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Interested in swapping your 4.6 to a 5.4? This thread lists several problems you may run in to. The most common are:
Read the full discussion below to find out how to deal with the common issues.
Read the full discussion below to find out how to deal with the common issues.
4.6 to 5.4 Swap Notes
#198
Hello JMC,
I am swapping shortblocks and re-using my 4.6 PI heads..
I would like to add to your very thorough list that If you are doing a swap like I am, you will also need the timing chain, timing cover, and chain guides from a 5.4 as well. Tensioners are the same. PI and non-PI chains from 97-03 5.4 2v SOHC motors have 122 links. Crank and cam sprockets have the same number of teeth on these motors as well (integrated or non-integrated).
I have had several modular engine builders tell me that the stock 5.4 crank will handle 1000+ hp, but the rods are the weak point for anything over 400.
I dont want to sound redundant, but you can also use 4.6 PI, or non PI heads in the "L" swap as long as they are windors. (Don't know why you would want non-PI's though)
Like you mentioned about the tranny/torque converter issue, you will need the converter from a 5.4 with the 4r70W tranny. Oreilly has a Dacco P/N F60LS for around $140 US if you are going stock to mild. LS= low stall. From what I hear, you should stay under 400 hp at the crank for the stock 4r70W.
I am swapping shortblocks and re-using my 4.6 PI heads..
I would like to add to your very thorough list that If you are doing a swap like I am, you will also need the timing chain, timing cover, and chain guides from a 5.4 as well. Tensioners are the same. PI and non-PI chains from 97-03 5.4 2v SOHC motors have 122 links. Crank and cam sprockets have the same number of teeth on these motors as well (integrated or non-integrated).
I have had several modular engine builders tell me that the stock 5.4 crank will handle 1000+ hp, but the rods are the weak point for anything over 400.
I dont want to sound redundant, but you can also use 4.6 PI, or non PI heads in the "L" swap as long as they are windors. (Don't know why you would want non-PI's though)
Like you mentioned about the tranny/torque converter issue, you will need the converter from a 5.4 with the 4r70W tranny. Oreilly has a Dacco P/N F60LS for around $140 US if you are going stock to mild. LS= low stall. From what I hear, you should stay under 400 hp at the crank for the stock 4r70W.
#199
I have purchased a rebuilt Ford 4R70W overdrive transmission with torque converter for a 2002 F-150 4.6L V8. On the transmission their is a tag with the transmission identification # (AC2P 70000 DA FIMO). Everything looked right comparing it to the old trans, but there is a extra sensor, which is not on the old trans. I called the local dealer & they say the rebuilt transmission I got is for 2010-2011 Year Ford and the transmission I need was # (1L3Z 7V000 FRM)
I need to know can the rebuilt transmission that I have already bought, be retrofitted to work in my 2002 F-150 or I am screwed. If it can, what will that involve?
I need to know can the rebuilt transmission that I have already bought, be retrofitted to work in my 2002 F-150 or I am screwed. If it can, what will that involve?
#200
According to Wiki, it sounds like you have a either a 4R70E, or a 4R75E depending on your dealers info being accurate, it could have come from a 2006-2011 Crown Victoria, Mercury Grand Marquis, Lincoln Town Car, or 2006-2013 4.6 L, 5.4 L Ford E-Series.
I'm directly quoting wiki now:
"In 2003 Ford revised the 4R70W transmission with a stronger ring gear that had 24 lugs, as opposed to 6, for the output shaft sensor (OSS) to read off of, a new torque converter, a revised front pump assembly, and a vehicle speed sensor (VSS) that compliments the OSS to improve shift quality and efficiency. These improvements allowed the 4R75W to handle more power while being more efficient and economical. While not used on all 2003 model year vehicles, the 4R75W/E transmissions eventually replaced the 4R70W/E.
Newer transmissions that are referred to as 4R70E or 4R75E have modifications that compliment Fords switching to throttle by wire. The PCM was given a more powerful microprocessor and Ford added a turbine speed sensor to the transmission. This allows the PCM to know the speed of the input shaft after the torque converter which is used in combination with crankshaft speed to detect the amount of slipping going on in the torque converter. This information provides PCM with the basis for fully electronic shift scheduling which limits "hunting" and fine-tunes shift speed and feel. It lets the PCM know what the torque will be in the next gear so it can choose the shift points based on the vehicle's projected performance in the next gear. Coupled with the electronic throttle strategy, the transmission computes the output torque required to maintain the vehicle speed, and chooses the correct gear and converter state accordingly".
