Has anyone here installed a canopy over a ladder rack and needed to cut the canopy lip?

I've got a Kargo Master Pro II over-canopy style. I've also got a Century Ultra canopy that has a lip that goes over the bedrail on the outside. To make the two work together I've either got to cut notches in the lip where the ladder rack mount plates extend from the bed rail, or cut the entire lip off altogether.

I'm leaning towards just notching, but when I was originally looking at buy the rack and canopy new from a shop they were including labor in the quote to remove the entire lip.

Thoughts on which way to go, or direct experience with this combo?

Also, what best to cut it with? Diamond grit disc on angle grinder? Multitool? Or something else?

 

How much lip overhang are we talking about?
If it's less than an inch can't you just shim the entire shell up so that the outer lip is even with the plate?
I'd rather have lumber custom cut for all three sides and double side the boards with camper shell foam tape.

If it's less than a inch up, a slightly wider rubber strip on the back door would cover any gap.
Raising the cap an inch won't be any more unsightly than going at fiberglass with a sawzall.

 

I hear what you're saying. The lip is substantial. I tested the shim idea with a couple of 2x4s, so 1.5" shim - and it would still not be quite enough, maybe 1.75" would be needed. Of course, this cranks the door lip well off the tailgate as well.

The previous owner of this ladder rack said he shimmed his canopy, but I don't know what the lip dimensions were on his (he had sold his truck and canopy prior to selling the rack).

 

Sounds like you have to cut canopy, no experience with that.

I would only have to shim the actual height of the mounting bracket because my canopy doesn't even extend the outermost of the bedrail.

 

You'll be cutting fiberglass. If you've ever messed with that, you'll know the dust will be downright HAZARDOUS.

Respirator, or suffer. Trust me.

Now then, a good ol' DeWalt 4" angle grinder and some cutoff wheels, and maybe some abrasive paper wheels, and you should be fine. If you're careful with the direction of the wheel, you can cut down into the paint, instead of up away from the paint. That'll minimize chipping and cracking to the paint. Go get some automotive touch-up paint close to the cap's color, and you can camouflage the notches.

Use blue painter's tape to tape your template. Don't cut into the tape, and you're fine. You can also use a Dremel with a sanding drum to clean and bevel the finished edges, or maybe a few files or sanding blocks. Hell, even a few nail files, if you really wanna get detailed and careful.

Cut slow. Use a wet rag to wipe away dust. Shop-Vac whenever you can.