thats probably why i shop at home depot, are there any threads on properly using a clay bar
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05 F150 SCREW, FX4 5.4L CAI,2" LEVELING KIT, **** CEPAK 33'S ON M/T 18'S BRUSHGUARD, ALL VISORS, LID,STRAIGHT PIPE CAT BACK NO MUFFLER,LED TAILS, REMOVED FX4 STICKER FROM BED, HID PROJECTION HEADS--------CHEVY IS NOT AN OPTION
05 F150 SCREW, FX4 5.4L CAI,2" LEVELING KIT, **** CEPAK 33'S ON M/T 18'S BRUSHGUARD, ALL VISORS, LID,STRAIGHT PIPE CAT BACK NO MUFFLER,LED TAILS, REMOVED FX4 STICKER FROM BED, HID PROJECTION HEADS--------CHEVY IS NOT AN OPTION
If the issue is to remove contaminents, fine, clay bar will remove contaminents that are on top of the paint, but this is the same as "wet-sanding" - if it's required, use a good quality clay bar product- something rated in the neighborhood of 5000 or finer. If your looking to remove contaminents from the pores of the paint, clay bar will not remove those- event the docs, repeated publshing from the oems in the service manuals & PPG from 1990 to 2009 all state such.
Personally, I would rather use a product that dissolves a surface contaminent than "sand" the paint. The thicker the clearcoat, the better looking and longer the oem paint will last.
This is not only my opinion, but those who claim to be "Professional Detailers & Suppliers" who deny or reject these directives that are based upon scientific, demonstrated, validated facts are mis-leading, falsely advertizing and committing fraud upon their clientelle
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If the issue is to remove contaminents, fine, clay bar will remove contaminents that are on top of the paint, but this is the same as "wet-sanding" - if it's required, use a good quality clay bar product- something rated in the neighborhood of 5000 or finer. If your looking to remove contaminents from the pores of the paint, clay bar will not remove those- event the docs, repeated publshing from the oems in the service manuals & PPG from 1990 to 2009 all state such.
Personally, I would rather use a product that dissolves a surface contaminent than "sand" the paint. The thicker the clearcoat, the better looking and longer the oem paint will last.
This is not only my opinion, but those who claim to be "Professional Detailers & Suppliers" who deny or reject these directives that are based upon scientific, demonstrated, validated facts are mis-leading, falsely advertizing and committing fraud upon their clientelle
Why in the heck did you resurrect a two month old post to spew this crap at us again!!!
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Dave
2006 F350 CC FX4 6.0 PSD
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Also, clay bar is not a recommended procedure/product by Ford, GM, Chrysler for removal of any paint contaminent (as stated in the factory service manuals) nor by PPG, GE or Sherwin Williams (the 3 most prominent auto paint mfg's in the US). While there are specific (and very limited) uses for claybar, i would not recommend using any "name brand retailer's" off the shelf product. The question to ask yourself is this, "would I wet sand my paint to solve this imperfection?" Thats what claybar does- Meguiar's for example has a grit rating of 3500 (approx)- and is considered to be very coarse by industry standards (as compared to professional spec products such as Prowax whose clay bar is rated at 5000 grit).
This is not only my opinion, but those who claim to be "Professional Detailers & Suppliers" who deny or reject these directives that are based upon scientific, demonstrated, validated facts are mis-leading, falsely advertizing and committing fraud upon their clientelle
These "professional detailer and suppliers"... is this like Meguiar's who work with PPG and auto manufactures on the development of clay? How about all the 20+ year veteran detailer on MOL that feel you are full of crap? How about all the professional detailer here that think the same? Where are these "professional detailer and suppliers" you mention? Don't worry, I know you don't respond to posts as you have _nothing_ but 10 year old manuals to back up the crap you post.
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