need the key on to work. Remember to jumper to the motor, NOT the wire harness when testing the motor, the wire haness goes to the GEM module. Mark the terminals with up and down before taking the harness off.
Another way to test, key in run position, press the window down switch with a test light on the white w/ black stripe wire at the power window motor to see if power is leaving the GEM module to the motor ( tests the switch, hanress and GEM all at one time ).
Hope this makes sense, I was looking up info and writing it as I tracked it down, and I tried to cover testing of the harness to the motor looking for a bad switch, looking for no output from the GEM module, and haivng a faultly power window motor.
Let us know what happens, and if you need clarification on any of my ramblings above.
Steve
The Gray connector is C509 for the conector that has the front windows in it.
The front driver's side window is controlled by the GEM module.
you can test to see if the switch is bad by taking a short piece of wire and with the key in run position, just jumper from the Circuit 400 ( delay accessory feed ) which is a light blue w/ black stripe wire to the down command wire which is the Tan w/ a light blue stripe.
Full functions for testing :
light blue w/ black stripe---jumper--Tan w/ light blue stripe = window down
light blue w/ black stripe---jumper--white w/ black stripe = window up.
light blue w/ black stripe---jumper--Gray wire = one touch down.
If you want to tear further into the door if the above does not work :
On the Motor is a connector with 2 wires ( C506 ).
The terminal that had the Orange w/ white stripe wire is the up direction of the motor, the terminal that had the white w/ black stripe wire is the down direction of the motor.
This can be done with a 12V fused lead from the battery, and does not need the key on to work. Remember to jumper to the motor, NOT the wire harness when testing the motor, the wire haness goes to the GEM module. Mark the terminals with up and down before taking the harness off.
Another way to test, key in run position, press the window down switch with a test light on the white w/ black stripe wire at the power window motor to see if power is leaving the GEM module to the motor ( tests the switch, hanress and GEM all at one time ).
Hope this makes sense, I was looking up info and writing it as I tracked it down, and I tried to cover testing of the harness to the motor looking for a bad switch, looking for no output from the GEM module, and haivng a faultly power window motor.
Let us know what happens, and if you need clarification on any of my ramblings above.
Steve
#4
06-26-2003, 11:11 PM
I had the same problem. It was a faulty ground. Ford runs the ground wire from the right side of the vehicle, which had gone bad on my pickup. I just put a patch wire from the ground on the left door window switch to a sheet metal screw grounded on the left door frame. I don't know if this is your problem, but a jumper wire with alligator clips would tell you real fast. Hope this helps.
Last edited by rbwapiti; 06-26-2003 at 11:13 PM.
#5
04-29-2008, 08:29 AM
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Window/Radio Problem
Thanks for the info, going to get back to this today now that the rain and tornado's are gone from this part of the country.
I know the motors are good and probably is the switch based on the way it quit.
The drivers window is mentioned as being controlled by the GEM, what if both windows are dead? Is that still related to the GEM?
If it is the GEM Module, there's no magic in 12V to windows or radio, I can live without the auto down function, I rarely use it.
What would the consequences be if I hard wired via fuse the windows and radio and made it switched?
I'm not a mechanic but can fix most anything (with enough parts) and am almost fluent with electrical systems. I will post my test results later today.
Thanks for the info, it's enough to get started today.
I know the motors are good and probably is the switch based on the way it quit.
The drivers window is mentioned as being controlled by the GEM, what if both windows are dead? Is that still related to the GEM?
If it is the GEM Module, there's no magic in 12V to windows or radio, I can live without the auto down function, I rarely use it.
What would the consequences be if I hard wired via fuse the windows and radio and made it switched?
I'm not a mechanic but can fix most anything (with enough parts) and am almost fluent with electrical systems. I will post my test results later today.
Thanks for the info, it's enough to get started today.
#6
05-02-2008, 09:21 PM
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Location: Burlington area VT
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So i have a longshot, but just wondering.. this post was started in 2003.. is this still an issue??!!
Anyway, I had been having a problem with the auto down feature on my drivers window.. After happening to be reading my owners manual, I noticed that in the interior fuse box by the steering wheel, Relay #4 was responsible for "auto down window".. This is on my '00, so no idea if it is still the same.. I pulled that relay, and in the midst of trying to replace it noticed that my drivers side window stopped working alltogether, while my passenger window still worked just fine. I'm hoping my relay is bad, and is causing my issue, but perhaps it could be causing yours too???
Just a shot.
Anyway, I had been having a problem with the auto down feature on my drivers window.. After happening to be reading my owners manual, I noticed that in the interior fuse box by the steering wheel, Relay #4 was responsible for "auto down window".. This is on my '00, so no idea if it is still the same.. I pulled that relay, and in the midst of trying to replace it noticed that my drivers side window stopped working alltogether, while my passenger window still worked just fine. I'm hoping my relay is bad, and is causing my issue, but perhaps it could be causing yours too???
Just a shot.
