I finally got around to installing my Herculiner this weekend. (I've seen all the others, but couldn't justify the extra money right now... I got the Herculiner kit for $45 after being on sale and a $20 rebate!). I've read through the forum and seen tips around various threads, but I thought I'd compile my list of recommendations here.
First off, I have a 2004 FX4 with the 6.5 foot bed, styleside. You can see from this picture that I do indeed use it as a truck and the bed was rather beat-up from loading/unloading things:
(BTW - the outside of the truck is in very good shape... just the inside of the truck bed that gets beat)
Additional Supplies
- Sanding Pads (see below)
- Aluminum Oxide sandpaper (handy if the bed is really scratched)
- 1 Paint brush (cheap one for second coat, easier than cleaning the one from the first coat)
- 2" Painter's tape
- Torx drivers (if you don't already have them)
- Dowel Rod (5/16" or 3/8" - see below)
Prep work - plan on 4-5 hours for cleaning, sanding, and masking.
- I started by taking off the tie-down brackets, pulling the plastic side caps off, and taking out the plastic covers on the access holes at the front of the bed. To pull off the plastic side caps, I used my fingers to pinch the clips under the edge of the bed. There are also clips on the outside edge that you can't get to, but they popped out ok for me.
- I also removed the rubber L-shaped brackets that keep the tailgate from rattling and then posts that the tailgate latches onto. This allowed room to bring the coating around the edge (see the masking pictures).
- after pulling off the plastic caps, I took it to a car wash and sprayed out the truck. Its good to do this after the caps because there was a lot of dust that collected under them. This was also a good chance to get the various dirt and mulch and whatnot sprayed out of the drains at the front of the bed.
- Buy some foam sanding pads to save time and effort. Thanks to the tip I read in another thread, I bought a 12-pack of medium grit pads and found them to be much easier than using the green scotch pad in the kit. Though the green pad is good for getting in some of the smaller spots. I also used some Aluminum Oxide sandpaper to smooth out some of the deeper scratches. There were many spots that were scratched through to bare metal.
- Either wear a mask or have a good fan going when sanding - I had a fan going to help clear the dust away from where I was working. This way it blows out of the garage instead of clouding up around where you sand.
- after sanding around the edge (so I know where to tape) I removed the tailgate access panel and plastic cap. I used a combination of a screwdriver and my fingers to pop the clips loose on the plastic cap without breaking them.
- now just spend a few hours sanding everything down.
- once done sanding, I used an air compressor to blow out the dust.
- now I taped everything off with 2" painter's tape. Here are some pics of where I masked the lines.
- Don't forget to mask the drain holes. I used a piece of a wood shim to help press the tape into place - very helpful for the drain holes, but also helpful for the rest of the masking job.
- I also used tape to cover the area over the tailgate mechanism. I didn't want to risk getting a random drip into the workings.
- Now I went around with the sanding pad to make sure the paint was scuffed right up to the tape. Then of course I had to blow out the dust I created.
- After that was all done, I wiped down the bed with Acetone. Be sure to have a mask on or a big fan running - the fumes get pretty bad. Today I noticed that one of the threads suggests wiping the surface down 3 times. I didn't see that beforehand, but it sounds like a good idea I guess.
- I wanted to coat the 6 main bolts/washers that hold the bed in place, but I didn't want to fill the Torx "hole" (there's probably a better term) with Herculiner. I had some 5/16" diameter wooden dowel rod laying around, so I cut it into about 1" long pieces and tapped it into the Torx "hole". This was a nice tight fit. I removed the dowel rod after I was done and now I can get the bolts out if ever needed.
Application of Herculiner - plan on about 2 hours per coat
- I just followed the instructions. Start by brushing the coners (dab, don't drag the brush). Then roll the sides. Then roll the bed.
- Be sure to have tons of ventilation (or a mask). I had the truck in the garage (detached garage) with the main door and side door open. I have an old furnace blower that I wired as a fan so it was moving tons of air through... and I still felt some effects I think. I barely slept last night as my heart was kind of racing, the only thing I can figure is that it was due to some of the fumes - probably not exactly healthy.
