2004 FORD F-150 DRIVEWAY TANK REMOVAL AND FUEL PUMP REPLACEMENT AND DIAGNOSIS (SEE NOTES ON BOTTOM OF POST 2004 FORD F-150 DRIVEWAY TANK REMOVAL AND FUEL PUMP REPLACEMENT BEFORE STARTING!!! )
1 REMOVE 3 SCREWS FROM AROUND FILLER NECK
2 LOOSEN HOSE CLAMP FROM INSIDE REAR DRIVERS WHEELWELL HOLDING FILLER NECK TO BED
3 POSITION JACK (LOW MOTORCYCLE JACK IS BEST) AGAINST TANK , REMOVE STRAPS,2 ˝ BOLTS
3a (IT IS A GOOD PRECAUTION TO HAVE LESS THAN Ľ TANK OF GAS) AND HAVE SOME SMALL 4 INCH BLOCKS TO LOWER TANK ON TEMPORAIRILY TO REMOVE WIRES AND HOSES
4 PULL WIRE HOLDERS (3 PUSH IN PLASTIC) FROM FRAME HOLDING WIRING HARNESS TO GIVE YOU MORE SLACK ON WIRES WHEN LOWERING TANK (LIFT WITH SCREWDRIVER THEN PRY OUT WITH NEEDLENOSE)
5 REMOVE HOSE CLAMP ON TANK HOLDING FILLER RUBBER TUBE (HAVING THE TANK ON THE JACK WITH STRAPS OFF YOU CAN MOVE IT A BIT TO THE RIGHT TO GIVE YOU A BIT MORE ACCESS, ALSO REMOVE FILLER VENT CLAMP , CUT WITH DYKES AND USE 3/8 HOSE CLAMP TO REPLACE.(REMOVE THE GAS CAP)
*note* THIS WILL BE THE HARDEST PART OF THE REMOVE / REPLACE , YOU DON’T HAVE MUCH ROOM AND YOU CANNOT LOWER THE TANK THAT MUCH OR YOU CAN SNAP THE NIPPLE OFF OF THE FUEL TANK
5a LOWER TANK ON BLOCKS
6 REMOVE POWER PLUGS FROM FUEL PUMP , PUSH OUT RED LOCK CLIP WITH FLATHEAD , PUSH DOWN TAB AND PULL PLUG OFF , REMOVE SENSOR PLUG BY PUSHING DOWN TAB AND PULL
7 REMOVE VENT CANISTER TUBE BY PUSHING IN YELLOW CLIP AND PULL UP , SAME WITH FILLER VENT TUBE GREEN CLIP , AND SMALL CANISTER TUBE , FUEL LINE PULL OUT TAB PUSH IN AND PULL UP
(TRY NOT TO BREAK ANY OF THE CLIPS , YELLOW ONE IS NEAR IMPOSSIBLE TO GET AND THE 3/8 AND 5/16 ARE $25.00 FOR THE KIT FROM THE DEALER, AND THE ONES FROM NAPA OR OTHER PART STORES WILL NOT WORK CORRECTLY, (HATE TO GET A LEAK AND REDROP THE TANK)
FORD PART #’S IF YOU DO BREAK THEM
#7L3Z9S317A = 5/16 KIT (FOR VENT TO CANISTER AND FILLER VENT, UNDER FUEL PUMP HOSE, AND FUEL FILTER)
#7L3Z9S317B = 3/8 KIT ( FOR FUEL LINE ON TOP OF PUMP)
#1F1Z9A317FA = 5/8 YELLOW CLIP (FOR CANISTER VENT HOSE)
8 DROP TANK TO GROUND, COVER OPEN FILLER HOLE ON TOP OF TANK (USED A RUBBER GLOVE), USE CAPS TO COVER OPEN NIPPLES ON TOP OF FUEL PUMP , MAKE A DIAGRAM OF WHERE EACH HOSE WAS REMOVED FROM (IMPORTANT CAUSE 3 OF THEM ARE THE SAME SIZE AND THE NEW PUMP WILL NOT BE MARKED) SLIDE TANK OUT FROM UNDER TRUCK , (HAD TO JACK MINE UP A BIT TO CLEAR FOOTRAILS)
9 CLEAN AROUND TOP OF FUEL PUMP WELL , USING WOOD IF POSSIBLE AND RUBBER MALLET (NO SPARKS)TAP AND SPIN OFF RETAINER FROM TOP OF PUMP, LIFT PUMP SLIGHTLY AND REMOVE QUICK CONNECT UNDER FUEL PUMP IN TANK , PULL OUT TAB AND PUSH IN THEN PULL OFF ( SOME TANKS MAY NOT HAVE THIS) , (PUMP MAY POP UP BY ITSELF WHEN RETAINER IS REMOVED)
10 ADD SOME OIL AROUND GASKET AND ALL QUICKCONNECT’S AND DON’T FORGET THE QUICKCONNECT UNDER THE PUMP , INSTALL NEW PUMP ASSEMBELY

