My original front calipers are siezing and I need to replace my front calipers, brake lines, pads & rotors on my 2005 FX4. Without spending an arm and a leg, what do you suggest for replacements for all? I don't haul anything and 99.99% of my driving is on the highway.
My original front calipers are siezing and I need to replace my front calipers, brake lines, pads & rotors on my 2005 FX4. Without spending an arm and a leg, what do you suggest for replacements for all? I don't haul anything and 99.99% of my driving is on the highway.
Thanks
Skid
I can only recommend what I have experience with. I just put Brembo slotted rotors and Hawk LTS pads. I went to tirerack.com. They have non slotted rotors for 80 per rotor. Hawk pads were 75. They also have G-Stop lines by goodridge. I have no experience with the calipers. get yourself a haynes manual they go over rebuilding the calipers. Due to the fact that I got slotted rotors my price was up rotors 236.00 and 75 for pads delivered for 388 and change. Good luck and I hope I was able to answer your questions.
I myself go to Carquest because a friend works there. Just so happens that he hooks up with top notch stuff too!!! I'd go there, but if you do, don't get pads with part numbers beginning with "G". Your lines should be good still and calipers aren't cheap so make sure they are shot before you go pissin good money away. Not to sound like a arrogant SOB, just watchin out for ya!
What would cause the front calipers to sieze? Maybe the dust from the pads?
I don't understand that either. Mine are working fine on my 2002. I just bought slotted rotors from rotorpros ($235) for all 4. Picked up Front & Rear Hawk LTS pads for $130 @buybrakes.com. Should have both before the weekend.
I was told they siezed due to the corrotion of the inside brake lines. I don't understand it either, but I decided to get a second opinion. I definately need the rotors and pads, so I'm going to go ahead and get them, but hold off on the calipers until I know for sure.
Anyone against the ceramic pads, especially since most of my driving is highway. Plus, I with the Moto Metal wheels, I need to eliminate dust.
I'm told that ceramic pads produce more heat and are more likely to warp your rotors. If your getting new rotors ask the company you're getting them from. I just ordered Hawk LTS pads, they are not ceramic but are supposed to be a low dust pad.
I was told they siezed due to the corrotion of the inside brake lines. I don't understand it either, but I decided to get a second opinion. I definately need the rotors and pads, so I'm going to go ahead and get them, but hold off on the calipers until I know for sure.
Anyone against the ceramic pads, especially since most of my driving is highway. Plus, I with the Moto Metal wheels, I need to eliminate dust.
That sounds really odd. Calipers siezing on a 2005? Doesn't sound right. Usually only one caliper siezes at a time. When that happens, the brakes on one side of the truck will wear very quickly and the other side will be fine. If you take the calipers off you won't be able to push the piston back in if they are siezed. You should probably get a second opinion like you said.
I have had Wagner ThermoQuiets in my truck for 65,000 miles. They are a high quality semi-metallic pad. Extremely low dust, and still lots of pad left. They are excellent stopping as well. I replaced my rotors about 35,000 miles ago due to bearing failure and did not change the pads. Never a squeak or problem.
__________________
Jim
Flowmaster 40, K&N dropin, Tint, Roush wheels, 305/50/20s
Edge Evo with PHP custom tunes, GF 2" shackles
Especially since you do the majority of driving on the highway, you don't need brakes and rotors that cost alot, so stay with local part store Carquest, NAPA, etc stuff. Wagner ^, Carquest (Raybestos) or even Bendix pads will do fine, get ones warrantied as it may be worth it, or just good piece of mind. Pick some rotors up too, I myself would stay away from cross drilled, but maybe slotted. Calipers are fine, people look too far into brake line corrosion, seizing etc. I still have the original, Nov. 1999 and 210k km brake fluid in mine, have added only a bit since. Compressing the pistons too fast will loose you fluid easily, that's why. Once you do the brakes, if a caliper is leaking even a drop, then replace it. No leaks and easily compressed? Don't worry. Nine times out of ten, a leak will pop up and you change the fluid anyways before any problems occur due to old fluid. Some people actually change it on a regular basis. Don't ask me why, but myself, I don't have the time or money to piss away doing it. Chances are the same a leak happens on theirs the same as mine.
Look at my gallery for pics of how much brake dust I don't get with Carquest semi-metallics, blue line. The inner rim hadn't been washed in 6-10 months I think, 10-20k km's anyways. Outside was 2-3 weeks maybe.
Last edited by BLUE20004X4; 10-09-2008 at 11:06 AM.
I honestly know of no other way to access my pics other than to post as I've done, then copy/paste as before. I've done it another way by mistake, only time I wished I'd of never learned from mistakes!!!!!
Linear Mode
