First………there are about 4,000,000 ways to do this…..the following is my way.

I’ve read about systems for several years and finally got motivated enough get off of it and install one.

How did I get motivated?????? By driving around for the ump-tenth time at 3AM trying to find air for a trailer/truck tire only to find broken equipment at gas stations, systems with a 8 ft hose that you have to back to multiple times to get the trailer close enough to……and that’s after bypassing all the $$$-for-air crap. And I’ve been through several of the cigarette lighter so-called compressor units which are useless.

I have 3 cars (15 tires), 1 trailer (3 tires), 1 lawn mower (4 tires), 1 cart (2 tires) for a total of 24 tires. Not to mention the family trailers/equipment I occasionally use…….about 13 additional tires for a total of about 37 tires. That does not begin to address the additional uses (air blower, air tools, inflatables, etc. etc.).

CANNED SYSTEMS:
I looked at canned systems to include Kilby, Viair, ExtremeAire, PowerTank, ARB and others. All are better than being without air and having nothing, some are way overpriced and impractical. I decided after all my research to build my own.

BASIC MATERIALS LIST:
Pump – SuperFlow MV50 (same as MasterFlow MF-1050)
Tank – 3 gallon aluminum 7” x 20” 5 port tank
Pressure Switch – EasyStreet or Viair 85psi on – 105psi off
Hose – 3/8” push-on rubber hose (about 20-25’)
Whip – 3/8” braided stainless 3’ length (optional)
Check Valve – 3/8”
Relay – standard 30-40 amp 4 way
Fuse Holder – 30 amp fuse holder with 30 amp fuse
Electrical Wire – 16 gauge for fuse-to-pressure switch connection
16 gauge for pressure switch-to-relay connection
16 gauge for relay-to-ground
12 gauge for battery-to-fuse holder
Misc Wiring Connectors
Misc Hose Connections
Misc Stainless Steel screw/bolts hardware (all from Lowe’s)
Drill Bit – 5/8” (and a few smaller ones for bolts/screws)
Tap – 1/4” NPT thread tap
Washers/Spacer – 1/2" x 2” stainless washer (from Lowe’s) ,…drill to 5/8” center
Teflon Tape

TOOLS
Drill
Electrical Pliers (cutting and crimping)
Wrenches (hose fittings)
Ratchet Wrench (mounting bolts for pump & tank)

 

THE PUMP & PUMP INSTALL:

(NOTE: During installation leave the pump switch off.)

(NOTE 2: Before you install the pump………remove the stock air quick connect fitting and re-tap/thread the fitting to 1/4" NPT thread (mine was not 1/4” NPT). You can remove the 4 allen screws on top of the compressor/cylinder housing to remove the cylinder head. Use some paper towel to stuff around below the hole you are tapping to catch and remove the metal filings. Yes….you need to mod your mod before you mod. Now that you are properly tapped, install a male industrial quick connect with a 1/4” NPT male thread……….this will allow for use of the pump before project is complete. You will change this fitting later.)

Why did I choose the SuperFlow MV50?? I’ve been reading raving reviews on this pump for 4-5 years on other off-road sites, jeep sites, and this web site. I’ve read comparisons between this pump and other $200-$1,000 pumps. The performance of this pump, from my reading, is incredible for a $60 pump. It does not outperform all……but…….it outperforms most. Spend $600 or $60……….your choice.

This is no cigarette lighter unit. It will pull 30 amps. Thus………the big battery clips and no cigarette lighter option.

Where to mount it in an F-150?? Good luck. I wanted it under the hood for protection from the weather/elements.



This is about the only way I could figure to do it. I used an aluminum plate from Go-Devil Manufacturing (they are local) and secured with stainless steel screws/bolts to the plate over the driver fender well and the drivers side of the engine bay wall. (NOTE: Not the best mounting plate. If I did it over again I would use an “L” shaped plate/bracket slightly wider than the pump, secured only to the wall of the engine bay in the same location. The pump could be mounted to the bottom of the “L” bracket and the slightly wider width would allow for several bolts/screws into the engine bay wall.). Bushings should be used between the pump and the mounting plate to help isolate the pump. Using rubber gasket or some form of isolator between the engine bay wall and mounting plate/bracket is advisable (just let that pump vibration hit your vehicle metal and you’ll know why).

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PUMP & RELAY WIRING:
The pump comes with alligator clips. Put tape on or mark the pump wire with the red alligator clip about 1”-2” behind the clip. Now cut off the clips and pull the pump wire to your relay location. I mounted mine below the cowl on the passenger side of the engine (less total wire to the battery, fuse, and pressure switch).



