lol. I've got news for you; ANY water/coolant mix at 230 degrees will cause severe burns. The difference here is that at 270 degrees, your engine will be toast as well. You would be much wiser to teach the driver to read the warnings about removing a radiator cap from a hot engine, because in either case, they will be severely burned.

 

Go here: http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/cooling/cool_200c.htm it explains it

Here's the paragraph you need to read:

If you have a 50/50 blend, this won't happen. Unless the temp gets VERY VERY high, in which case the engine will be running like crap, and you realize you should have stopped a long time ago. Also, newer engines will go into failsafe cooling before this happens.

 

No doubt. It will burn you just as well, but it won't be spewed out of the radiator, cause it won't be boiling. That's what gets people. They open the cap and they get a surprise! You're right though, It's a shame that people just don't know what their vehicles are capable of....

 

If you believe that a 50/50 mix won't spew out when the cap is opened @ 230 degrees, you're mistaken. The radiator cap retains pressure. When the cap is removed, the pressure is released, and the fluid is expelled.

A 50/50 mix will run hotter than a 25/75 mix, and won't provide any additional benefits to the vehicle, and in fact will increase the chance of damage occuring. Not all vehicles have failsafe systems, and those that do often don't work until damage has already occured. It's like telling someone not to worry about checking their oil because the idiot light will come on if they get too low.

Look, you can do whatever you think is wise, but if your argument is over what might happen to someone foolish enough to open the cap on a hot engine, it's apples and oranges. In both cases, there is likely to be severe burns.

 

Go crank your truck up, and open the coolant cap. I guranantee it won't spew water everywhere. It will just let off air.

As for the mix, this is a stupid argument. Go to the Ford place and ask them what blend to use. If they say us a 35% blend, I'll mail you $10. You have my word.

 

LOL!!! Thanks, that was funny!

So I guess it's just air that goes into the overflow tank? Hmmmm. Must be pretty humid air. lol. You're right, this is a stupid argument. Go to one of the other threads in which you argue your point, there are a couple of good reads there for you.

 

Um... Your coolant resevoir is not supposed to be full all the way to the top.

 

And why do you suppose there are different levels for "hot" and "cold"?

 

Okay after searching, I havent exactly found a way to clean out the old green coolant, and replace it with what the truck orignally came with which was the orange coolant.

I had a shop do my first change at 89K (I was working 7x 16 hour days) and they didnt tell me they were going to change to green coolant B4 doing it. I called the Service Technician at Jones Ford in Buckeye and told him what the shop did and he said that the shop did a big Dis-service to you, because you will end up changing it more often especially since it gets really hot in the summer time. I want the orange (or even the yellow) stuff back, I dont like changes w/o knowing about them first. Does anyone belive in the WaterWetter stuff? or is this just a hoax, to coax more money out of your wallet? What exactly does this stuff do?

 

If you're asking how to flush it, just thoroughly flush it. If you're concerned about it running hot, reduce the percentage of coolant in your mix. Water wetter does work, we use it in racing all the time.

 

All the coolant info is on the motorcraft website.
The color coolant used is determined by where the vehichle was made and the date and by what state sold in, as dealer new
Seems that different vendors parts are sensitive to the chemical mix needed as well as enviormrntal laws in places like Ca. Any surprise there?.
The mix should be between 40 and 60%.
Check it all out and be come eddddddd-ucated.

 

I guess Im lucky then. My 50/50 mix has never gotten over 200 degrees.

I am running water-wetter though.

 

I don't know what is being done here but the thermostat controls the engine temp as you see on your plot.
Boiling points are a function of the mix and system pressure.
Playing with the mix should never be nessesary in a fault free engine.
Plain water is the best at cooling but has no ability to provide corrosion protection or freeze protections.
Anti freeze use covers all this as well as something no one ever thinks about. In air conditioning, the heater core could actually freeze in some systems without some anti freeze in the coolant.
So all this other chest expansion is nonsense about it.
Our sprinter runs water under 25 psi pressures. A check of the boiling point vs pressure for water will show the boiling point to be upwards of 240* plus with out resorting to an anti freeze mix.
There's no problem with an engine running coolant temps as high as 220 in a closed sytem if the system pressure is high enough.
On an alky burning engine, this temp is ofter preferred as long as it is known that it can be maintained throughout the race without a problem.
Lastly the pressure cap must be high enough to hold the operating system pressure without purging to the holding tank. If that happens the system capacity runs short of coolant, then overheating slowly begins.

 

Who cares what mixture you're running, I'm gonna sit back and drink a beer while you crack that degas bottle cap open on an overheating engine.

And nice write up; for what little it's worth, the drain on the radiator is a 19mm (or 3/4", either will work) hex in case someone runs into one that's a little tighter than normal or wants to use a wrench on it.

 

Thanks for the pictures, I'm considering whether I should do this or leave it to FORD... so if anything goes wrong I can point the finger....

I think this should be a sticky!!!!