I did mine and all 8 plugs came out great. Put in the new E3's and the truck runs like ****. Not sure where i went wrong. I wish I would have seen the post about removing the computer box on the pass side. That was always in the way

 

about 100 miles with e3 and runs like a top...

can't say if it has more power or higher MPG
yet but hopefully that is the last time I need to change my plugs or COP'S...

Hey mustangguy...not sure what you mean by **** ...
but mine fired right up and hasn't missed a beat...
did you use the e3.70...torque to 25ft/lb???
maybe got antiseize on one of the tips???
bad COP???...
I heard not only is it a good idea to make sure you put the COP's back on the same cylinder it came from and replace the boots too...
something called "flashover" can happen when the boot from the cop to the spark plug does not fit tight...and going from one brand plug to another can cause a loose fitting boot...
basically it causes the spark to jump outside the plug...not inside...

many people have posted on many sites about upgraded cop's not worth the money but IMO... I have upgraded my ignition system on all 3 of my cars and they all seem to breathe a little life into the engine...
plat. plugs...better wires...ignition coil or cop's...all help a little
not to mention to replace the oem parts cost just as much if not more in some cases then aftermarket/upgraded parts...
just to replace the boots on a V8 is like $75...$250 for new high voltage cop's
w/new boots...no brainer
and no matter what people say that the factory stuff is good enough...
that stuff doesn't last forever
these are people who wait until 100k to change plugs and coolant...
poorly mainatin their rides then wonder why they are breaking down...not me

plus they are talking about $5/gal gas coming soon and I will do anything I can for every MPG I can get...

and already sold the tools I used to change the old crappy plugs out...

Thanks

 

Everything is working great now. I removed the computer and was able to get another turn or two on that #4 plug. My knuckles and extensions where binding making the plug feel like it was tight and it wasnt. Runs like a champ now.


BTW I have a brand new LISLE 65600 broken spark plug removal tool if anybody needs one!

 

I guess a loose plug might cause it to run rough...

I used a bunch of extensions/sockets/adaptors/wrenches but I didn't use any
univerl joints...

FYI...you might want to post your tools for sale in classifieds section

mine sold in 1 day

 

Haha... already did and have a sale pending.

 

The 3V factory coils seldom fail, but if they do, buy a set on Ebay from Global or Uneek. A full set is about $125. Forget about Accel.

 

.

I don't think you have to buy the best of everything...but I do believe you get what you pay for...

I just can't trust buying a set of 8 coils for $115 when quality brand named coils
including msd, accell, gms and motorcraft sell for $30-$50 each...

same reason I didn't put 99 cent plugs in...$1/quart oil...and a set of $100 cheap ebay rotors and pads...

the safety of my family and the sense of security I get from good quality parts
is well worth the extra money I spend...also the extra money I spend on parts I save by doing all the work myself...

not to mention I didn't buy a truck that stickered for over $40k to put the cheapest replacement parts I could find on it...

just my 2 cents

 

There have been a great number buy the Global and Uneek coils and are very pleased with them. What you may not be aware of is that Accel and Granatelli have had a lot of bad coils sold. I would not waste my money on an expensive coil. You're paying for the name and advertising. It is suspected by some that the ebay coils come out of the same factory as the OEM coils. They look identical. It's your money, but if it were me, I would buy a set of 10 off ebay. If one is bad, you have a replacement and still save a bundle.

 

Is this only the 5.4L engines that have all these problems? I've got a 4.6L, Eng. VIN "W". I just did spark plugs #2 & #6, and COP #2 to remove all diagnostic codes and solve bad "missing". Removed plug gaps were approx. .072", so will be regapping / replacing rest soon.

 

Yes, 5.4,3v for 2004-Early 2008.

 

Looks like I have made a mistake...

after less than 1 month and under 500 miles my truck started shuttering under light acceleration around 40 mph...misfire...

the GMS cop's are going back to jegs asap...
GMS offered to send me new ones after I sent them my set and they tested them...
WTF!!!...so I could spend my weekends changing cop's...NOT!!!

I will stick with the stockers until I decide if I want to go with MSD cop's...

again...I was wrong...and will tell everyone that will listen not to buy GMS cop's...

Thanks

 

Great thread guys.. I'm about to do a tune up on my truck which has approx 116K on it; I personally have never changed the plugs but I'm not the original owner that said while I agree with most of the points on the thread I just can't see loosening the plugs a little bit at a time over several days. I mean who has that much time; I went ahead and purchased the removal tool in hopes that I can set aside a few hours and knock it out. Crossing my fingers and hoping I don't have any broken plugs.. Again thanks for all the info provided..

 

If you haven't, be sure and read this one:
https://www.f150online.com/forums/20...y-writeup.html

 

not sure if the gms cop's are bad...
installed old fomoco cop's and still had a miss...
added fuel cleaner...heet...moved coils around and nothing...

finally removed 3 week old e3 3.70 plugs and installed champion 7989 plugs

she runs like a top and no more missing...

hope I can get money back for ****ty plugs...

maybe try to put the gms cop's back in when it is above freezing again!!!

 

Champion makes a new spark plug that is a 1 piece billet design that take the place of the ford two piece design. no need to worry, about carbon seizing the electrode and the plug breaking, anymore. Makes me wish i knew about these before i changed my plugs with the same crappy ford design.