Griot's or Meg's G110V2??

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  #31  
Old 02-28-2012, 07:38 AM
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Originally Posted by SSCULLY
Don't forget, if the finish is too bad, you might want to research the Megs DA MicroFiber kit before investing in more pads and different polish.

The kit was developed to be run on the G110V2 system ( or PC or GG ).

I read a lot of good things about it, when used on those DAs ( not so much on the Flex ). This is an opinion formed from reading only, not actual use. I have not put it to paint yet. I did try the Optimum MF pads in Cut and Polish and with the right product, the will make quick work of defects with a Flex.

One thing I did make note of, the wax in that is in the Megs MF kit is more like a glaze, you still should put a LSP over it when done. This is just what some have reported on different forums.
I have heard of the MF system, figured I'd start with the less aggresive method first.

Originally Posted by Merlin
Megs M105 and M205 are both sold at a couple of auto parts stores where I am.
M105 is more aggressive that Ultimate Compound and a bit more difficult to use.
I suggest, when using M105, to use a spray bottle with water to keep it moist.

The Megs MF kit works (I'd suggest the 5" kit) it includes the 5" backing plate.

Ultimate Compound needs to be followed with Ultimate Polish (like M105/M205)
As far a LSP's that depends on the color and finish (metallic etc.) of your paint.

What are your paint colors/finishes?

If you choose the Megs MF kit you will need to "clean" the disc between panels.
Do you have an air compressor?
My truck is tuxedo black metallic and the wife's car is just plain white. What does LSP stand for? I am horrible with acronyms
 
  #32  
Old 02-28-2012, 08:19 AM
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Originally Posted by bansheerider
I have heard of the MF system, figured I'd start with the less aggresive method first.
Good choice...If you have swirls and scratches...UC "may" not be enough.
There is the M105/M205 combo or the consumer version UC/Ultimate Polish.
Yes, you need two...One for removal and one to brighten the matte finish.

Originally Posted by bansheerider
My truck is tuxedo black metallic and the wife's car is just plain white. What does LSP stand for? I am horrible with acronyms
WOW, one at each end of the spectrum.
For "just plain white" I like Collinite 845 (avail at some auto parts stores)
For "tuxedo black metallic" I like Blackfire Wet Diamond (slick and shiny)

Now for a product to do both...I might suggest Zaino Z-2 AND ZFX
Yes, you can ONLY purchase Zaino products on-line...but it's worth it.

LSP = Last Step Product (Wax or sealant)
Here is a link to Detailing Acronyms
LSP's are subjective. There are waxes and sealants and the look is different.
In most cases, sealants are polymers, last 3-4 months and have a shiny look.
Again, in most cases, waxes are carnauba last 3-4 weeks and have a warm look.

Now to really confuse you, there is no naming convention for detailing products.
Some products labeled "wax" are actually a sealant.
Some products labeled "polish" are actually a sealant.
Some products labeled "polish" are actually a compound.
I hope this makes it clear as mud.
 

Last edited by Merlin; 02-28-2012 at 08:21 AM.
  #33  
Old 02-28-2012, 08:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Merlin
Good choice...If you have swirls and scratches...UC "may" not be enough.
There is the M105/M205 combo or the consumer version UC/Ultimate Polish.
Yes, you need two...One for removal and one to brighten the matte finish.



WOW, one at each end of the spectrum.
For "just plain white" I like Collinite 845 (avail at some auto parts stores)
For "tuxedo black metallic" I like Blackfire Wet Diamond (slick and shiny)

Now for a product to do both...I might suggest Zaino Z-2 AND ZFX
Yes, you can ONLY purchase Zaino products on-line...but it's worth it.

LSP = Last Step Product (Wax or sealant)
Here is a link to Detailing Acronyms
LSP's are subjective. There are waxes and sealants and the look is different.
In most cases, sealants are polymers, last 3-4 months and have a shiny look.
Again, in most cases, waxes are carnauba last 3-4 weeks and have a warm look.

Now to really confuse you, there is no naming convention for detailing products.
Some products labeled "wax" are actually a sealant.
Some products labeled "polish" are actually a sealant.
Some products labeled "polish" are actually a compound.
I hope this makes it clear as mud.
So after using compound or polish I should use a sealant to finish it off, correct? Sealant lasts longer than wax.
 
  #34  
Old 02-28-2012, 10:25 AM
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Originally Posted by bansheerider
So after using compound or polish I should use a sealant to finish it off, correct? Sealant lasts longer than wax.
After the paint is polished it is no longer protected and needs LSP.

Polish with med then fine polish (compound) M105/M205, UC/UP etc.
Clean paint with IPA spray and MF towel (Isopropyl alcohol - diluted 3:1)
Apply LSP of choice. Wax can be applied on top of sealant (beading, look etc.)

If this is the first time this is done then I may suggest washing with Dawn (blue).
This will insure the surface is clean and free of any "left over" LSP products.

Basics:

Washing...
Use the 2 bucket method.
Sheet water and dry.

Clay...
Use clay bar on paint after washing.
Use baggie method to check paint

Polish...
Use Kevin Brown Method with a DA
Correction-Remove defects (M105, UC etc.)
Finishing polish to bring gloss (M205, UP etc.)

LSP
Apply protection
 
  #35  
Old 02-28-2012, 11:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Merlin
After the paint is polished it is no longer protected and needs LSP.