If the tranny layout, bolt pattern, drain pan, and fluid lines match up, then that extra sensor is probably the tubine speed sensor. The tranny would probably work and shift fine if the sensor was left alone, but I would get a second opinion from a tranny shop. Also, check the dimple directions on the converter. Page 5 of http://www.daccoinc.com/pdfs/catalog...%20Catalog.pdf
2v 4.6's require a high stall converter
2009-present F-150's come with 6R80 tranny, btw.
Hope this helps
I'm directly quoting wiki now:
"In 2003 Ford revised the 4R70W transmission with a stronger ring gear that had 24 lugs, as opposed to 6, for the output shaft sensor (OSS) to read off of, a new torque converter, a revised front pump assembly, and a vehicle speed sensor (VSS) that compliments the OSS to improve shift quality and efficiency. These improvements allowed the 4R75W to handle more power while being more efficient and economical. While not used on all 2003 model year vehicles, the 4R75W/E transmissions eventually replaced the 4R70W/E.
Newer transmissions that are referred to as 4R70E or 4R75E have modifications that compliment Fords switching to throttle by wire. The PCM was given a more powerful microprocessor and Ford added a turbine speed sensor to the transmission. This allows the PCM to know the speed of the input shaft after the torque converter which is used in combination with crankshaft speed to detect the amount of slipping going on in the torque converter. This information provides PCM with the basis for fully electronic shift scheduling which limits "hunting" and fine-tunes shift speed and feel. It lets the PCM know what the torque will be in the next gear so it can choose the shift points based on the vehicle's projected performance in the next gear. Coupled with the electronic throttle strategy, the transmission computes the output torque required to maintain the vehicle speed, and chooses the correct gear and converter state accordingly".
If the tranny layout, bolt pattern, drain pan, and fluid lines match up, then that extra sensor is probably the tubine speed sensor. The tranny would probably work and shift fine if the sensor was left alone, but I would get a second opinion from a tranny shop. Also, check the dimple directions on the converter. Page 5 of http://www.daccoinc.com/pdfs/catalog...%20Catalog.pdf
2v 4.6's require a high stall converter
2009-present F-150's come with 6R80 tranny, btw.
Hope this helps
#201
Help figuring out what the heck the previous did during swap
Sorry if the post gets a little long just trying to give as much detail as possible.
Here is what is going on.I bought a expedition about 6 months ago and the dealer said it had a new engine installed a few years back.I thought nothing of it since this is my winter only car for the most part.Well yesterday I was rebuilding the front suspension and noticed it had a ford certified tag attached stating the engine was built by ford.I thought cool at least who ever had it done didn't go the cheap way.Well after staring at it for a moment I relized the head and block are stamped 5.4 liter.This is news to me because my vin number and the plastic intake cover say 4.6.So I decided to check the ecu and sure enough xl1f-cc comes back as a 4.6 ecu.The car runs fine but seems under powered during acceleration from a dead stop ,but my question is.Should I try to find a 5.6 ecu for it and see if it will run with it or leave it alone?If it truly is a 5.4 I would like to be getting the most out of it. Also can someone tell me what ecu would I need for a 5.4 4x4 99 expedition?
Sorry not trying to hi jack a thread or anything just really confused and desperate to sort this out.
Here is what is going on.I bought a expedition about 6 months ago and the dealer said it had a new engine installed a few years back.I thought nothing of it since this is my winter only car for the most part.Well yesterday I was rebuilding the front suspension and noticed it had a ford certified tag attached stating the engine was built by ford.I thought cool at least who ever had it done didn't go the cheap way.Well after staring at it for a moment I relized the head and block are stamped 5.4 liter.This is news to me because my vin number and the plastic intake cover say 4.6.So I decided to check the ecu and sure enough xl1f-cc comes back as a 4.6 ecu.The car runs fine but seems under powered during acceleration from a dead stop ,but my question is.Should I try to find a 5.6 ecu for it and see if it will run with it or leave it alone?If it truly is a 5.4 I would like to be getting the most out of it. Also can someone tell me what ecu would I need for a 5.4 4x4 99 expedition?
Sorry not trying to hi jack a thread or anything just really confused and desperate to sort this out.
