I happened to "borrow" a SuperChips 1715 tuner and now the CEL is coming on.

I ran the default progaming with 87 (oops), but in about fifty miles of driving the light came on and I got these codes:

P1000 OBD Systems Readiness Test Not Complete
P1154 Bank 2 Fuel Control Shifted Rich (FAOSC)

I returned to stock and after filling the tank with 93 octane I decided to try again. I used the tuner default and let the truck idle for about 10~15 min after progamming. About 80 miles later, I got another CEL with these codes:

P1000 OBD Systems Readiness Test Not Complete
P1154 Bank 2 Fuel Control Shifted Rich (FAOSC)
P1134 Bank 1 Fuel Control Shifted Rich (FAOSC)

Now the Q's

Why, after programming, is the CEL coming on?
How do I fix it?

 

Well,

The p1000 is from loading the Superchips program. It will go away after you drive it awhile.

I'm not sure about the other codes. Have you tried clearing the codes using the programmer and they still come back?

I have never gotten any CEL's after using my programmer, and I have loaded and unloaded the programs numerous times

 

ttt

 

Hi SB,

I have to point out a couple of things up front before I get to some suggestions for you, so bear with me a second & don't be offended, please................. only registered owners of Micro Tuners are supported (meaning entitled to Tech Support), and such Tech Support can be provided only via the telephone or in person - not in email or here on the boards. It's against the rules of F-150 Online for vendors to provide their customers with Tech Support here.

OK, with that out of the way, I'll make a few comments to try to help you a bit - from there you're on your own and will need to have proper diagnosis & troubleshooting done on that vehicle by a qualified technician if the problems continue...........

First - it is a BIG mistake to run that vehicle on premium gas tuning with 87 octane in the tank (you already know this by now of course SB, I'm just going over this for everyone else who will read this) - that can cause problems, especially on older vehicles. You can get anything from a lean condition to a rich condition being reported, and of course detonation automatically happens too, causing the knock sensor to activate & sometimes max out. You won't actually hear the detonation audibly if it's within the knock sensor system's effective "range." Even engine damage can result from running 87 octane on a premium gas tune, as well as many other types of engine & driveability symptoms. However, problems resulting from improper use of the Micro Tuner go away once you return to the stock program (depending on how long the vehicle was forced to operate like that).

OR..............

This could very well be something else that simply happened at about the same time and has NOTHING to do with the use of the Micro Tuner - which is what I suspect.

As you can see, there is no pattern or tendency to get MIL's just from uploading the correct Superchips tuning on a properly maintained vehicle, and your vehicle is doing the same thing both with and WITHOUT the Micro Tuner being installed. That being the case, chances are it has nothing to do with the Micro Tuner, the system just started reporting the problems around the same time. We've seen this happen many times in "older" vehicles or vehicles and/or vehicles with high mileage.

Given that vehicle is a bit "older" (1997 model), most likely it needs some routine maintenance - like fresh upstream O2 sensors, ignition system (by now all the original plugs, coil packs & plug wires, if they are still on the vehicle, would be long overdue for replacement regardless of mileage), fuel filter, MAF sensor cleaning, EGR system & EGR port cleaning, etc., etc. On a 1997 model, by now just from a time standpoint regardless of vehicle mileage, virtually every original engine sensor needs either replacement or cleaning. It's imperative that all vehicle maintenance be up to snuff at levels in excess of Ford's basic schedule (and here I'm primarily referring to not letting the O2 sensors get more than 30K-50K miles or 4 years on them, replacing the fuel filter a minimum of every 15K miles on non-supercharged engines, making sure the MAF meter & the hot and cold wires in the MAF meter are spotlessly clean, making sure the entire EGR system and all EGR ports are up to snuff and clean, etc.), before using *any* performance tuning. Not doing so will reduce the results, and can in some cases cause problems.

The P1000 code is nothing - you'll get that just by disconnecting the battery, and every time you flash the PCM. It just means power was interrupted to the PCM, as it gets cycled during the procedure to flash. This will go away on it's own, taking anywhere from a few days to a few weeks of driving to go away.

Not knowing anything about this vehicle or it's condition/state of maintenance, and being a performance specialist as opposed to being a repair tech, I'd say...................

Using a service manual, make sure to check all vacuum, PCV & other hoses - routing, condition, leaks, etc. Any hose that is not pliable, or that seems "hard," or cracked, or dry-rotted, etc., needs to be replaced. Also, go over the entire EGR system - check the DPFE sensor, and clean out *all* of the EGR ports, etc.

Disconnect your battery, then remove the MAF meter and clean it by using electrical contact cleaner that will NOT ATTACK PLASTIC, and spraying it on the 2 wires (hot & cold wires, they are very thin) of the MAF - don't touch the wires, just gently spray the contact cleaner onto them, then let the MAF sit for a half-hour to an hour or so to air-dry (never use any "pressurized" air to dry out the MAF, it will dry quickly enough on it's own) - the contact cleaner will evaporate/dry, leaving the MAF wires clean. Then when you reinstall and reconnect the MAF, go over the entire air intake tract to make sure there are no leaks, nothing plugged up, etc.

From a component maintenance standpoint, I also recommend:

Replace the 2 upstream O2 sensors (disconnect the battery when doing this as well) - use Bosch brand O2's, and buy them at an auto parts store where you'll pay about $50 each, instead of at a Ford dealership where you'll pay $90 each. And replace the fuel filter, too - use the stock Ford unit.

At that point, assuming we don't have any fuel pump/fuel line/injector/regulator/fuel rail problems, the vehicle's system should be working well enough so that you don't have problems caused by worn sensors or other components being pushed from being driven harder with performance tuning installed, etc., and you can see how it runs back on the stock program, with good quality 87 octane fuel in the tank - as always, steer clear of the "cheap stuff," the no-names, off-brands, etc.

Good luck!