Unable to connect to OBD for state inspection
#16
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: In the fast lane from LA to Tokyo...
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I have same problem fuse is not blown flashed back to stock went to get inspection and there machine would not connect mechanic was helpful but still did not know why he even tried to hook up a scan tool and it wouldn't connect ether going to double check fuse but the gryphon will reflash and seems to connect
Have you checked the actual obdii port connector pins?
Make sure they don't move and aren't loose.
#17
DO NOT change back to stock tune before an emissions check! Doing that will guarantee that you will not pass!
Please, this has been covered in the "Questions About Tunes" sticky and was talked about already in this thread.
Just unplug and remove your programmer if it's the kind that normally sits on your dash. Have the truck tested with the OBDII port "naked" and the programmer out of sight.
Breezy5000, reload your custom tune. Then, use it to check for any codes - you probably won't have any. (Loading a custom tune should remove the P1000 code.) Disconnect and hide your Gryphon and drive your truck to the emissions test station for a retest. I bet you will pass. Let us know.
- Jack
Please, this has been covered in the "Questions About Tunes" sticky and was talked about already in this thread.
Just unplug and remove your programmer if it's the kind that normally sits on your dash. Have the truck tested with the OBDII port "naked" and the programmer out of sight.
Breezy5000, reload your custom tune. Then, use it to check for any codes - you probably won't have any. (Loading a custom tune should remove the P1000 code.) Disconnect and hide your Gryphon and drive your truck to the emissions test station for a retest. I bet you will pass. Let us know.
- Jack
Jack
While I am not disputting the claim to NOT change back to stock I just so happen to do so last month when my inpsection was due and I must be a furtunate guy because I had no issues. Again just an fyi. I clearly got lucky on this inspection.
#18
- Jack
#19
I've read where people have tried to do the "drive-cycle" procedure to eliminate the code and it didn't work either.
- Jack
#20
The drive cycle procedure is key. If you return it to stock you need to drive the vehicle enough to have information stored in the computer for the inspection computer to read. It was explained to me by the guy I go to for inspections. He said there are 7 parameters that are recorded in the pcm. You have to have information in at least 3 of them for the inspection computer to work. Information is recorded in areas like at idle, Highway speed, low rpm ,high rpm. and such. don't quote me on those they were just examples. I had to have a rejection sticker put on for a day because he had already scraped of my sticker before he found out there was no information in the sections needed . I took the truck around town and ran it up the highway a few exits and back before retuning the next day . Then everything was fine. Now I dont reset it to stock I just unplug the programmer and let them test it. no problems. Except window tint. Which I explain that I put it on after I left his station.
#21
hey guys i'm a state inspector and i have to do drive cycles all the time to get cars ready to pass emissions. here's a few things you should try to get your p1000 code to go away. steady cruise around 40mph on a highway feeder road for a couple minutes, then get on the highway doing NO FASTER THAN 65 (over 65 and it won't set as "ready") for about 10 minutes. do some stop and go traffic at various speeds. let it idle for at least 5 minutes. these should make all your readiness codes (except evap) ready to pass. you can pass emissions without the evap system testing ready (it takes a lot longer to ready itself), but all the rest have to be good.
Obviously, all this is if your problem is the P1000 code and you don't want to go back to your custom tunes to clear it.
Obviously, all this is if your problem is the P1000 code and you don't want to go back to your custom tunes to clear it.
#22
hey, i just found a link with the drive cycle needed if anybody wants it.
http://www.obdii.com/drivecycleford.html
ps-fill up your gas tank first
http://www.obdii.com/drivecycleford.html
ps-fill up your gas tank first
#24
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: In the fast lane from LA to Tokyo...
Posts: 10,697
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hey guys i'm a state inspector and i have to do drive cycles all the time to get cars ready to pass emissions. here's a few things you should try to get your p1000 code to go away. steady cruise around 40mph on a highway feeder road for a couple minutes, then get on the highway doing NO FASTER THAN 65 (over 65 and it won't set as "ready") for about 10 minutes. do some stop and go traffic at various speeds. let it idle for at least 5 minutes. these should make all your readiness codes (except evap) ready to pass. you can pass emissions without the evap system testing ready (it takes a lot longer to ready itself), but all the rest have to be good.
Obviously, all this is if your problem is the P1000 code and you don't want to go back to your custom tunes to clear it.
Obviously, all this is if your problem is the P1000 code and you don't want to go back to your custom tunes to clear it.
#25
Yeah, thats why i said it was for ppl who dont want to get rid of the p1000 by putting the truck back onto the custom tunes.
And as for the evap status not needing to be ready, im not sure if thats the whole state of texas or just my county but my state machine passes them all day long
And as for the evap status not needing to be ready, im not sure if thats the whole state of texas or just my county but my state machine passes them all day long
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