Last edited by bowman1268; 03-23-2013 at 09:21 PM.
#203
I have recently completed the 4.6-5.4 swap in a 2000 F-150 4x4. I was lucky since I had a donor truck (1999 F-150 4x4). I was able to swap out the engine harness and most of the other stuff. A few odd parts seemed to have went missing between the time the motors were pulled and the the reinstall. Both engines were already pulled when I took over the job. I rebuilt the 5.4 so there was a bit of time between removal and installation. The truck runs great and seems to shift out well, but I'm having a few little issues. Mainly DTC's. (surprise!) I know I need to get the PCM tuned for the new engine, but the local shop I went to didn't instill a lot of confidence in me. They have the equipment, I'm just not sure they really know how to use it. I also want to swap the instrument cluster from the donor since it has a tach in it and the odometer on the working truck is iffy (sometimes works, sometimes don't), but the guy I talked to wasn't sure the best way to go about it.
Just wanted to say thanks to all who have contributed to this guide and see if any one had any further advice.
Just wanted to say thanks to all who have contributed to this guide and see if any one had any further advice.
#204
Join Date: Dec 1997
Location: Windsor,Ontario,Canada
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What are the DTCs? I never checked the pinouts of the harnesses to see if they were the same so using the 5.4 harness is at your own risk. Swapping the cluster will require reprogramming the PATS to work with the 4.6 PCM and the 5.4 cluster. Three ways to go about it. Bring the truck and cluster to the dealer and he can do it for you. Find a Locksmith that can reprogram the PCM for you or have your tuner turn off the PATS. The last option requires that you never return the tune to stock or the truck will not start.
#205
The last time I read and recorded the codes they were as follows:
P1000 - OBD II Monitor Testing Not Complete Conditions
P1270 - Engine RPM/Vehicle Speed Limiter Fault Conditions (this one could be from my son)
P1401 - DPF EGR Sensor Circuit High Conditions
P0175 (bank2) - Fuel System Too Rich Conditions
P1549 (bank1) - Intake Manifold Comm Ctrl Circuit
I've checked it a few times and these seem to be the most consistent ones. There may have been another one or two at some point though. About the only thing I used off of the 4.6 motor were the three "thingamajigs" that mount on a bracket together and sit on the right side of the intake manifold. One of them seems to be some kind of vacuum diverter/valve that three vacuum lines plug into, one has two rubber hoses coming from the exhaust manifold that connect to it and I believe the other has a wire connection to it. The bracket and "thingamajigs" from the 5.4 were misplaced somewhere but I was able to find the bracket at a U-Pull-It and mount the pieces to it. (Total lucky guess on my part too. It was laying in the floor of a junked out 98 and it looked like it might be the right bracket, so I got it. Only one in the whole junkyard.). I suppose even though the harness connected correctly to these parts, there could be a difference in the actual part between the 4.6 and the 5.4.
As far as swapping the harness, I figured it would be the best option. They were very similar, but there were one or two differences. I compared the plug pinouts and as best as I could tell, both harness had pins in the same locations, but my eyes aren't the best anymore and I was anxious to get the motor in. Also, the 4.6 harness had been patched a time or two and one of the coil connections was in bad shape. I still have the 4.6 harness if I need to swap it at some point.
Prior to the engine swap, the previous owner had purchased a tuner (Eagle, I think. I'll find out exactly which one when I get home) to correct the speedometer since the truck has oversized tires (35-36") and a 5.13 locker. He was trying to get some power out of the 4.6 with that gear, but it's a bit overkill for the 5.4. Not sure if he messed with anything other than the that, but the tune is still in the PCM as far as I know.
Since I have the donor truck still, would it be an option to swap the PCM and all accompanying items to help solve the issues? Or would that be more trouble than it's worth. I know I would have to swap the PCM, instrument cluster and whatever part of the ignition senses the chip key. Would that be all?
Ok, I think I've used up my word limit for the week, so I'll quit rambling. Thanks for the help.
