Well, I initially started out to only clean the underbody of the truck so I could paint it and make it look nice again. But instead I figured since I had the truck lifted, I might as well change the fuel filter. I've changed the fuel filter on this thing 3 times already with not too much hassle. However, the last time I changed it, I happened to notice that the quick disconnect wasn't quite working correctly. However, I got the filter changed. This time around, I was in for a big surprise. The pins that hold the filter cartidge in somehow bent themselves. I cut the filter off, and then examined the situation. I then got the bright idea to call my local Ford dealer and have them quote me for a new fuel line. They wanted over $100 for just the fuel line. So I laughed, and said no way Jose.
Also, changing filters from now on will be a breeze. I'm liking that it broke.
Total Cost: $10.62.
Total Labor: 1 hour (beginner). 10 minutes (pro).
Difficulty rating: Requires some basic automotive knowledge.
So how did I fix it? No biggie...
Here's the tools you need to get the job done right:
- New Motorcraft FG-1083 Fuel Filter
- 3-22mm Midget Pipe cutter
- 3/8" ID Fuel-Injected Fuel Hose - 2 feet
- 3 Fuel-Injected Hose clamps that fits 3/8" ID - 5/16" ID hoses.
- Flat Head Screw Driver
- 13mm ratchet with extension
- PB Blaster/WD40 Lubricant
- Safety Goggles/Nitrile Gloves and some shop rags.
Make sure the truck is cooled off, and you have some sort of eye protection and hand protection!!!
Step 1: Disconnect the fuel filter on the blue clip end. Some fuel will might spray out (use caution!). Ensure most of the fuel is drained out of the lines.
(Yeah, I cheated and just took it off the unsafe way!)
Step 2: Get your 13mm ratchet with extension, and remove the bolt that holds the fuel rail bracket onto the transmission. Use some PB Blaster or WD40 to help break the bolt loose. Carefully take the mount off the transmission. This aides in giving more room to work on the fuel rail when cutting the line.
Step 3: Get your Midget pipe cutter and begin cutting right after the bend, to match what I've got in the picture below:
Step 4: Prepare your 3/8", 2' Fuel-Injected Fuel Rated hose with the 3 Fuel-Injected Hose clamps that fits 3/8" ID - 5/16" ID hoses.
Step 5: Slip the hose on to the fuel rail and use your screw driver to tighten the the clamps down. They should be tightened a little past hand tighten. Don't over do it, or it might crush the line or bust the hose clamp.
Step 6: Route the hose away from the catalytic converter and exhaust pipes.
Step 7: Slip other end of hose onto the fuel filter and tighten the hose clamp.
Step 8: Check for any leaks by cycling ignition from "Off" to "Run" position several times and carefully inspecting the hose connections. Stop if you notice anything wrong!!
Step 9: Return the fuel rail bracket to it's respective location and reapply the nut and tighten it using the 13mm ratchet with the extension.
Step 10: If all is well, the job is done and it should look something similar to this: