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  #121  
Old 01-18-2012, 04:31 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2006
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Vehicle: 2005 FORD F150 FX4
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Joe Moser
Fixed my DS and PS window last night. Good pictures and steps to follow made it very easy. Thanks
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  #122  
Old 02-19-2012, 08:02 PM
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Rick McGee
Fixed my passenger side switch yesterday !! Thanks for a great write up !
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  #123  
Old 03-08-2012, 09:12 AM
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Thanks bud...fixed my driver side in less than 30 minutes. Good pics
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  #124  
Old 03-08-2012, 12:23 PM
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Thanks for the write up. I used my old brake adjustment tool to lift the switch panel off.
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  #125  
Old 03-16-2012, 04:09 PM
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Window Switch

Thank you for the pictures & directions! I fixed my driver side window just by cleaning the contacts. I did however bust the small clip holding the window lock switch cap, I thought it would pop off like the window ones. I was able to salvage it with some black tape and it works fine. So just be careful with that one.
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  #126  
Old 03-25-2012, 08:50 PM
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Ryan Hynko Ryan Hynko MrSlashtastic88
My truck has had this problem since I purchased it 3 years ago with the driver window switch having to be wiggled back and forth to bring the window up. 10 minutes and it was working like a brand new window. I also found that the pin in the switch that controlled my automatic down on the driver window was broken. I was able to switch it with the "down pin" and now it works again. I can't control the amount the window goes down anymore it will only go completely down on its own, but I'm ok with that for now only takes 10 minutes to change it if I ever get tired of it.
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  #127  
Old 05-12-2012, 03:07 PM
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Add another to the "Did the window switch fix" list.

Thanks for taking the time to document this, its a huge help! -Ed
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  #128  
Old 05-20-2012, 10:17 PM
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Just saved me some monies!!!!
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  #129  
Old 06-02-2012, 11:27 PM
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houtexfan
Perfect walk through... Works like a charm!
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  #130  
Old 06-21-2012, 03:58 AM
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Both windows are going out. I'm doing this tomorrow!!!! Thanks!!!
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  #131  
Old 07-07-2012, 06:33 PM
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I owe you a beer!

I'm not mechanically talented, but from reading your posting TO fixing the window TO bragging that I fixed it TO now has only been an hour. Thanks and Good Karma to you.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mblouir View Post
Note: I did this for my 2007 Ford F-150, but it should be nearly identical in terms of process for other vehicles.



Background:
A few months ago my passenger side window switch became defective. It was capable of rolling down the window, but was not able to roll it back up. I had to do it from the driver's side. I could still completely control the window from the driver's side, though, so I knew it was an issue with the switch. It's been a busy semester, so I had decided to put off looking into it until summer.

Well, today I was taking the dog to the park so I had my windows down, enjoying the day. When I got to the park, my driver's side window would not roll up. Same issue as the passenger's side; it would roll down but not back up. It took some playing with to get it to roll back up. In other words, I sat there for five minutes flipping the switch until it went back up. It is supposed to rain tomorrow, so I decided to leave it go until I had more time to look at it.

Sooooo that didn't work out so well. Being the intuitive mind that I am, I decided to check them out. The driver's side costs ~$70 to replace from Amazon, and the passenger's side costs $40, also from Amazon. I don't have $110 laying around to spend on window switches, so I wanted to try it myself. I did in fact figure out what was wrong, and fixed it. The cause of the issue was bad contact points. This is usually the case in terms of window switches becoming defective. All you need to fix this is maybe one or two small screwdrivers, and something to wipe off the contact points with (I used Cu Tips). This is a short tutorial of how to repair defective window switches with this issue.




First Step: Remove Window Switch
This step will vary based on your vehicle. You should be able to pry up a section of door panel to gain access. Just unhook any connectors necessary and use a small screwdriver to pry apart any snap-fits. You only want to be dealing with the switch board itself.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.





2nd Step: Gaining Access to Switch Internals
The caps over each switch (your window buttons with up and down arrows) will pry off easily. After those are off, remove the actual switches (white pieces for my truck). These were also snap-fits, so use one of the small screwdrivers to pry them out. Now remove the small metal tabs underneath. These were simply laying in position, so flipping the whole configuration over will allow them to fall out.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.








3rd Step: Diagnose your Situation
You may or may not have bad contacts. You will know immediately. If not it is something else, so do a little research and see what you need to do. If you are at this point you obviously wanted to try a DIY fix before paying over a hundred bucks for new switches. It's worth trying to fix while it's apart. If it doesn't work, you're out nothing and you have to buy new switches anyway. Worth a shot, right? Here is a look at a good vs bad contact.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.







Last Step: Fix it!
It's quite obvious the problem here was bad contacts. All I did was scrape off the crud and afterward wiped the contacts off. Use whatever tool can get the job done. If at all possible make the contact points as smooth as possible for a clean connection.
Click the image to open in full size.








Just do everything in reverse to put it all back together and go test it. For me, it worked for both the driver and passenger sides! Good luck. This is a fairly straightforward fix if you're comfortable doing this. I had to take new pictures since I lost the old ones, and this whole process took me less than 10 minutes.


-Matt
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  #132  
Old 07-28-2012, 09:30 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Erie, Colorado
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mblouir View Post
Note: I did this for my 2007 Ford F-150, but it should be nearly identical in terms of process for other vehicles.



Background:
A few months ago my passenger side window switch became defective. It was capable of rolling down the window, but was not able to roll it back up. I had to do it from the driver's side. I could still completely control the window from the driver's side, though, so I knew it was an issue with the switch. It's been a busy semester, so I had decided to put off looking into it until summer.

Well, today I was taking the dog to the park so I had my windows down, enjoying the day. When I got to the park, my driver's side window would not roll up. Same issue as the passenger's side; it would roll down but not back up. It took some playing with to get it to roll back up. In other words, I sat there for five minutes flipping the switch until it went back up. It is supposed to rain tomorrow, so I decided to leave it go until I had more time to look at it.

Sooooo that didn't work out so well. Being the intuitive mind that I am, I decided to check them out. The driver's side costs ~$70 to replace from Amazon, and the passenger's side costs $40, also from Amazon. I don't have $110 laying around to spend on window switches, so I wanted to try it myself. I did in fact figure out what was wrong, and fixed it. The cause of the issue was bad contact points. This is usually the case in terms of window switches becoming defective. All you need to fix this is maybe one or two small screwdrivers, and something to wipe off the contact points with (I used Cu Tips). This is a short tutorial of how to repair defective window switches with this issue.




First Step: Remove Window Switch
This step will vary based on your vehicle. You should be able to pry up a section of door panel to gain access. Just unhook any connectors necessary and use a small screwdriver to pry apart any snap-fits. You only want to be dealing with the switch board itself.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.





2nd Step: Gaining Access to Switch Internals
The caps over each switch (your window buttons with up and down arrows) will pry off easily. After those are off, remove the actual switches (white pieces for my truck). These were also snap-fits, so use one of the small screwdrivers to pry them out. Now remove the small metal tabs underneath. These were simply laying in position, so flipping the whole configuration over will allow them to fall out.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.








3rd Step: Diagnose your Situation
You may or may not have bad contacts. You will know immediately. If not it is something else, so do a little research and see what you need to do. If you are at this point you obviously wanted to try a DIY fix before paying over a hundred bucks for new switches. It's worth trying to fix while it's apart. If it doesn't work, you're out nothing and you have to buy new switches anyway. Worth a shot, right? Here is a look at a good vs bad contact.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.







Last Step: Fix it!
It's quite obvious the problem here was bad contacts. All I did was scrape off the crud and afterward wiped the contacts off. Use whatever tool can get the job done. If at all possible make the contact points as smooth as possible for a clean connection.
Click the image to open in full size.








Just do everything in reverse to put it all back together and go test it. For me, it worked for both the driver and passenger sides! Good luck. This is a fairly straightforward fix if you're comfortable doing this. I had to take new pictures since I lost the old ones, and this whole process took me less than 10 minutes.


-Matt
Great write up, had this problem, fixed in less than ten minutes. The photos were great. FYI, you can use the eraser on the end of a pencil to clean up the contacts. Just put the end on the contact, swirl it around and it'll clean it quick. If it's really bad, I took some 800 grit wet/dry emery paper and cut a couple of strips about 1/4" wide, 5 inches long and drew them over the contacts. BTW, do not use WD40 to clean the contacts. It can leave a residue on them that will cause arcing. You're better off not putting anything on the contacts overall. Contact cleaner is okay, but some has an oil in it...
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  #133  
Old 08-22-2012, 12:15 PM
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Thank you

Okay, so I am lazy. I just bought the new switch and installed. Took about 5 minutes with you great instructions. Save me $200. Thanks!
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  #134  
Old 09-09-2012, 02:22 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2005
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Vehicle: 2007 Ford F-150
Posts: 26
Just fixed mine! Thanks!!
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  #135  
Old 10-01-2012, 08:40 AM
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2007 Ford F-150
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 1
Thumbs up

Thank you so much!!! Nothing really captures the essence of a Monday morning then your driver's side window being fully open when it's 45 degrees out and no way to put it back up!

My diagnosis found that in addition to excess corrosion on the contacts (had noticed it was arcing a lot when I had taken the casing off and tried to open/close the window), I found that the springs had worn at an angle. So just to play it safe I swapped the springs and up pin with one of the rear window's one and it works like brand new, the old ones now in the back even seem to work. Saved me a lot of time, money, and headache!!
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Old 10-01-2012, 08:40 AM


 
 
 
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