- I put the access panel on some sawhorses outside. I recommend taping the back of the panel so drips aren't an issue - tape the holes and all around the edge. Or run a rag around the edge after both coats (I did this since I didn't think to tape it till I had half the first coat on and started noticing some drips on the edges).
- I left about 5 hours between coats. I'd recommend leaving more like 12 hours if it will work in your schedule. I was barefoot for the second coat as I was worried that shoes may scuff the first. The liner was dry enough to not damage it, but tacky enough that if I didn't move around I would stick pretty good. Hence, I recommend 12 or so hours between coats. I got in this morning to take out the remainder of the tape and it wasn't really sticky any more (and it was about 12 hours later).
- - - I saw someone in another post recommend using an extension handle to roll the second coat. This sounds nice, but you won't be able to get into the corners with a brush and it would be really hard to make sure the second coat went down even.
- I had about 1 cup of Herculiner left over. I poured it into a glass jar to keep it for touching up any dings/chips in the bed.
- After the second coat dried for about 30 minutes, I carefully pulled the tape off. Its good to get all the tape off you can right away so the edge of the coating doesn't stick to the tape.
- Here's what it looks like:
- and here is the access panel sitting next to the plastic caps
- I pulled the tape off the front of the bed (little access panels, drain holes) the following morning as I had to climb into the truck bed. Since it was dry I had to cut the edges with a razor.
- I'm going to put the rest of the hardware back on tomorrow. I'll take a couple pics and post them.
Time will tell how it holds up. I expect to need to touch it up once in awhile based on everything I've heard. I didn't use the UV Stabilizer, mainly because the local stores don't carry it and I didn't think to order it till it was too late. If it fades too much, I'll coat it with the stabilizer later. And if it chips too much I'll put a rubber mat over it. Like I said earlier, I know its not as good as the LineX or RhinoLiner, but it was also 10% of the cost.
Best of luck to all the DIYers! Hopefully you find this helpful
i have had my hurculiner for over three years now, i use my bed alot alittle touch up with some black paint and it looks good as new again
__________________ 03 F-150 5.4 FX4 with HD supercharger swap at 10PSI, 6" fabtech with PA 3" body lift, 38"15.5" MT Baja claws, on 16" 10" extreem aloys, fabtech steering stabilizer, procomp traction bars, pro comp add a leaf, cranked torsion bars,4.88 gears, detroit locker in rear, ARB locker up front, troyer E-fans, X-cal 2 tuned by Sal, FTVB shift kit, on board air system, TONS OF CUSTOM MODS, AND ONE UNSTOPPABLE BEAST
I just completed my truck this past weekend as well. I agree about taking your time and doing it right. I spent all of Friday prepping mine then putting on the first coat. I waited a little over 12 hours though before putting on my second coat. mine was dry to the touch in between coats so I did not have a problem with stepping on it when applying the second coat. After it was done I found a few small areas the I will touch up. Overall I am satisfied, time will tell in the long run.
Excellent write-up, with pics...I have used Herculiner in four of my own trucks and done two others for relatives. As stated, it may not hold up as well as Line-x etc, but when you're on a budget, it can't be beat. It's really nice when you can find it on sale, plus get a rebate...I've done that also.
I have also had a little excess left over that I put in a jar. You will discover that unless your jar seals airtight, it will be hard as a rock in a short time, and useless for patch-ups.
I have had it in my KR now for 3 1/2 years without any marks, and that includes moving, hauling lumber and yard supplies, etc. I care for my truck and don't throw crap in the bed either, but, it does stay in place pretty well.
My buddy with his '07 F250 is debating between Line-X and having me do his with Herculiner.
Maybe this will stop some of the "bashing" of Herculiner??? To each his own.
__________________
Smith & Wesson Model 19, .357 Mag or Beretta 92FS 9mm
Gibson Swept Side Exhaust, Stainless Steel
K&N FIPK
Herculiner Bed liner
Westin Bed Extender
Royal Purple Lubricants in Diffs, Tranny, and T-Case
Smittybilt Bumper Thumper, (Chrome)
Hella Driving Lights
Rancho RS5000 Shocks
Cab Vent-visors
Dee Zee Black Chrome Tool Box
I Love This Truck
Looks nice, I have been on the fence about doing the Herculiner but your truck looks good. I also heard that it is all about the prep time you put into it. Can you take some pictures of it out in the sunlight? Thanks for the great write up.
