Hey guys. I pulled the trigger on an Oxford white '14 SCREW EB yesterday. Plan on doing some paint work this week. My last F150 was tuxedo black so it was easy to polish. My current process will be this:

1) Wash with CG citrus wash
2) Iron X
3) Poor Boys SSR 1 (paint is in very good condition) on a white pad
4) Black Fire Wet Diamond on a black pad
5) Wax... I need a good OTC for waxing a white truck, as I won't be ordering detail products before I do this. Any recommendations??

Also, what can I use to get wax/polish residue out of my black plastic? The lot boys left some behind. Will simple green and a toothbrush get it? I have a bottle of 303 cleaner too if the simple green won't work.

 

Whatever you have for a LSP for your black truck will work fine on white. If you don't have any left, I'm partial to Megs Ultimate - liquid or paste.

For the plastic, Mother's Back to Black is crap, but one thing it does do well is get the wax residue off with a toothbrush.

 

Thanks glc. I have dodo juice purple haze soft wax, which made my tuxedo black pop. Hopefully it does the same with the white!

 

I forgot to mention claying after the Iron X too!

 

As GLC states, black is way more fussy than white when it comes to waxes. What you have will work well. After having a couple of white vehicles, I can tell you that good carnuba's really make white pop. On my F350 that was oxford white, I also liked Menzerna Powerlock and Meg's Ultimate paste (more than the liquid).

 

Absolutely! I'm leaning toward some Natty's red as my next wax purchase, I think I have enough of the dodo juice to do the new truck and that'll kill it. I am definitely a huge fan of the Poorboys stuff

 

For an LSP on my Oxford white I usually use Collinite 845 or Natty paste wax (white) and as of recent, Menzerna Powerlock - recommended by member 2stroked, the O W master

Big Poorboys fan here also. Use to love White Diamond w/white pad and EX-P by hand after SSR1 before LSP but reduced my steps so I eliminated them for now and go straight to PL after SSR1.

 

As somewhat of the old man on Oxford White around here, I don't see any problem with steps 1-4 of your suggested process. In fact, I really see no need for step #5. The Black Fire Wet Diamond is a very good LSP all by itself. It will give you a slightly different effect / shine than an old fashioned Carnauba wax like Collonite 845, but most folks think it looks just fine. If you'd like, try using the Black Fire as the base and let it cure for a day. Then top it with the 845 which will soften the effect of the BF somewhat.

The biggest problem you're going to have with any white paint is making sure you've completely wiped off any residue. That's because the color of the paint pretty well hides it. I always move the vehicle outside into the sunlight when I'm done to look for spots I missed.

The biggest advantage to white paint is its ability to hide marring. Of course this also makes it kind of hard to make it truly "pop" when you detail it right. Then again, if you do get it right, it looks absolutely awesome!

 

The only reason I recommended the Megs Ultimate is you asked for something OTC. It should last a long time, it's a synthetic polymer. They now have Gold Class Plus, which is a carnauba with some polymers and should give you more of a carnauba effect.

 

My Oxford white paint is over 7 years old, 98k miles and it still looks new. Much easier to work on than black, but don't expect it to pop quite as much.

I used to use megs nxt wax and tired lots of other waxes. Parked out in the sun, they just dont seem to last long enough.

When I detail, i clay, add a coat or two of megs #7 show car glaze and then a few coats on liquid glass. LG is an old school product, but it's out lasted any wax I've used as far as water beading, it's the easiest thing I've ever worked with, and it's good to do in the direct sun as well. It holds up like a sealant.

 

7 years old? It's just a puppy , try 11 years old.

Truck does look nice and clean tho.. I use to use LG in the 80's on my all my vehicles, I remember it being a decent wax.. Didn't know it was still around.

Meg's #7 I do use, but only on my 88 Mustang Gt with single stage paint (no clear), then topped with a wax or sealant. Never thought of useing it on newer finishes.

