Those codes sound more like an electrical issue, since it's related to a circuit malfunction for the CPS'. Word is that a bad diode in the alternator can cause enough electrical noise to play havoc on the cam position sensors. Also check your fuses to make sure there isn't any issues there.

As far as diagnosing if you have bad cam phasers... let the motor warm up and listen to it at idle. You should hear a diesel like rattle from one or both of the heads, towards the front of the engine. If you hear noise from them, and you turn your truck off and unplug the VCT solenoids and start it back up and it's quiet, then it's the phasers.

 

Dorman is now offering these phasers. I was lucky enough to find them on Amazon for $82.40 ea. Now they're usually $101. They are made in China, but I've read they are a quality piece. Dorman also makes VCT solinoids which are about $50 ea. I bought those also, but I'm not sure if they are the current small opening version. These parts are easy enough to change, I'm willing to give them a try.

I've spent a lot of time looking into this and will be doing the guides and tensioners at the same time using OE parts. I'll be reusing the chains and gaskets depending on condition. The original tensioners blow the gaskets which causes oil pressure problems ( I read online the problem gaskets are orange). I'm sure the job will take a weekend, and I should have about $500 in parts into it.

The other thought I had was just locking or limiting the phasers and installing a used set of Mustang GT cams and tuning to regain lost HP. I'm having some trouble finding the specs on the specs on each of them, so I'm not sure what the effect on driveability will be. The GT is a 315hp 4.6 the truck is a 300hp 5.4.

 

thanks for the awesome write up and pics, ill be doing this as soon as I have all the parts

 

For those looking to do this properly and avoid the problem returning a few thousand miles later, you need to replace the chain tensioners. The gaskets used by Ford on the tensioners were defective and failed, leaking oil, which resulted in low oil pressure at hot idle to the upper engine, especially the phasers. If you don't replace the leaking tensioners, then you risk the newly installed phasers failing a few thousand miles later.

Here are the cheapest quality part sources I can find:

Cloyes Timing kit, including both chains, crank sprocket, chain guides and improved tensioners: $160.79 http://www.rockauto.com/dbphp/x,cata...S_90391SB.html

Dorman Cam Phasers (2 needed), part number is the same for both sides: $101.62

Valve cover gasket set: $50.66

Front timing cover gasket set, which includes the crank seal and VCT housing gaskets: $41.65

Your total is $456.34 before any shipping and tool rental. Most of the shipping is free if you choose the slowest method for the items ordered through Amazon. This will get the entire job done and done right.

 

For those looking to do this properly and avoid the problem returning a few thousand miles later, you need to replace the chain tensioners. The gaskets used by Ford on the tensioners were defective and failed, leaking oil, which resulted in low oil pressure at hot idle to the upper engine, especially the phasers. If you don't replace the leaking tensioners, then you risk the newly installed phasers failing a few thousand miles later.

Here are the cheapest quality part sources I can find:

Cloyes Timing kit, including both chains, crank sprocket, chain guides and improved tensioners: $160.79 http://www.rockauto.com/dbphp/x,cata...S_90391SB.html

Dorman Cam Phasers (2 needed), part number is the same for both sides: $101.62

Valve cover gasket set: $50.66 or $49.79 here: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1431304,parttype,10710,a,Search%2Bfor%2BCLOYES%2B90391SB

Front timing cover gasket set, which includes the crank seal and VCT housing gaskets: $38.79 for the Fel Pro. I haven't heard of the other brand here: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,ca...OYES%2B90391SB

Your total is ~$450 before any shipping and tool rental. Most of the shipping is free if you choose the slowest method for the items ordered through Amazon. This will get the entire job done and done right.

 

I know this is an old thread, but it helped me, so I am adding this in case it can help others dealing with the cam phaser issue. I will be as brief as possible, but this will take a while.

I got my 2004 Supercrew FX4 with about 16k miles in 2006. It always made the ticking sound, but it never bothered me enough to do something about it. I did not know about the phaser issue until I had a bigger issue. Bottom line - I can't imagine doing this procedure just for the noise. Too much hassle for (to me) a non essential issue. Other common issues I've battled through: the spark plug fiasco (2 out of 8 broke, the Lisle tool worked great!), and replacement of the IWE actuators. I'm not a pro, but I'm decent with tools and only go to a mechanic when it's something I can't handle.

My truck started leaking oil and it got worse. I couldn't tell where it was coming from, so I added oil when needed and was careful where I parked. Then at about 182k it suddenly started running horribly and I limped into a local shop to check it out. They told me the timing chain wore a hole through the cover, causing the leak, and that the timing was way off. They told me it would be at least $3000 to fix, and that there may be other issues, and I might be throwing money away. I paid them $89 for the diagnosis and drove it home.

I didn't have $3000 or the desire to pay a garage for a questionable repair so I did a lot of reading online and decided to tackle it myself. It was my daily driver, so I had to rent a car for work.

When I opened it up, I found there was hardly anything left of the timing chain guides. As a result, the chains were so loose that the passenger side ground a hole in the cover (causing the oil leak) and the driver side chain was so loose, it had jumped a couple of teeth, causing the timing issue.

I ordered new chains, tensioners, guides, and cam phasers from Rock Auto. The phasers didn't look bad, but I thought while I had everything apart, I should replace them, given the high mileage and the prevalence of the issue I had read about.

I didn't unhook the a/c, so I couldn't remove the passenger side valve cover. I moved the ECM and moved the valve cover up enough to get the phaser off. The power steering pump removal, and re-install was the worst part of the whole thing. Absolutely stupid design. I hope I never meet a Ford F150 engineer in person...

I got everything back together, changed the oil, and she ran great. Overall, it took several weekends of work. I changed the oil again after 1000 miles. After a while it started running a little rough, not idling well, but I thought it was something else. At about 188k, it started running as bad as the first time. Unplugging all four of the driver side plugs had no effect, it was running so bad, so I tore it down again. The dreaded power steering pump, timing cover, everything removed, but the chains, tensioners, and guides looked fine. The brand new Dorman cam phaser had broken. The coil spring literally broke, causing it to be way off. Luckily, it was on the drivers' side, easier to get to. I shipped it to Rock Auto, and as soon as I gave them the tracking number, they sent a new one to me, no charge. Unfortunately, no reimbursement on labor! Got it back together, and it ran great. I thought I would never have to deal with it again, I mean what were the chances I would get another failure?

Chapter three. At 194k, suddenly, the same symptoms. This time I went to Advance Auto and bought a cheap scantool ($59). Here are the codes:
P0022
P0171
P0175
P0300
P0305
P0307
P0308
P0340
P0345
P0420
P0306

With these codes all indicating bank 2 issues, and the fact that unplugging all four plugs had no effect, I removed the driver's valve cover. I couldn't see any visible damage to the phaser, but it made a clicking sound and it jumped forward when turning the crank. Paying for a rental car, I didn't have time to go into it further and then wait for a new phaser to arrive. I still wasn't sure the phaser was bad. I spoke to Rock Auto, bought a new phaser, and paid for next day shipping ($46) to get a phaser to me on Friday of Labor Day weekend. If the phaser wasn't bad, I could return it for a refund. If it was bad, they would reimburse me for my purchase. Either way I would be out the $46 for shipping, but if it enabled me to get it done over the weekend, that is a lot cheaper than another week of renting a car.

I didn't have the wedge tool so that I could replace the phaser without removing the timing cover again, but I read on some forum (I can't remember which one - I would really like to thank the guy) that someone used a roll of electrical tape as a wedge with a wire to retrieve it. I took a two-thirds roll of electrical tape, tied a strap to it, and jammed it in with a rod. Here's the tool:

That's right, A roll of tape kept me from having to remove the timing cover. I was able to remove the phaser and the chain stayed in place. I found that the pin on the back of the phaser that keeps it lined up with the camshaft had sheared off. Luckily, I found the pieces. Here's what it looked like:

I was able to get the old phaser off and the new one one without loosening the camshaft. It was pretty easy, just be sure to have your vice grips securely fastened. I'm a home builder, so I use wood wherever possible! Here's how I kept the cam shaft in position for the notch to line up:


I hope I am done with this issue. I can't think of any reason that my truck or my actions caused either phaser to fail, but it is a coincidence. Keep in mind, I don't think the original phasers failed. If I could do it over again, I would probably pay the additional money and install Ford OEM phasers.

 

Great post, Grail! Thanks for your input!

 

Wow, great first post! You should stick around, you could probably help a lot of folks out on here.

 

Grail,

Thanks for a great write up. I am going through nearly the same hassle now. I changed all the timing components just as you did about 10 months ago. It ran great for a few months, now the problem is when it starts up cold, it sounds as it if has had all the oil drain out of the top of the engine until the oil pressure comes back up. It also does it even worse when it gets really hot after it has ran for a while and been shut off. I finally got the check engine light on with a cam position sensor error when I was driving it the other day. Checked oil level, changed oil, I am using the correct oil and Motorcraft filter. Had a local ford mechanic look at it and he wants to tear it all down again as he believes there is something rattling under the timing cover. My question is, does any one believe that if one of the tensioners or phasers has gone bad, would this allow oil to drain from the top of the engine and give me that loud rattle at start up? Any advice is appreciated.

I am going to be opening it back up this weekend to see if anything is obvious.

 

A leaking tensioner will do this, as oil pressure has to build in the tensioner before it reaches the cylinder head. Next time you start the engine under the conditions that cause the noise, do this: Hold the accelerator all the way to the floor and then crank the engine for several seconds. A 5-10 second crank should do it. Don't worry, the engine will not start. This is a specific procedure in the PCM to start a flooded engine. Holding the accelerator to the floor opens the throttle body all the way and shuts the injectors off (while cranking). This will crank the engine slowly, allowing oil pressure to build without starting the engine. Release the starter and then the accelerator. Then start the engine as normal and listen for the sound. If the sound is gone consistently, you know you have an oil pressure leak down problem somewhere- most likely the cam chain tensioners.

