We have an automatic gate across the front of our property as well as our automatic garage door and I got tired of having the remotes clipped to my sunvisor. I got on ebay and picked up a used homelink module for $26 that came out of a chrysler sebring sunvisor and was the same color as my interior.



I know of one or two people that have added them to their sunvisors but I did not want to attempt to take the visor apart. I do not have the overhead rail system but I do have the overhead console with the map lights and sun glasses holder. That provided the perfect spot to mount the homelink module.

The first thing you do is remove the overhead console by simply pulling down on it with firm pressure so it just snaps right out. There are 2 sets of wires to the map lights and you have to unplug the wire harness of both.

After doing a little test fitting I snapped the button cover off the homelink module and placed it on the backside of the overhead console so I could mark where I wanted to cut.





I drilled out holes first using the marks I made on the backside that matched up with the button area and where the little light is on the homelink cover.



Next I used my rotozip and cut out the area basically using the holes like a dot to dot.



I then fastened the module to the back of the console using black duct tape. The module barely weighs an once and I just needed something to hold it in place until the button cover was snapped on the other side. Once the cover snapped on it was very secure.



Finally it was time to put the overhead console back in place. I tapped into the map light wire harness for power and ground for the module. I then followed the homelink instructions for programming and it worked like a charm!



Other than being a little nerve racking drilling in and cuttin out the console this was a fairly simple mod and took me less than an hour to do.

One other thing is that I did have to shave about 1/16th of an inch off the inside back of the homelink module where the button cover snaps in. The console plastic is slighty thicker than the module was originally designed for. I shaved it off carefully using a small chisel and just pressure from my hand. The module will snap apart so it is easy to get to the inside.

This could be done to any year model that doesn't have Homelink all you need is power and ground and a place to put it.

 

Very nice write up! I will set it up in the Articles and How To section. Thank you for a nice contribution to the site.

 

Very nice write up! I didn't even know that could be done without too much trouble. I figured it'd be a real p.i.a. One more thing to add to my wishlist of mods of my brand spanking new used 06 FX4!

Nice job!

 

Very nice job, and a clean, factory-look installation. Kudos!

I keep thinking I want to add this on mine, but my truck sits outside. I'd want to wire the H/L module to a switched hot lead, so it could not open the garage doors unless the truck ignition was on.

I wonder if the H/L programming be lost if not constantly powered?

Andy

 

I tested the unit before I installed it by just hooking it directly to my battery and programming the garage door. After the install it still held the code and I only had to program my gate so I assume losing power is not an issue. Also I have had other cars with homelink and never had to reprogram after replacing the battery.

 

Awesome job thanks for posting this.

 

Pretty cool! might see if I can pick one up for myself!

 

Wow sweet I want to install that on my 06.

 

I just looked for one on ebay. Was yours a non-rolling code type? They say that on all the listings of that style.

 

Mine is a rolling code, you wil need a rolling code for newer garage door openers. The non rolling is for units with dip switches only. If you are not sure get a rolling code one because it will work for either system. Keep watching ebay, they will turn up but go faster since most need that kind.

 

What exactly did you shave down?

 

The overhead console was slightly thicker than the opener was designed for. The button cover goes through a couple of holes on the module itself and snaps into place.

I shaved down the inside of the module where it snaps into place thus allowing the cover not to have to push as far in to snap. The material is slightly thicker on the inside around the holes. I'm talking about the backside of the holes on the interior of the module. If you get one you will see what I am saying and this will make more sense.

I felt that was the easiest solution. You could shave/sand down the entire outside of the module but that would be a lot more work.

 

Thanks for the reply. I did buy one and was having the same problem. I did what you just suggested and it still did not work. I ended up shaving down the back side of the button cover with my dremmel. That still did not work. So I ended up gluing the button cover to the console and securing the module on the inside with some of that grey double sided foam auto tape used on exterior badges. Ended up being kind of a pain with all the trial and error but it works great. Thanks for suggesting this mod. I was also tired of the opener on my visor.

 

That's exactly how I did mine. Funny, mine came out of a chrysler too....the color matches almost perfectly. If you didn't know, you'd swear it came from the factory that way. Mine's been working flawlessly for over four years now. Great simple, but highly functional mod.

EDIT....I also noticed after doing this mod that the range of the opener seemed better than with the old handheld door remote. Not sure if this was due to the batteries constantly draining in the handheld or the homelink unit sending a stronger signal.

 

The tolerance was pretty tight so maybe if the location or the module itself was not exactly the same it would make a difference?

Glad yo were able to work it out!