P1000 - OBD II Monitor Testing Not Complete Conditions
P1270 - Engine RPM/Vehicle Speed Limiter Fault Conditions (this one could be from my son)
P1401 - DPF EGR Sensor Circuit High Conditions
P0175 (bank2) - Fuel System Too Rich Conditions
P1549 (bank1) - Intake Manifold Comm Ctrl Circuit
I've checked it a few times and these seem to be the most consistent ones. There may have been another one or two at some point though. About the only thing I used off of the 4.6 motor were the three "thingamajigs" that mount on a bracket together and sit on the right side of the intake manifold. One of them seems to be some kind of vacuum diverter/valve that three vacuum lines plug into, one has two rubber hoses coming from the exhaust manifold that connect to it and I believe the other has a wire connection to it. The bracket and "thingamajigs" from the 5.4 were misplaced somewhere but I was able to find the bracket at a U-Pull-It and mount the pieces to it. (Total lucky guess on my part too. It was laying in the floor of a junked out 98 and it looked like it might be the right bracket, so I got it. Only one in the whole junkyard.). I suppose even though the harness connected correctly to these parts, there could be a difference in the actual part between the 4.6 and the 5.4.
As far as swapping the harness, I figured it would be the best option. They were very similar, but there were one or two differences. I compared the plug pinouts and as best as I could tell, both harness had pins in the same locations, but my eyes aren't the best anymore and I was anxious to get the motor in. Also, the 4.6 harness had been patched a time or two and one of the coil connections was in bad shape. I still have the 4.6 harness if I need to swap it at some point.
Prior to the engine swap, the previous owner had purchased a tuner (Eagle, I think. I'll find out exactly which one when I get home) to correct the speedometer since the truck has oversized tires (35-36") and a 5.13 locker. He was trying to get some power out of the 4.6 with that gear, but it's a bit overkill for the 5.4. Not sure if he messed with anything other than the that, but the tune is still in the PCM as far as I know.
Since I have the donor truck still, would it be an option to swap the PCM and all accompanying items to help solve the issues? Or would that be more trouble than it's worth. I know I would have to swap the PCM, instrument cluster and whatever part of the ignition senses the chip key. Would that be all?
Ok, I think I've used up my word limit for the week, so I'll quit rambling. Thanks for the help.
#207
In the famous words of Mario. "Here we Go...."
Guys I have an old tired 1997 F150 with a 4.6L It has 250,000 miles on it now and Ive been reading this post for awhile... I wanted to rebuild my 4.6L, but this ongoing post has changed my mind. Before this truck I had a 1990 Toyota 4X4. It had a small 3VZE and I passed up on the 3.4L Swap when I built it. I have ever since regretted it because it ended up costing me the same to rebuild the 3VZE (junk) as it would have to put the 3.4L (minus the junkyard motor cost) and I was never happy. Although the motor ran until the day I bought my 1997 F150 it still lacked the power I needed at the high altitude I live at (9,000 Ft).
So this forum has inspired me to do the swap this time around. Thank you guys for the intial post and for the long running support of the thread.
Today I bought a 1999 Ford F250 5.4L seen here:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/140570780404...S:1123&vxp=mtr
I am going to rebuild the 5.4L and swap it out. I currently have a 1997 4X4, XLT, Off Road package, Super Cab, 4.6 Windsor, and the 5-Speed manual trans.
I will post pics as I go.. I am an old man (44 now) and not as young as I used to be but still enjoy working on cars. My first was a 1967 Olds.
If anyone is interested in any pics in particular along the way let me know...
So this forum has inspired me to do the swap this time around. Thank you guys for the intial post and for the long running support of the thread.
Today I bought a 1999 Ford F250 5.4L seen here:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/140570780404...S:1123&vxp=mtr
I am going to rebuild the 5.4L and swap it out. I currently have a 1997 4X4, XLT, Off Road package, Super Cab, 4.6 Windsor, and the 5-Speed manual trans.
I will post pics as I go.. I am an old man (44 now) and not as young as I used to be but still enjoy working on cars. My first was a 1967 Olds.
If anyone is interested in any pics in particular along the way let me know...
#208
Go for it. It's my opinion that the base gas V8 Ford should have put in these trucks is the 5.4. Not that here is anything wrong with the 4.6, it's just more of a passenger car motor to me. Works great in the Mustangs and Crown Vics, but most people want more torque out of a truck.