You should also use the above procedure before startup after an oil change. After an oil change, you have to fill the filter with oil before pressure can build in the engine. Crank for at least 10 seconds with the accelerator held down to get good pressure throughout the engine.

 

Given the reply just below mine (that I am quoting) above, and many others I have since seen regarding early failures of the Dorman phasers, I would no longer recommend them. Go with genuine Motorcraft parts here.

 

can anyone help I have the 05 F150 5.4 3V, 4WD with 200,000+ miles.
had the well known rattle and stall at idle I knew it wasn't good so I tore it down phasers seemed ok but sure enough guides were shattered and down in the oil pan so I dropped the oil pan ( not that bad of a job really ) takes about an hour to drop it, anyway cleaned the pan and figured while in there with the mileage I would throw a set of rod bearings in it pulled some caps and bearings are like new so left that alone but did install a new oil pump, chains, tensioners, guides, phasers, note: phaser on bank 2 pins fell out in my hand when I pulled it, and when I put new phaser bank 2 cam the dow pin felt a little sloppy so I put a new cam shaft on bank 2 ( have spent so much $$$ on it that I could not afford a new cam for bank 1 and it seemed fine, new cam sensors, VCT solenoids, crank sensor. when I had the cam and VCTs out oil ports are clean running 5W20 synthetic, reassembled engine know that timing is dead on. start it up sounds good runs the warm up high rpm then idles down and keeps idling down to about 200 rpms and shakes and rattles but if I throttle it up runs great just won't idle so I tore it back down second guessing myself and everything was good CEL came on giving me P0345 and P0349, 2 codes set and the same codes pending I was going nuts because I did everything right I should also mention that I was supposed to start a new job the next day after this truck went down not a good impression to not be there your first week on a new job but they are very understanding and it is my only transportation, so with little hair left now I ran a fiber optic camera around the engine looking for anything and sure enough when I took the left valve cover off while fighting the metal tube that carries vacuum to the brake booster I found that it hooks to a rubber hose behind the head and runs to the back of the plenum and that I had knocked it off the port ( now that was fun! you can't even touch it with your fingers because its so tight between the firewall and engine so off comes the plenum hooked the hose up to the port reassembled top of engine started it up and runs better then the day I drove it off the lot no noise at all at temp all you hear is the injectors, huge difference in fuel usage to the better. I should also mention that ford installed or said they installed new phasers three different times when I took this truck to them for noise and it was always just as noisy when I picked it up as when I dropped it off to them I raised hell with them everytime and they just had that stupid look on their face and said they all make noise like that and it always stumbled on take off so I went there and made the Service Manager get in the truck with me to show him how it ran he said that's normal so I asked him if it was normal for the engine to use a qt. or more of oil every 3000 miles since it was new he said yeah that's acceptable so I told him to get out of my truck two blocks from the dealership and left. sorry to ramble on but feel like you need to hear the history, but back to present truck runs better then new idles great no noise at operating temp and great fuel mileage but can not get rid of the codes, I'm in Hagerstown,Maryland and we have emission testing here every two years and the C EL active will fail it and you guessed it my truck is due for testing. cam sensor Ohms out at .478and I have .4 volts on hot lead at connector with key on.

Anyone ran into this before? and what did you do?

 

Thanks for the response and the advice on using the accelerator pedal to bring up the oil pressure.

After tearing it down this weekend, I found both tensioners with blown out seals, both guides completely destroyed, the tensioner arms damaged, and the inside of the front cover all beat up from the chains hitting it. Chains also skipped some teeth. The phasers looked fine. The right tensioner was the worst culprit as it had a huge opening under the gasket seal where all the oil would just drain right out causing my issue I explained in an earlier post. I replaced all the damaged parts and used Genuine Ford tensioners. When I replaced these about 5000 miles ago I used the Coyles 9 pc. kit. Although the box says Made in USA, the tensioners are made in Taiwan. They are crap and have poorly made gaskets and plunger seals. I would not recommend anyone use this kit, spend the extra and get genuine Ford tensioners.

Thanks again!

 

After replacing the tensioners, guides, arms and chains, put it all back together, changed the oil/filter, primed the engine until oil pressure came up, it started and sounded really good. However, the next morning, I started it and had the same really bad knocking sound for a couple of seconds! Now I am thinking that the tensioners were not the only problem, the Dorman phasers are the problem. I replaced the original ones with the Dorman phasers back last January. I am going to get Ford phasers now and change those out, but before I do, does any think there could be another reason for the loud knock/rattle sound at start up, such as the VCT solenoids, the solenoid gaskets, or the solenoid actuators(which I replaced last January as well).

Thanks in advance for any advice

 

Turned out that the left cam phaser was the problem. Replaced both with Ford phasers and it starts and runs great now. Also, made my own wedge tool from a piece of plastic block and wire. I will post later on how I made it and its dimensions if anyone would like to make one themselves. Worked perfectly.