NOTES
• ALL F-150 FUEL PUMP ASSEMBELYS (PUMP AND SENDER HANGER) ARE SOLD BY WHEELBASE , AND THIS IS IMPORTANT BECAUSE OF LENGTH AND DEPTH OF THE TANKS ON DIFFERENT MODELS.
• MINE WAS A 2004 F-150 5.4 4X2 SUPERCREW 138.4” WHEELBASE MY PUMP OPTIONS WERE , MOTORCRAFT P/N PFS208 , DELPHI #FG0846 ,CARTER P76343M,DENSO #953-4037, AIRTEK E2533M
• SOME GOOD INFO AND VIDEOS ON CLIP REMOVAL AND REPLACEMENT CAN BE FOUND HERE www.fuelpumpu.com/vehicle-search.aspx#
• 3 HOURS START TO FINISH , GET THE CLIPS BEFORE YOU START 5/16 AND 3/8 JUST IN CASE (ALWAYS CAN RETURN TO FORD IF UNOPENED). IF YOU BREAK THE YELLOW ONE ,USE THE ONE ON THE EVAP CANISTER(NEAR THE SPARE TIRE) TEMPORAILY AND REPLACE IT LATER , ATTACH THE HOSE WITH TAPE SO NO CODES , AND YOU CAN ALWAYS REPLACE IT LATER EASILY .
• MAKE SURE YOUR FUEL PUMP MODULE IS GOOD (ABOVE SPARE TIRE) USE A TEST LIGHT TO MAKE SURE YOU HAVE POWER (KEY ON NO START) TO THE WHITE WIRE , JUMPER ACROSS THE WHITE TO BLACK/PINK (POSITIVE) AND BLACK/YELLOW TO BROWN WHITE (NEGATIVE) ( OPPOSITE ENDS OF THE FP MODULE PLUG) TO SEE IF THE PUMP RUNS , IF IT DOES BAD MODULE !!
• I AM A BACKYARD MECHANIC AND DID THIS IN MY DRIVEWAY , IF I POSTED A PROCEDURE WRONG , SORRY JUST TRYING TO HELP !( THE WIRES ON MY PUMP INSIDE THE TANK WERE ACTUALLY MELTED OFF OF THE PUMP CONNECTORS ON MINE , CAUSED BY LETTING THE TANK GO EMPTY TOO MANY TIMES PUMP NOT SUBMERGED RUNS HOT , AND 130K OF MILES)

 

I think this is a first. A new members first post is a Tech Article. Good write up!

 

good info...you can also tilt bed for easy access without dropping tank

 

04 f150 130k miles. cranks but wont start. ive tried everything replaced fpsm, replaced filter, checked fuses, relays, haven't tested for power at the pump but what I have done is wack the tank with a rubber mallet, then I can hear the pump turn on truck starts then dies, had it running for a few minutes but then just died again so I repeated it started ran for a shorter period of time, so thinking my pump is just toast, seeing your year and mileage kinda confirms this , I was curious however if you had to do this again would you tilt the truck bed or drop the tank again, and how is your job holding up? any leaks or problems since? thanks in advance

 

You listed all the clips except the green clip for the filler tube. Do you have the part number for the Filler tube green clip, I broke it when I removed it. Thanks

7 REMOVE VENT CANISTER TUBE BY PUSHING IN YELLOW CLIP AND PULL UP , SAME WITH FILLER VENT TUBE GREEN CLIP , AND SMALL CANISTER TUBE , FUEL LINE PULL OUT TAB PUSH IN AND PULL UP

 

I lift the bed to change fuel pumps in pickup's only if you can get the bed bolts out(rust). Disconnect filler neck and rear light wiring and lift the bed. Bed has to be empty!!! remove those bags of cement first. LOL