I pulled the wire through the cowl area to the relay. The marked wire (that had the red alligator clip) goes to the relay…..the other to ground right behind the relay.

Connect the fuse holder to the relay.



Wire the fuse holder to the positive battery terminal.

You have one more terminal left on the relay. That will be for the wire from the pressure switch (see Pressure Switch installation).

 

TANK and INSTALLATION:
I chose a 3-gallon aluminum tank (there are 100’s of tank possibilities). The volume seemed right for the pump capacity and my primary intended use. I am weight conscious and the aluminum will minimize weight and be resistant to rust.

(NOTE: Before mounting the tank…you should lay out your system and figure out which ports on your tank you will use. You will probably want all plugs, drains, and air connectors secured on the tank before installing the tank.)
I mounted the tank on the outer frame rail under the passenger seat. Notice that the tank is just behind a large (about 1”) hole in the side of the frame rail which allowed for the air hose path.



To mount, I simply used two Stanley “L” brackets from Lowe’s (PTM frame rail of course). I installed 2-bolts on the inside frame rail and one on the bottom of the frame rail (to help support the “L” bracket and tank). I left about 1/8”-1/4” of space between the frame rail and tank to eliminate contact of the tank and frame rail.

 

PRESSURE SWITCH and WIRING:
The EasyStreet Pressure switch (85psi – 105psi) is designed to come on (complete the circuit) at 85psi and shut off (open circuit) at 105psi. It comes with 1/8” NPT fitting. I had to use a 1/2” to 1/8” bushing to install the switch in the tank.



Now let’s wire the pressure switch. 2-wires.
One prong of the switch (doesn’t matter which one) needs a low amp power source preferably switched (wire 1), and the other (wire 2) needs to be run to the relay (probably about 8-10 feet each). Put connectors on 2-wires (to connect to pressure switch), and run them down the frame rail and up into the engine bay…..

Run these wires up the firewall behind the battery, sorta.



Now run one (wire 1) over to the relay (I ran it over the top of the PCM with the battery-to-fuse wire).
The other wire (wire 2)…. I ran through the grommet in firewall (PAIN IN THE ****) and to the fuse panel. Pick a switched fuse and tap it. I chose #xxxx, a 10 amp . This way my pump will never run unless the key is on (protection from system malfunction and total battery loss).


ELECTRICAL/PUMP TEST:
You can now flip the pump switch……..turn your ignition switch to on………if the pump turn on you’re good. If not…………you need to double check your electrical.

Now turn your pump switch off in case you have to go to the store for some milk before you finish the project.

If you installed the quick connect in the pump……….you can use your pump anytime before you complete the tank plumbing…..etc.

 

AIR PLUMBING:
I used 3/8” ID fittings, hose, and check valve all the way to my bumper. I read that doing this between the pump and tank will reduce the work of the pump trying to force air to the tank………..so I stayed with it for 2 more connectors and about 8-10 feet of hose to get me to the bumper. Made things simple to me.

All (almost) air NPT fittings should be wrapped with Teflon tape or use appropriate pipe dope to seal connections.

Here’s my air plumbing:
1 – 1/4" NPT block elbow at pump male-female
2 – Male-female connector (rotating)
3 – 3’ of 3/8” braided stainless whip w/ 1/4" NPT connections
4 – 3/8” check valve
5 – 3/8” ID push on connector with 1/4" NPT fitting
6 – 3/8” push on hose (about 10 feet)
7 - 3/8” ID push on connector with 1/4" NPT fitting (in to tank)





I ran the plumbing out of the engine bay to the level of the frame rail, under the fan shroud, and across to the front of the passenger frame rail. The hose was then fished through the passenger frame rail to the tank.





Now from the rear of the tank:
8 - 3/8” ID push on connector with 1/4" NPT fitting
9 - 3/8” push on hose (about 10 feet)



Run the hose down the frame rail, over the spare tire and to the rear bumper on the back side of the license plate.



Locate your ideal location for your quick connect and grab your 5/8” drill bit. Prepare to drill a hole in the plastic overlay of the bumper. With a bad drill and bit this hole will take 2-3 seconds to drill. With a good drill and bit, 0-1.5 seconds. You will also need to drill out the 1/2” opening in the stainless washers unless you found some with 5/8” center hole………….I did not.

10 - 3/8” ID push on connector with 1/4" NPT male fitting
11 – 1/2” x 2” stainless washer (drilled out to 5/8”)
12 - 1/2” x 2” stainless washer (drilled out to 5/8”)
13 – 1/4" industrial Female quick connect with female 1/4” female NPT (screw through 5/8” hole in bumper to connect to item 10)

I created a bulkhead fitting to pass through the bumper overlay by screwing the Female quick connect (with female NPT) directly into the male push-on fitting (with male NPT). I needed a spacer for tight fit and added support. The 2 stainless washers worked perfect, one on each side of the bumper.