Op seems to have alot of good choices to make his o w pop.

 

I hope mines still looking as good at 11! And thank you.

LG has been around a long time. I think it may have been reformulated since the 80s though. Check it out again, I've tried so many things on the market, and nothing has looked as good and lasted as long. When I put a couple coats on in November, I still have a just waxed water beading effect by March after a harsh winter.

The #7 seems to add a lot more shine when I apply that prior to LG. No where near as easy to work with, but it's noticeable. Definitely more so on a darker finish though.

 

Your welcome.. I'll agree I remember LG being a very nice product, just now adays I have 4 vehicles of my own alone and each one of them gets a different process and products, for instance, everything I do to my mustang is by hand only from day 1 when I bought it in 88, all other vehicles I use a DA.

Thinking back I use to use LG on a 1972, 73, 77 240z and 260z, brand new 1984 Toyota Supra, brand new 1987 Toyota PU, brand new 1988 Mustang GT and brand new 1990 Toyota SR5 pickup. Most were metallic paint and I remember they use to really pop for that time. Once I purchased my mustang I used it a couple times but ended up changing over to Zymol HD-Cleanse and topped it with Zymol Concourse.

#7 now adays is much easier for me to use than H-D cleanse so that's what I use now. Makes my Cabernet red very deep and rich in color but I don't think it lasts very long. I then top it with a wax or sealant I mentioned earlier.

 

Please don't hate me....but I'm a Turtle Man (pardon the pun). Turtle Wax paste is my fav. for paint. I really like the Turtle Wax Ice on the chrome and black trim. For cleaning the wax residue on the trim, I use the Turtle Wax spray bug and tar remover with a tooth brush. I just take my time and work it till the residue is gone. Over the years I've used more products then I can remember, even the "Fad" stuff. But I always go back to Turtle Wax. When I was a yut, and also, not too long ago either, I did the 'ole "One" "Two" "Three" procedure. Simply put, after a hand wash and dry, #1 was using what was required to clean the paint, trim, chrome, etc.. #2 was then polishing, taking care of scratches, etc.. Then #3 was waxing. And let me tell ya, it was "a lot" of elbow grease on some of my past cars. Now that I'm on in my years and a bit feeble............ Slower, Easier, Smarter is the ticket. I don't do the 1,2,3 thing any more. It's become more like "1" section today, another section tomorrow, and so on. Too hard on me with a bad back. Now, I take my time with a good Clay Bar, and use Bug and Tar remover as needed. I use the clay bar on just about everything. Once I'm satisfied that all is clean and shiny, the Turtle Wax goes on the paint, then the Turtle Wax Ice goes on the chrome and black trim. Then I'll do the once, twice, thrice over to check the results and I'm done. I'm OCD about keeping my truck clean. Every time I go out, or in the parking lot, the California duster comes out. Or if a bird takes aim at my windshield as I'm driving, I'll pull over and wipe it off. And I keep a bottle of detailer, and a good supply of towels in the truck too. Yea, I'm OCD and I love it. The nice comments from passer by's are a great boost too!




Last June. And a little Photoshop stripe.





A few weeks ago, plus that stripe again.

 

I did what 2stroked recommended and stuck with the BF as my LSP. I only had time to clay, polish and get the BF on the hood, as it was getting late in the day and there was (of course) rain coming. It only rained for like 10 minutes though, so just enough to eff up my work. Prio to the rain, it looked pretty darn good though. My paint had more crud than I thought, I kept finding teeny little spots in it. The megs clay wasn't doing the trick, so I had to go to red clay magic, and even with that the first couple of passes with the clay sounded like 2000 grit sand paper. I'm using nano skin glide as my lube at a 20:1 dilution with distilled water. The iron x made it look like I had the truck painted with purple fleck! I found some drip trails that left greyish marks in the paint around the emblems and window frames, I'm hoping a vinegar spray and some clay will erase those... This weekend I'll finish the detail and post some pics.