I have a 1996 White f150 that was a work truck in it's past life. The paint is very dull and hasn't been consistently waxed in a while. I have done the meguiar's 3 step process a few times. I am going to look for some clay this afternoon at the auto parts stores. If I go with the clay and then the 3 step process, do y'all have any additional suggestions? Thanks

 

I'd give the three-step process a whirl and I think you'll see pretty good results.

With a finish that has been somewhat neglected over the past 7+ years, I'd have a hunch that you have some oxidation that probably needs to be dealt with... for this, I would highly recommend doubling up on the 'cleaner' and 'polish' step.

So,

Wash EXTREMELY well. Pay close attention to body lines and very dirty areas. Avoid dragging a dirty wash mitt or wash sponge across any other areas. Be sure to rinse the mitt inbetween areas that are dirty to avoid further scratching/etc.

Clay. I take it you're comfortable with this step? You'll probably want to do the ENTIRE vehicle and, if this is the first time it's ever been done, you'll probably have to be fairly agressive with your clay use.

Cleaner (I'd use this step twice).

Polish (I'd use this step twice as well)

Carnauba Wax (step 3), I'd do this one at least twice too.

Good luck and feel free to drop another post if you have additional questions!

RP

 

I have never done clay before but I have read about it on this site. I have done the three steps several times but the finish still feels sort of rough. That is why I think I should do the clay. I found a small bar packaged with a bottle of quick detailer. is this little bar going to doo the entire truck? Where can I find the clay by itself? I don't need any more quick detailer. If there are any pointers that I should know before I start to clay, let me know. Thanks alot!

 

You'll be surprised at how far the clay bar will last. Just follow the directions and occasionally re-work it. Doubt you'll find the clay bar by itself since they all need some type of lubricant to work with. If you can, try and get your hands on an orbital buffer. May help especially with the cleaner.

 

Well, I'm too lazy to do a lot of typing, so I'll copy and paste another article I did on "Claying" for another website:

Claying your paint:

Claying your paint is an excellent way to clean contaminates that are stuck to the paint surface. Keep in mind that claying does NOT take the place of a thorough paint cleaning, which cleans into the pores of the paint, but rather, claying enhances the paint cleaning process, helping to get the paint surface smooth and slick.

There are two favored claying processes, and I will attempt to cover them both here, and let you be the judge of the one you prefer.

Tools & Products:

1 good size clay bar - depending on the size, 2 might be better.
1 bottle of QD - a QD with no wax in it
2 or more quality towels - MF or 100% cotton.

Or, for process 2:

1 good size clay bar - again, 2 might be better
1 bucket of car wash suds - use a car wash that contains a lot of lubricants
1 high quality car wash mitt
1 or 2 Waffle weave drying towel(s)

NOTE: Some manufacturers make several grades of clay bars. Always opt for the "fine" or lighter aggressive bar, rather than the "mild", or more aggressive bars. The more aggressive bars are used mostly to remove isolated paint overspray, and are too abrasive more doing a complete vehicle for normal detailing prep.

Process 1 (using a QD)
First, start by washing, and drying the vehicle properly following the steps in the "Proper vehicle washing" thread. Also, work in a shaded area, on a cool paint surface.

Next, take a clay bar, and cut into halves, or thirds, if size permits. Flatten each portion into a "patty" so to speak. I have a nice thick piece of clean Plexiglas that I use to flatten the clay.

Now, mist about a 2-foot by 2-foot section or so of the paint with the QD. Use enough QD to keep the area well lubricated, without going crazy with the amount of QD. I've seen people use an entire bottle of QD to clay their vehicle..... that's a bit too much.

Then, using the clay patty, lightly go over the QD'ed area in a back and forth motion (don't use circular motions here). Don't press hard........... let the clay do the work. You should be able to "feel" the clay picking the contaminates up from the paint surface. After doing the area, lightly rub your hand over the paint to see if you feel any remaining rough spots. If still feel rough spots, do the area again using the same process.

If the clay sticks to the paint suface, and leaves clay residue on the paint, you'll need to use just a bit more QD, or work a smaller area. It takes a bit of getting use too, but you'll get the knack of how much QD you need to apply in order to keep the paint lubricated. Keep in mind, that's it's better to err on the side of too much lubrication, than not enough............... as clay with contaminates in it, can cause scratches................. even on a well lubricated surface.

Once you've completed claying that 2 by 2 foot area or so, wipe the excess QD off with your towel.

While claying, keep an eye on the clay.............. if it looks dirty (and it usually will rather quickly), flip it to the other side, until that side is dirty too. Then "knead" the clay until you have a clean, fresh area of clay............. flatten again, and continue claying. If you cannot knead the clay clean, throw it away, and grab a new piece.

One very important note here.................... if you drop the clay bar on the ground............... throw it away, as the dirt the clay picks up can cause a "paint disaster" (Hence, one of the reason for have a few pieces of clay)

Finish claying the vehicle, and check for clay residue. If you see some, you can quickly re-wash the vehicle or areas with residue, and move on to the paint cleaning process (cleaning into the pores and crevices of the paint). Some people like to move right to the paint cleaning/polishing process even if there is clay residue on the paint........... I don't.

Process 2 (using car wash) I actually prefer this process better, as I find it faster................ although, some say it's not as thorough as using the QD method. Being that I am going to clean the paint afterwards with some type of paint cleaner or polish, that doesn't bother me.

Following the first step above in Process 1.............. wash and dry the vehicle.

Now, with your wash mitt, and a bucket of fresh suds, soap up a rather large section of paint (half a hood or so as an example). Using the same back and forth motion, lightly clay that section of paint, grab a mitt full of suds, and wash that area again, and rinse thoroughly. Again, if the clay seems to be leaving residue behind, you may need to use more lubricant (suds), or work a smaller area.

One thing you need to be concerned about using this process is keeping the paint surface wet, until you get the chance to dry it. However, if you use this process, you will find that the claying will be done a lot quicker.

Another problem you might incur using the car wash process is that some clay bars don't work well with car wash suds, and will literally "fall apart". It helps if you don't put the clay bar in the bucket of suds.

Anyhow, even if you don't use process 2 for the initial complete vehicle claying, you can use it to quickly do the horizontal paint surface (these areas take the most abuse), during the detailing season, for quick touch ups.

Have fun!

 

Boss, thanks you covered everything. I will get to it as soon as I am not working, fishing and the weather permits. I will have this truck looking great before my tubing trip in a couple of weeks. I am still reading up on the rotary polishers.. I dont know what I need yet; DA or rotary, wich brand etc. I wil keep reading y'all's posts until I figure it out. BOSS Thanks again, that was great.

 

Damn Boss... nice post!

 

Thanks guys!