#1 Typically speaking, how thick (in thousanth's) are the clear coats on most factory paint jobs, or more specifically, for our F150's ?

#2 About how much clear coat does a typical swirl removal polishing remove ?

And of course, these two questions will answer the 3rd.... about how many swirl removal polishings can a clear coat withstand, before you start to break through.

Note: I TOTALLY understand that their must be a million and one variables, and also, their might be spots where the clear coat is thicker / thinner, or, areas that require more polishing / swirl removal. So, I'd have to guess a person might break through one spot of their clear coat in 3 polishing, yet never break through other areas in 15 polishings.....

Just trying to get a general idea about how easy / hard it is to break through ones clear coat. I mean, how often do people start out with great intentions of bringing the beauty back to their vehicle.... then break through the clear coat, and end up detstroying their paint job ???

And BTW, when they do break through, is it instantly obvious, and look totally horrible ?

Thank you,
Fish

 

Someone else correct me if I'm wrong, but paint thickness is measured in microns. The thickness definitely varies from car to car, and is even more affected if any parts have been repainted. As an example, let's take paint 100 microns thick...

Forget where I read this, but I believe you'd remove about 1/8 of a micron each time you polish you car completely. Once you've corrected your finish, however, you're rarely going to do a full polish. You may only do some spot polishing to hit swirls and whatnot. You also won't be using a heavy cut pad or compound after a good full detail. So every polishing after the first major one will remove even less.

With a DA (which I believe you have), you'd have to polish your car thousands of times to make a dent. If you manage to break through to your paint you probably should have let a professional do it in the first place. I think you're safe.

 

Right on. That's good news. {yes, I have a DA machine} Especially since there were some spots on my car (fine scratches around the door handle, and a scuff from a little eff up on my part) where I really layed on it. I mean I kept the DA moving, but after about the 5th time of going over the same spot with 105, I was really starting to get concerned. Those spots came out great though..... like 95% corrected... or, should I say, where you would really have to look close, from the right angle, to see anything.

The other reason I ask, is that while I agree you shouldn't have to do another full cutting 105 polish (twice in a row) I've since found some areas of the car that I should have taken down just a bit more (I left some of the deepest swirls) and the next time, I'd like to use 105 with a burgundy pad, first. I'm thinking that with the burgundy cutting pad, maybe I wouldn't have to (should not) put so much pressure on the machine, to get the job done.

Peace,
Fish

 

Fish this may help you a little

http://meguiarsonline.com/forums/sho...ar+coat&page=3

 

Thanks for the link--very informative. I don't think Chris will be sanding anytime soon, though. (Nor will I ) It seems the actual polishing only took out .1 mil, and that was with a wool pad and rotary.

 

Most excellent writeup ! Much thanks for that link Pmason.
{and to think.... I actually have a few goofball buddies who ask, "Why do you spend so much time on those $%#$# forums...."

Well, right there is why ! > For the answer to questions my goofball buddies couldn't posibly answer ;-)

Hey Mblouir ...well not on my paint, no. On the other hand, "I've been totally thinking about some 1000 and 2000 grit sand paper, either on my DA machine (how would one attach that ?) or on my little sanding machine (its the kind that shakes forward and back, in like 1/4" strokes) on my Landlords headlights.... and especially, on his wife's Toyota Camry headlights. They look freaking terrible !

I did his BMW Z4 headlights with the DA machine and 105, then wax, and they look way better than before, but I can tell that I didn't cut deep enough to begin with.

His wifes Camry is so bad, I don't even want to bother starting with 105.... but rather 1000 grit, then 2000, then M105.

I'm thinking about just using my sander, and putting a thin backing of sponge rubber between it and the sand paper, to help prevent flat spots, on these headlights with compound curves.

Sound like a plan ?

Did I just hi-jack my own thread ? ;-)

Peace,
Fish

 

This is by rotary, but DA should use the same process:
http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums...ad.php?t=21134

 

Fish I'm not sure where your located but if you get a chance you should really try to attend one of the Meguiars classes. I was fortunate enough to attend one this past March in Florida (Autogeek's Detail Fest) and not only did I learn a lot I had a lot of fun.

 

Chris:

https://www.f150online.com/forums/ca...ads-2-kit.html

Well worth the money if you need to do several restorations. It's a lot easier working with a drill and a small pad than with a DA. Sanding by hand with the block gets them good enough for the 105.