Rear of bumper:



Front of bumper:



The end result:

 

TESTING:
Now……………turn the ignition on, flip the pump switch…………and………………..wa-la.

It should take about 2 minutes or so for the system to pressure up to 105 psi. At this point……….you can check for leaks and touch up connections as needed. It may take a few days for you to monitor the system and secure air leaks……or…….use some soapy water to spay connectors to check for air.


FINAL TOUCHES:

The cheap poly hose that came with your pump is great to have…………..but…………it’s not very long, can crack in cold, and will not take much abuse. I did keep mine and change the fittings (from a female to male quick connect) and kept this hose for an extra and extension.

So……… I got one of these 30’ polyurethane hoses with coiled protectors at the connections-ends.

(14-Coil Hose Pic)

You will need an air chuck of some sort. There are 100’s of combinations of gauge/chuck assemblies. Take your pic. I just put a simple standard chuck.

Again…………..there are millions of ways to do this install. 100’s of compressors………tanks……….and variations of hose, connectors, etc. Use your imagination and don’t ever be without air. Enjoy!!

The End

 

Pump:
Superflow MV-50
MasterFlow (Tsunami) MF-1050
(From my reading these are the same pump... MV-50 = MF-1150)
Pump Comparison
Possible Pump Modification

Tank:
My 3-Gal Aluminum Tank
Other Tanks
More Tanks
(Just Goggle "Air Tanks" and find all you will ever want)

Pressure Switches:
Switches
More Switches

Polyurethane Coil Hose:
My Choice

Canned Systems:
ViAir
Extreme Outback - ExtremeAire
Kilby
PowerTank - CO2 Systems
ARB

Hope this helps!!! Enjoy!!!

 

Great How-To!!!

 

+1
that is an awesome setup, great job man.

 

IMPRESSIVE!!! I feel you pain driving around late at night looking for a pump, im usually at at 4am trying to find one for my boat trailer.

Btw very clever with the license plate masking, i thought it was funny

 

Yep..........it seems like it's usually 3-5am when I suddenly realize I need air.........when I'm headed out hunting or fishing. Really doesn't matter when it is, it's nice to have air when you need it.

Glad you liked the license plate...........I enjoyed it as well. I'm really enjoying it tonight...........31-17............pigs must really fly.

 

AWESOME JOB!

Mind if I ask what the total cost was?

 

Awesome write up! Thank you! I have actually been trying to do something similar myself. haha! I like your license plate cover up.

 

Thanks for the comments.

As far as cost:
Superflow MV=50 Pump - $65
3 Gal Al Tank - $80
35' Coil Hose - $35
Al Pump Base - $11
Tank Angle Brackets - $15
20' 3/8" Push-On Hose - $56
105psi/85psi Pressure Switch - $25
3' 3/8" braided wire whip - $25
Total of Major Components - $312

Plus Misc Hardware, air fittings, wiring components - $100

Rounded Grand Total = about $400

You could easily add to this by paying more for the major components (pump, tank, etc.).

You can easily reduce the cost a number of ways.
1) I paid $2.50/foot for 20' of 3/8" hose..........I probably could have ordered online for much less or used less hose (10' to the tank only and put a quick connect on/near the tank). You could mount the pump and tank in your bed (or tool box) and hardly use any hose. Maybe a few feet more in wire.
2) If you have some fittings laying around for the air plumbing and quick connects, wire and connectors, bolts/nuts/etc. this will help.
3) If you have equipment to fabricate your own mounting brackets for the pump and tank you can probably do better for less.
4) You may even be able to fab your own tank. I checked before I started and Sch 40 PVC is well within the limits of this system. You could hang a piece of 1.5"-6" ID PVC pipe on the frame rail, tap your own ports in where you want 'em and have a great tank. Many other pieces of pipe you have laying around could be used.
5) The 3' section of braided hose is not necessary. I just ran it to get down to the frame rail area before starting with the rubber push-on hose. I thought it might last longer in the engine bay area with the added heat, etc.

I feel like I have a much better system than you can get in a canned system for $400.
1) I have a great little pump that is cheaper than most parts on my truck.
2) My Al tank is light weight and will probably be here when I'm gone since it is not prone to rust (every canned system I found had a steel tank).
3) My upgrade to 3/8" hose to tank should reduce strain on the pump which should help the pump last longer

Anyway...........there are lots of ways to build a system like this and many ways to adjust the cost of the project.