Originally Posted by msleeper

The idle started out smooth as glass after changing the plugs to Champions. After the third day I noticed slight stumble at idle with the engine not quite up to operating temp yet. Over the course of the week the stumble got slightly worse as each day passed. During this time I ordered a new set of Motorcraft SP515 plugs from Rockauto just to be on the safe side.

Fast forward to this past weekend, I'm out of state on a weekend trip and I start my truck up Sunday morning after sitting for a couple of days, idling really bad. Check engine light comes on, fortunately not flashing, just on. I scanned it with the scanner I keep in my console and got two DTCs, P0316 and PO308, intermittent misfire on startup and misfire cylinder #8, respectively. I pulled the COP out and everything looked fine, as much good as that did. I doubt it wasn't seated right. So we got home just fine with the engine light on, no stumbling or misfiring as far as I could tell at highway speeds.

This morning I started out for work and WOW. Real loss of power and idle was ugly. I thought I could let it go for a couple of days, but instead I turned around, went home, and took a half day to put those SP515s in ASAP before I burned a catalytic converter up with raw gasoline. It only took me about and hour and 15 minutes to pull all the Champions and replace them. I opted to do it the hard way and didn't take the computer or the evap control thing out to make hand room, just the air intake and pcv hose. #3 and #4 were tricky with manipulating everything, the rest were easy.

I'm back to Motorcraft plugs, screw Champion. I liked the idea of the one piece design but that was due to original two piece pre-removal paranoia. I've read here that the SP515s have a stronger weld, but I'll do the next plug change at 160,000 miles after a few bottles of techron, and before the gaps double in size.

Just thought I'd share my Champion experience here with everyone. Not sure what went wrong with the #8 plug. I bought them a few years ago so who knows where the receipt is. Truck is running fine again so I'm happy!

Originally Posted by msleeper

I recall you sharing these earlier in the thread and they went a long way to helping restore my confidence in the Motorcraft plugs, at least with the 515s. I had read a lot of mixed reviews about the Champions but decided to give them a try anyway, especially over the 507s. I mean, they're just spark plugs right? They should all work the same, right? <G>

Day two on the 515s and all is well! Thanks!

Originally Posted by bigcoop53

Finally got the nerve to do mine yesterday. I followed this write up pretty close. The only thing I did different is I did not buy the extractor kit. I also found that my shop vac nossle fit snuggly into the hole in the head where the spark plug resides. So what I did is insert it into each spark plug hole and had it hooked up to blow air and turned it on. I found that putting the cavity under pressure helped to force the Deep Creep (that stuff is marvelous) down into the spark plug quicker. I held the nossle in place for about 4 minutes each. I would turn off vac before removal so no penetrant would be blown out. I got all 8 out with no problems. I also used a baby bottle brush with a large brush on one end and a small one on the other. It worked great for cleaning the threads out in the head and the hole area. Also make sure that when you remove plugs to put small rag pieces into each hole to insure no debree gets in there when your blowing out other spark plug holes. This job can be a piece of cake. Now my King Ranch runs like new. Also always use Motorcraft plugs for long life like mine it had 106,875 miles on original plugs!!!!

Originally Posted by Bluejay

THIS WAS POSTED BY LWoodard in a thread. I copied it here for the benefit of all.

Jim (Bluejay)


I just changed the spark plugs on my '04 F150 with 5.4L last week. I only had 53,000 miles on it. The whole process went a lot easier than what I had read. This was the first time I have attempted to change plugs on a 5.4L. I copied a document that I wrote up to help others. Make sure and have the “Lisle 65600” kit (Broken Spark Plug Remover for Ford 3 Valve) ready, you will need it. I only had two plugs come apart, but as Murphy's law goes, the harder the plugs are to get to, the greater the chance they will come apart. My back plug on each bank came apart. Follow the instructions and I think it will go easier then you expect, it did for me. Make sure and coat the new plugs with “High Temperature Nickel Anti-Seize” (2552 degrees).
I bought mine through the Ford dealer, $20.00 for 8 ounce container. I bought Motorcraft SP507 spark plugs through Advance Auto Parts for $7.99 each, the dealer wanted $20.03 each!



FORD 5.4L 3-VALVE SPARK PLUG REMOVAL
NOTE: Plugs must soak for 2-3 days to loosen the carbon around the plug tip.
Soaking may not keep the plug from coming apart, but it will make removing the tip a lot easier if the carbon is softened up first.

1. On passenger side: Pull bales down and remove (3) large wire connectors from the computer
box (7 x 8” box mounted on firewall).

2. Unbolt computer box, (4) bolts with 10MM socket and set aside.

3. Remove the computer box mounting bracket from fire wall, (3) bolts with 10MM socket.

4. Blow out spark plug wells with compressed air. Use a piece of ¼” rubber fuel line 30” long as a
funnel to blow thru.

5. Press release tab in to remove the wire connector from the COP (coil on plug).

6. Remove (1) screw with 7MM socket that holds each COP (coil on plug) in place.

7. Twist the COP and spark plug boot to free from spark plug well and remove.
Lay out in order so they can be reinstalled on the same cylinder.

8. Spray carburetor cleaner in the spark plug well to cover the hex on the spark plug.
Spray cleaner thru a piece of ¼” rubber fuel line 30” long using it as a funnel.

9. Using torque wrench loosen the spark plug 1/8-1/4 of a turn.
(should break loose around 33 foot pounds of torque.

10. Retorque plug to 25 foot pounds and loosen again 1/8-1/4 turn (to work cleaner in).

11. Repeat tightening and loosening plug every couple hours for the next 2-3 days. Make sure
spark plug well maintains carburetor cleaner above the plug hex. Use an inspection mirror
and light to verify.

12. After 2-3 days of soaking place a rag over the spark plug well and blow out excess carburetor
Cleaner so it won’t go into the cylinder (use ¼” fuel line as funnel to blow thru).

13. Remove plugs (9/16 socket) using various extensions and universal joint.
(use long fingers to lift spark plug out of well)


14. Coat new plugs with “High Temperature Nickel Anti-Seize” (2552 degrees). Coat the 3/8”
diameter tipl keeping the anti-seize away from the electrode.

15. Use long fingers to lower the plug into the well and torque to 25 foot pounds.

16. Apply “Dielectric Compound” to the spark plug boot and install on the plug.

17. Apply anti-seize to the COP’s screws and install.

18. Apply “Dielectric Compound” to the COP connector and snap in place.

19. Mount the computer box bracket to the firewall with (3) screws using 10MM socket.

20. Mount the computer box in the bracket with (4) screws using 10MM socket.

21. Install (3) wire connectors locking in place with the bails.

22. The computer will take about five minutes to readjust. During that time the engine may only
be running on 6 or 7 cylinders. You will have to baby it at idle until it smooth out.




IF THE PLUG SEPERATES WHILE TRYING TO REMOVE:

1. Buy “Lisle 65600” kit (Broken Spark Plug Remover for Ford 3 Valve). $59.00 on e-bay.

2. Follow instructions making sure to break the porcelain off flush inside spark plug tip first.

3. Use “Assembly Lube” on all threads and tap when using remover.

Originally Posted by gibby84

Here's a dumb question.
Do you gap the Motorcraft SP-515 spark plugs if so what number or are they un-gapable?