__________________ 2002 Supercrew~~Helo Maxx 6 Rims~~285/70/17 Nitto Terra Grappler~~Rancho Shocks~~Magnaflow High Flow Cats~~Magnaflow 14" Exhaust~~Volant Air intake~~XcalII from Troyer~~Viper 160xv remote start
Looks great! I was on my way to Oreilly Auto Parts to pick up $100 Herculiner kit today, but I stopped by Wal-Mart and to my surprise they had it for $75 and only $20/quart. Not as great of a deal as "$45" but it sure made my day.
I sanded and osphoed a few rusty spots this evening, and plan on getting up early to sand, mask, and apply the first coat. We are suposed to have a chance of rain in the afternoon.
If I were to apply a coat tomorrow morning, would precipitation hurt it about 4-5 hours later???
Also, is it a big deal to coat the access panel seperate? I understand that you may need to get in behind your tailgate handle, but I have a 97 and my screws are rusted, and I think it would look better if they were coated over.
Hey everyone - I'm going to put the hardware back on after work tonight. If its not raining I'll take some pictures outside. If the weather is as bad as they say it will be (we need the rain!) then I'll just take some pics in the garage.
As for BJN708's questions
- after 4 hours a light rain probably wouldn't hurt it. I was standing on mine after about 5 hours to do the second coat. If it was a really bad storm I'd be a little worried though. It'd really suck to do all that work and get a hail storm or tree branch screw up your work.
- its really up to you if you want to coat your access panel on the truck. You could just run a razor around the edges if you need to take it off at a later time.
As for rusted screws - I really want to strip all my hardware and have it Black Oxide coated. I think that would look really nice and hold up better to scratches. Still haven't done the looking to see how much it would cost though...
I put all the hardware back on last night. One more tip/trick I thought of - I put 4 pieces of double-sided tape down before reinstalling the tailgate cap. On a couple occasions I've had the plastic side out from under the metal access cover and I'm hoping this will prevent it from ever happening again. Here is a pic:
As requested, I backed it out of the garage and took some pictures in the sun. Luckily the weather cooperated and the sky cleared up right as I was finishing the work.
Not that I've noticed. I've had a few things in and out of the truck with no damage... but I haven't had the chance to be too rough on it so far.
I'm leaving Wednesday to go camping in Loudonville, OH. I'll have the dog crate, coolers, chairs, tent, etc in and out of the truck so that'll be the first good test of it. If nothing else, it should help when we all pile in the truck to head up river...
although I just heard that my cousin bought a superduty so if he's there we'll have a couple trucks to run upriver... which is good cause for some of the runs we have to take tubes along!
I was planning on doing my floorboard tomorrow. There are some holes that I would like to just roll over and seal up. Do you think I would run into any problems by doing that?
It was on sale at Menards for $65 and then Herculiner was doing a $20 rebate at the time.
What kind of holes??? If they are like some pinholes or only about 2-3 mm in size, it might work. Anything bigger I would think should be patched ahead of time.
Mine is still holding up nicely. No evidence of scratches so far. I also don't really notice any fading yet - I keep it in a garage at night, but it sits outside all day in the sun at work.
I think that link will work... if not, just go to www.menards.com
and click on the ad.
BTW - mine is still holding up nice. Its out in the sun all day while I'm at work and I haven't noticed any fading or anything. No scratches yet either.
This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. FordŽ is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company
Herculiner Tips
**** Continued from original post ****
03 F-150 5.4 FX4 with HD supercharger swap at 10PSI, 6" fabtech with PA 3" body lift, 38"15.5" MT Baja claws, on 16" 10" extreem aloys, fabtech steering stabilizer, procomp traction bars, pro comp add a leaf, cranked torsion bars,4.88 gears, detroit locker in rear, ARB locker up front, troyer E-fans, X-cal 2 tuned by Sal, FTVB shift kit, on board air system, TONS OF CUSTOM MODS, AND ONE UNSTOPPABLE BEAST
Herculiner is finished!
Linear Mode