Polish with med then fine polish (compound) M105/M205, UC/UP etc.
Clean paint with IPA spray and MF towel (Isopropyl alcohol - diluted 3:1)
Apply LSP of choice. Wax can be applied on top of sealant (beading, look etc.)

If this is the first time this is done then I may suggest washing with Dawn (blue).
This will insure the surface is clean and free of any "left over" LSP products.

Basics:

Washing...
Use the 2 bucket method.
Sheet water and dry.

Clay...
Use clay bar on paint after washing.
Use baggie method to check paint

Polish...
Use Kevin Brown Method with a DA
Correction-Remove defects (M105, UC etc.)
Finishing polish to bring gloss (M205, UP etc.)

LSP
Apply protection
The ultimate compound is the same as polish correct? After using the UC I can apply sealant? Or should I use ultimate polish then sealant after the compound?

Sorry for the questions. I am new at this and new at using an DA.
 
  #36  
Old 02-28-2012, 11:54 AM
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polish THEN sealant.

my hood after M105 compound, M205 polish and NXT 2.0 sealant synwax

 
  #37  
Old 02-28-2012, 12:18 PM
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If you choose the Megs MF kit you will need to "clean" the disc between panels.
Do you have an air compressor?
You don't necessarily need a compressor. Megs makes a pad cleaning brush for the MF pads. ADS has a really well put together MF kit:

http://www.autodetailingsolutions.ne...ction-kit.html

The Meguiar's G110V2 Dual-Action Polisher Microfiber Paint Correction Kit Includes:

- Meguiar's G110V2 Polisher with 1-year factory warranty
- One Meguiar's W68DA Velcro Backing Plate For W9207 Foam Finishing Pad
- One Meguiar's W67DA Velcro Backing Plate For Microfiber Discs
- Two Meguiar's 5" Microfiber DA Cutting Discs
- Two Meguiar's 5" Microfiber DA Finishing Discs
- One Meguiar's W9207 Foam Finishing Pad (For Synthetic Sealant)
- One Meguiar's D30016 Microfiber Compound (16 oz.)
- One Meguiar's D30116 Microfiber Finishing Wax (16 oz.)
- One Meguiar's M2112 Synthetic Sealant (12 oz.)
- One FREE Meguiar's Duffle Bag!
- One FREE Microfiber Disc Conditioning Brush.
- FREE Shipping!
There are posts on the Megs forum describing the proper use of the system, including how to clean the pads with the brush.
 
  #38  
Old 02-28-2012, 12:25 PM
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Originally Posted by dixie_boysles
polish THEN sealant.

my hood after M105 compound, M205 polish and NXT 2.0 sealant synwax

Ok so compound, polish, then sealant/wax, got it. I thought the compound was same as polish. It makes sense that polish would brighten up what the compound did. How do you like the NXT sealant?
 
  #39  
Old 02-28-2012, 12:26 PM
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Originally Posted by bansheerider
So after using compound or polish I should use a sealant to finish it off, correct? Sealant lasts longer than wax.


Yes, that is usually the case. If you don't like the look of the sealant, you can always go over the top of the sealant with a good carnauba wax.


If you have problems, or need some help .. give me a shout .. you are welcome to come by the shop when I am there some evening or weekend.
 
  #40  
Old 02-28-2012, 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Gipraw
Yes, that is usually the case. If you don't like the look of the sealant, you can always go over the top of the sealant with a good carnauba wax.


If you have problems, or need some help .. give me a shout .. you are welcome to come by the shop when I am there some evening or weekend.
Sounds good. My wife's car won't need compound in every spot of the car. I'll just have to remember to follow up on it with some polish and not go straight into wax or sealant. My truck has only 14K miles and the paint is still great. Easy step process with the truck, not so much with the wife's car. Thanks for the advice!
 
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Old 02-28-2012, 12:42 PM
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Originally Posted by bansheerider
The ultimate compound is the same as polish correct? After using the UC I can apply sealant? Or should I use ultimate polish then sealant after the compound?

Sorry for the questions. I am new at this and new at using an DA.
I have found both the M105/M205 and Ultimate Compound/Ultimate Polish at local auto parts stores

Think of it like this...
Correction, followed by finishing, followed by LSP

Aggressive order (most to least)

Correction:
M105
Ultimate Compound

Finish:
M205
Ultimate Polish

Jeweling:
Menz PO85RD

TIP:
If you use M105 take a small travel bottle and put baby oil in it
Lightly mist the LC orange pad with baby oil before applying M105
 
  #42  
Old 02-28-2012, 12:45 PM
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Originally Posted by bansheerider
Sounds good. My wife's car won't need compound in every spot of the car. I'll just have to remember to follow up on it with some polish and not go straight into wax or sealant. My truck has only 14K miles and the paint is still great. Easy step process with the truck, not so much with the wife's car. Thanks for the advice!
When I do a vehicle I do the entire vehicle. After you wash (via 2BM) do a baggie test.

Put your hand in a baggie and feel the clean paint. Do you feel grit? if so, clay before polishing.
 
  #43  
Old 02-28-2012, 12:49 PM
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Baggie test sounds cool. Thanks for mentioning that. You guys learn all this stuff by watching YouTube or what? Lol. So far this forum has been great as far as learning new techniques.
 



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