Ok, update! I put the new vacuum box on and hooked everything back up and took it for a 50+ mile drive, and success! Its working the way its supposed to. I did notice a very minute leak down on my guage while cruising on the highway, i thought this was going to be normal, but then i thought about the check valves again. The leak down never dropped below about 17 on the guage so it wasnt enough to do anything. After i got home i tested my vacuum pump just to make sure (cause my last one took a dump while testing and gave me the same results) and sure enough the connection from the vacuum pump line to my test line i installed inline with the lines going to the actuators was leaking. I put some sealant on the connector (some sort of sealant that came with the pump) and bench tested the pump and test line again and it held fine. So there is a lesson to you guys, test your testing equipment also. Just for safe measure i retested the actuators and lines to make sure they were all ok too and they were, so everything is now working properly from what i can see. Im so excited the truck felt completely different now that everything up front wasnt turning as well. Much Better!

 

Good deal!

 

My girlfriends dad and I did this today. You're thread really helped us out a lot and now my 4x4 works like a charm.

 

Thanks to whoever started this thread,It has been a great help.

I wanted to add some info on tools needed to complete this task.
I didn't read the complete thread, so I am not sure if this tool list is already posted.

• torque wrench 1\2 drive
• 21mm deep socket 1\2 drive
• universal swivel 1\2 drive
• ratchet 1\2 drive
• 21mm open end wrench
• medium ballpen hammer
• 13mm socket 3\8 drive
• ratchet 3\8 drive
• 10mm socket 3\8 drive
• 3" extension 3\8 drive
• 3\8 box end wrench
• 10mm box end wrench
• floor jack
• two jack stands

I just finished this install ten minutes ago,these are all the tools I used.
again thanks for the info on diagnosing and RE & RE ,,,Peace!
large flat head screw driver for hub cap removal

 

just put a new iwe in on the drivers side , thanks for all the help and info guys, save me big bucks ,thanks again

 

TN-F150, I really appreciate your 'taking one for the team' by posting the fix for the IWE Actuators and including the material, tool, and reference lists!
I started my escapade by first replacing the Vacuum solenoid(with rain guard - P/N 6L3Z-9E441-A, just under $29 w/tax), and when that didn't cure what ails Thirsty(13mpg - probably due to running in 4WD), I jacked him up for a thorough check.
I have good vacuum. During a disconnect of the D/S Line, I discovered a need to rotate the hub slightly to aquire a lock. I also found that the P/S will engage 4WD when I shut the truck off(release of vacuum), but the D/S won't. Upon start-up, the same malady is present; P/S disengages to 2WD and D/S not releasing. Could this be caused by a perforated diaphragm? Is the actuator user-servicable for grease or cleaning? My guess, after reading here, is the gear is bevelled and the mesh is a half of a tooth off (hence the slight rotation), necessitating a replacement anyway. My local dealer wants MSRP of $109.98 each and Tasca is way cheaper, $161.91 with shipping for two!
Did you require a new alignment after knocking the tie-rod, etc. off?
On this site, xjcamaro89 has an explanation of the IWE Vacuum and Solenoid system, as is copied on page 4 of this thread. I read this thread first yesterday and it got me thinking and looking. This site is awesome for not getting the run around at the dealer!

 

I am having trouble getting the upper ball joint separated. Do you have any tricks that can help??

 

Thanks for all the input ya'll posted. I just had problems with my 4wd today after getting stuck in 2wd. I put it in 4wh and nothing then 4wl and nothing. I have not had any sign of anything being wrong. After getting the truck out and getting it back home, I starting tearing into it before finding this thread and learning about the problem. But what i found was that my passenger side IWE had some water and fine sand in it eatting up the spring that has the gear ingauge. After getting the IWE off the truck and opening it up the spring fell out in about 50 pieces. Now it is going to be finding the parts to fix it. Being Sat evening was not able to go to Ford for the parts and the local part stores didn't have a clue what the part was. So it is lookin like i'm going to be putting all back together so i can get back to my Home and get the parts from Ford and replace them.

 

TN-F150 and jreeder,
On posts 22 & 23, there is a need for an extra set of hands while threading the upper ball-joint nut while holding the control arm down. Could the extra set of hands be manifested as a tie-down strap? I have finally ordered the actuators (solenoid replaced in late April '09 to no avail) and anticipate performing this repair later this week - June 8th. My wife might not be around, so I may need "alternative resources".
Also, was an alignment necessary after this procedure?
I have had two alignments on the truck due to one tie-rod end joint and one lower ball joint breakage and now need another one. At this time, I do not suspect, nor can identify a broken part, yet the truck indicates the need for another alignment. (The steering wheel always cants toward the 10:30-11:00 position in each event.) Is my experience common, atypical, or isolated?
The tie-rod end joint breakage had 32" BFG tires installed and was done crossing a ditch on angle. The lower ball joint (on the opposite, driver's side) was done again crossing another ditch at angle, perhaps thirty degrees and 14" deep with sloping sides. Since getting an alignment in June of last year after the lbj repair, I have been running factory wheels with Hankook 235/70R17 rubber and not crossing ditches. BTW, I have a two inch, top-of-the-spring, plastic puck, Tuff Country leveling lift kit installed in front. Me thinks this has affected the suspension component geometry, thereby causing my maladies.
Thanks.

 

I just wanted to put in that you really don't even need to remove the upper ball joint. I was able when messing with mine this past weekend to just remove the hub and then unbolt the axle's bolts. After that i got the Axle joint down past the cunk. it is a little tricky but if you work with it just a little bit it is really easy. then to remove the IWEs i had unbolted it and turn the wheel ( with me doing the passenger side) to the left and i was able to push the axle out the back side and slide the IWE off. Now to protect the threads on the spindle i replaced the nut that was on the end of it! It is little sung fix comin out but goes right back in.. And then when i was putting it back together it might a took me 10 mins or even less to get it all back together. So that is a thought if you are worried about the upper joint being hard to get back together!!

 

Have a question about testing the actuators? I did the vacuum tests which show they are good holding vacuum no problem. However when I had the truck hoisted up and spinning the wheels the driver side I believe would rotate the front shaft even when started and vacuum applied by engine. Where the other side would not rotate anything meaning it is disengauging properly. Is this correct thinking... should both sides spin without turning the front shaft etc... when vacuum applied?? So it seems that vacuum is ok but my drivers side actuator is failing and needs replacement?? It is very minor problem at this point with sound/small vibration akin to a wheel bearing being bad occurring every now and then. 4x4 works fine when turned on.

Oh... anyone think I should replace the solenoid??

 

Silly question but when checking the iwe check valves when you put your pump on the vac side of the valve do you have to hold your finger over the other port for it to hold vacuum? Because I had to.

 

That means your check valve could be faulty or your hooking up vac line on wrong end Ranger! Here is an easy test for check valves, just blow into them.... you should only be able to blow air one way... not both ways. If both ways replace.

 

How do i unbolt the 6 halfshaft flange-to-axle shaft
seal. flange bolts? The axle keeps spinning? I tried torqueing down the IWE botls and broke on off inside

 

Good question because the repair proceedure states early in it to have the vehicle in neutral. Are you using a ratchet or a impact? Might have better luck to soak the bolts in PB Blaster and use an Impact. When I performed my IWE replacement I left it in park. When I did brakes in my old truck with a manual I left it in 1st so the axle wouldn't rotate. I doubt the same would work for an automatic if you put it in D.

Lastly, since the IWE bolts up to the knuckle are you just removing the shaft to get a better shot at the back of the knuckle?