I have just purchased a new Toyota Tacoma in dark grey. I was previously using Meguiars products on my last vehicle 2000 4-Runner but not for awhile. I have the following Meguiars products:

Gold class car wash
Gold class vinyl/rubber protectant
Hot shine spray
Quik detailer
Quik wax
M7 Show car glaze
M9 Swirl remover 2.0
M26 Liquid
SwirlX
NXT2.0

I also have MF towels, terry cloth towels, some glass cleaner without ammonia (cant remember the name brand), wheel cleaner, chamois, mitt with high nap.

First question...anything else that I need something that I am missing?

I need to use the #7 then the #26...correct? Any need for the NXT? Also since it is a new car I should not have to use the #9 or swirlx yet...correct?

I want to keep this thing as pristine as I can.

I had bought a cheap polisher...not sure if it DA or rotary or what (have not used it forever). Should I use this, do it by hand or buy a nice DA?

Thanks in advance guys.

 

If you have not read the detailing sticky and dictionay at the top of the main page that is a good place to start. The buffer that you bought is only good for applying wax and thats about it because it doesnt have enough uummph to do any correction that you might need to do later on.

 

I did read it but it does not tell which waxes are cleaners, polishers or just waxes...in fact I have it printed for home references.

 

Polish and wax are two different things completely.

 

What goals are you trying to achieve? The truck is new now but what about a year down the road from now when you start seeing more swirls and maring in the paint? Do you just want to wash and wax the truck or do you want to have a flawless finish and keep it that way? Are you going to do this by hand or by machine and since you have a smaller truck by hand wouldnt be that hard but using a DA or a rotory would be the easiest. I know you have some product but how much are willing to invest in product and machines to get the results that you want? These are all things that need to be thought about before you start on this long slow downward spiral in to the OCD world. I am kidding about that last part well kind of.

 

Flawless. I would like to do it the easiest...so by machine. What is a good one to get? I have a cheapo walmart brand for putting on wax but what would be a good all around for most everything? I am willing to invest some money to keep it looking good. I am kind of OCD anyway when it comes to hobbies, chores...so I think that I can keep up.

 

I would look into a package from ADS with either the G110 from Meguairs or get a PC7424XP will be the easiest and most user friendly and it will be hard for you to damage your paint with one of these. Here are a couple links for you to check out. The Autogeek site has a bunch of pretty cool tutorials on the DA that you can check out. Also look at some of the polishes and other products on both sites and they have them seperated by catogory which will make it a little easier to understand. Hope this helps and dont be afraid to ask questions.


http://www.autodetailingsolutions.ne...polishers.html

http://www.autogeek.net/

 

I will say Flawless and easiest way do not go together.

Maybe it does based upon your definition of flawless.

The route I use :
clay ( good thing to do on a new car for rail dust )
#81 with an orange power pad
PoorBoy Black hole ( dark paint glaze, they also have a light version ) on a white pad.
#26 with a black / gray pad ( layering pad ).

Some times I will do 2 coats of #26, but this is wax, so it is only good for ~ 45 days depending on temperatures and if you are outside parking ( could be as low as 30 days ).

I am using an old PC 7424. I read the reviews and bought into the G110, and I cannot tell the difference between the 2. I know the PC is going to let loose some day ( it is about 12 years old ), so I have the G110 if/when this happens ( and it is more serious than motor brushes ).

I have used Autogeek, Properautocare, and one other site I cannot recall right now.

I did get the hook and loop 6" lambs wool pad, to use the Microfiber bonnet on. That saves some shoulder strain, and the finish does seem to turn out better.

I am not the expert by any means, just trial and error method with research.

 

If you want to use both NXT and 26, use the NXT first then top it with 26 after a 12 hour cure. If you do it the other way around, the NXT will remove the 26.