Protip: I was able to completely assemble the engine, intake manifold and all, and install it. I know most everyone recommends that you install before you put the manifold on, but I just didn't like the idea of putting the motor in half put together. Not to mention the pain of trying to get everything on it once it was in the truck. I modified a lift plate (like this http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mrg-33027g), by drilling it for the forward three holes on the intake, used some good long bolts to attach it to the intake and a peice of flat steel to "clamp" the plate with the back bolt as well. I was able to attach the hoist chain forward enough to clear the firewall and it worked quite well, it actually balanced very well using the front hole of the plate. I had assumed going in that I would have to use a small chain to keep the motor from tilting back too far, but it was not needed. You'll need to make sure you put the motor mounts in the frame mounts first and bolt them to the block once you have the tranny bolted up. They will not go in (easily) after the motor is in place and they cannot be mounted to the block during installation. I made the mistake of not putting the mounts in the truck ahead of time and it was a b***h to get them in.
Not sure what kind of setup you have to pull and install the engine so this may not be an option for you. Obviously, this will only work if you have the aluminium intake manifold (the '99 should be aluminium), don't try it with plastic. Also, my truck was a 4R70W, so I didn't have to worry about lining the clutch up. Just thought I'd throw it out there. I know it saved a lot of grief installing everything in the truck.
BTW, I'm 48, so you're not that old. I had a little fun with this one showing my 15 year old son the way it's done. I actually think he learned a little.
This thread was very helpful while doing the swap and though I still have the electronic issues to take care of, I'm happy with the outcome so far.
A couple of other links that I referenced while building the motor:
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums...mod-motor.html
http://www.torkspec.com/torkspecme.a...-5.4L-330ci-V8
Protip: I was able to completely assemble the engine, intake manifold and all, and install it. I know most everyone recommends that you install before you put the manifold on, but I just didn't like the idea of putting the motor in half put together. Not to mention the pain of trying to get everything on it once it was in the truck. I modified a lift plate (like this http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mrg-33027g), by drilling it for the forward three holes on the intake, used some good long bolts to attach it to the intake and a peice of flat steel to "clamp" the plate with the back bolt as well. I was able to attach the hoist chain forward enough to clear the firewall and it worked quite well, it actually balanced very well using the front hole of the plate. I had assumed going in that I would have to use a small chain to keep the motor from tilting back too far, but it was not needed. You'll need to make sure you put the motor mounts in the frame mounts first and bolt them to the block once you have the tranny bolted up. They will not go in (easily) after the motor is in place and they cannot be mounted to the block during installation. I made the mistake of not putting the mounts in the truck ahead of time and it was a b***h to get them in.
Not sure what kind of setup you have to pull and install the engine so this may not be an option for you. Obviously, this will only work if you have the aluminium intake manifold (the '99 should be aluminium), don't try it with plastic. Also, my truck was a 4R70W, so I didn't have to worry about lining the clutch up. Just thought I'd throw it out there. I know it saved a lot of grief installing everything in the truck.
BTW, I'm 48, so you're not that old. I had a little fun with this one showing my 15 year old son the way it's done. I actually think he learned a little.
This thread was very helpful while doing the swap and though I still have the electronic issues to take care of, I'm happy with the outcome so far.
A couple of other links that I referenced while building the motor:
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums...mod-motor.html
http://www.torkspec.com/torkspecme.a...-5.4L-330ci-V8
#209
Join Date: Dec 1997
Location: Windsor,Ontario,Canada
Posts: 9,417
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The last time I read and recorded the codes they were as follows:
P1000 - OBD II Monitor Testing Not Complete Conditions
P1270 - Engine RPM/Vehicle Speed Limiter Fault Conditions (this one could be from my son)
P1401 - DPF EGR Sensor Circuit High Conditions
P0175 (bank2) - Fuel System Too Rich Conditions
P1549 (bank1) - Intake Manifold Comm Ctrl Circuit
P1000 - OBD II Monitor Testing Not Complete Conditions
P1270 - Engine RPM/Vehicle Speed Limiter Fault Conditions (this one could be from my son)
P1401 - DPF EGR Sensor Circuit High Conditions
P0175 (bank2) - Fuel System Too Rich Conditions
P1549 (bank1) - Intake Manifold Comm Ctrl Circuit
#210
Ignore the P1000 and the P1270. The P1549 is from not reconnecting the intake manifold runner control. You could not do this because the 5.4 harness does not have an IMRC valve. The other two could be be because you din not use the 4.6 harness. I cannot say because I have never checked the pinouts on the two different harnesses. As for which harness to use: I used my 4.6 harness. Swapping an injector connector is a matter of removing the pins from the broken connector ant the good one and inserting them into the good one. Swap a PCM and all the harnesses or change a connector or two........