24. Ok now properly torque the ring bolts. This is VERY important to get correct. I’ll leave it up to you to get the specs for your own vehicle.
25. Ok now it’s time to put all this back into the housing. This can also be difficult if it was real tight getting out. Now is also a good time to check the other bearings and make sure they seem ok. If they seem worn replace them. Mine were fine so I didn’t.
26. Stick the races back on and maybe one spacer and slide the whole thing back into the rear end housing. The spacers are kind of brittle so be careful here. Use the wooden handle of a hammer and try to get the differential back in with the spacers in pace so you can slide the axles back in. I don’t really know what to tell ya here. Just get it in there and be careful so you don’t break the spacers.
27. Ok so now you got it back in. Slide in one of the axles and put back on the C clip. Then do the same with the other side. Then put the shaft back in and stick the bolt in. LOCKTITE!!!!
28. Note: My 4:88 ring was so wide that it blocked the shaft from going in straight so I couldn’t get it back in. If you run into this here is what I did. It was VERY VERY close to sliding in but needed just a bit more clearance. I grinded one tooth down on the ring with a dremel tool with a drum sanding attachment on it. I’m not sure if that was good or not but I don’t see a problem with it. And everything is good now 15K later.
29. Ok now that everything is back together it’s time to check the tolerances and hope that they are OK so you don’t have to do this all over again and find some new spacers and such.
30. First get out the Dial Caliper and check the backlash. The instructions that came with the gears should have the specs with them. Basically the backlash is the play that the ring and pinion have between them. Actually I think the backlash was a bit loose on mine. It was supposed to be 6-10 but mine came in at 11. But when I checked the pattern it was good so I went with it.
31. Checking the pattern: Get some gear-marking compound from your local auto parts store.
32. Ok I’m not going to go into what a good pattern looks like. Your instructions should explain this in enough detail for ya.
33. Ok if your pattern isn’t good and your backlash is off, you must change some spacers and I didn’t have to do that so that sucks for you. My rear end pattern came out almost perfect but the front wasn’t perfect. Just think about how much you actually use your 4x4 and see if you think it’s bad enough to warrant trying to get it better.
34. Ok let’s say your patterns are good. Now use some BLACK high temp RTV gasket maker and put your cover back on. Don’t over tighten the cover bolts. I think this is what I kept doing and I as squishing all the gasket maker out and that ‘s why I had trouble getting it to quit leaking.
35. I would suggest that u put the cover back on and let it set overnight or something so the gasket maker can set up. However my Mechanic buddy said that they always stick the fluid in right away and they have no problems so it’s up to you.
36. You must use synthetic 75-140 gear oil in these trucks! Double check with your auto parts dealer to make sure your buying the right stuff. IT”S FLIPPIN EXPENSIVE I KNOW THAT! Also be sure to add the friction modifier. You can buy that from FORD.
37. Ok fill it up to the fill hole and give er hell! Actually you should have a break-in procedure with your gears instructions that you should follow.
38. When you first take off down the road listen for gear noise. I’m pretty sure I didn’t have any but it would have been hard to hear over the tire noise of my 35” Claws and exhaust anyway!
39. If they do make noise it think that means they are too tight.
The front end is pretty much the same as the rear except you will need to take the entire differential out of the truck and do all the work on a bench. Also there is some 4x4 locking stuff in there. Just be careful taking it apart and put it back the way you took it apart!
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