Articles & How-To's *NOW WITH VIDEO SECTION!*
Old 04-13-2015, 02:28 PM
How-Tos on this Topic
Last edit by: IB Advertising
Replacing you rear axle seals and bearings

This helpful guide with ease the process of this difficult task with pictures, detailed intrusions, and tools needed to complete the task.

Read full discussion for further information
Print Wikipost

How to replace rear axle seals and bearings in your 04+ F150 (lots of pics)

  #106  
Old 10-08-2012, 07:45 AM
zrdc28's Avatar
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: alabama
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
If you will put the bearings in the freezer for a couple of hours it will make them go in and much easier to install.
 
  #107  
Old 10-22-2012, 11:37 PM
jmontgomery's Avatar
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
2001 F-150 rear axle seals and bearings

Quintin,
I have a rear seal that is ruptured on my 2001 F-150, 2WD, 4.2L V6 with limited slip. I was hoping that these instructions are similar, if not identical to the 2004+ that you wrote about here. Can you confirm? I want to know first if I have the 8.8 or the 9.75 axle? Any idea? I just ordered a replacement differential Gasget and the guy thought that I should have the 8.8.

Secondly I wanted to know if my bearings replacement would be similar to what you have shown here? A guy at Goodyear seemed to think that the bearings were actually pressed into the axle and may need to be sent out to a machine shop for removal/installation. It would be cool if mine were just like this article.

Lastly I am having a loud hum in the rear end at speeds of 35 MPH and higher. Any clue what that is? I was thinking that it was the bearings but not sure. If I am going to be doing this repair on the right side, does it make sense to replace the wheel seal, bearings, brake pad and emergency drums on both sides or just the affected side?
Thanks!
 
  #108  
Old 12-16-2012, 12:39 PM
crackfinderndi's Avatar
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Quinton, I stumbled across this post today and it is exactly what I am going to need for my project in two weeks. Great post and the pictures really help a lot. Thanks, keep them coming.
 
  #109  
Old 10-29-2013, 04:33 PM
rcs_80's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I think I missed a step. How do I remove the hub to get to the seal?
Name:  1383078690_zps8d2d7d57.jpg
Views: 1011
Size:  85.9 KB
 
  #110  
Old 10-29-2013, 04:59 PM
atikovi's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Suburban Washington DC
Posts: 89
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Hub is welded to the axle shaft. Got to remove the axle shafts.
 
  #111  
Old 10-29-2013, 05:05 PM
rcs_80's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Okay, so I need to remove the rear axle cover to do so? Sorry I'm a rook at this.
 
  #112  
Old 10-29-2013, 05:59 PM
atikovi's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Suburban Washington DC
Posts: 89
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Yea, you have to remove the c-clips to get the axles out. Plenty of online videos on that.
 
  #113  
Old 04-01-2014, 11:02 PM
VTX1800N1's Avatar
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 256
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Driver side seal was leaking. Replaced both today and filled with fresh 75W140 synthetic. I also added a little moly paste to the bearings and ring and pinion surfaces (it's OK because I have an open differential). These axles are idiot proof simple to work on. I used this guide for the torque values, thanks!
 
  #114  
Old 04-04-2014, 04:45 PM
dittothat's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Boston
Posts: 82
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
VTX, did you add any friction modifier to the 75w140? My seals are leaking but i'm a little hesitant to crack the pumpkin. I've read stories on here of people having nightmares because the rearend can be temperamental with which fluid you use. Let me know how it goes.
 
  #115  
Old 04-04-2014, 05:14 PM
VTX1800N1's Avatar
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 256
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
No, because I have an open differential, so there would be no point. That's also why I was able to add moly to the mix. Moly doesn't play well with any type of clutch material (such as the limited slip clutch packs). However, it is extremely well suited to extremely high pressure metal interfaces, such as are found in wheel bearings and differentials.

It's likely mostly a placebo effect, but it feels like the truck rolls so much easier now after lubing the bearings and differential with moly. Some day I'd like to put a Detroit Locker in there. They are much better than the stock limited slip, but I don't have money for that right now. If I do that, I'll have to get the moly out because the locker needs a certain amount of friction to operate correctly.

I used the Walmart brand full synthetic 75W140 gear oil. The old oil came out looking very clean, although the gears and differential were stained black. I had put a little moly in the old oil, so that was likely the cause. The hardest part was getting the old axle seals out.
 

Last edited by VTX1800N1; 04-04-2014 at 05:24 PM.
  #116  
Old 05-26-2014, 03:10 PM
texasmug's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Texas
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Great write-up, Quintin! Replaced my seals, bearings, and one axle shaft this weekend by following your guide. Thanks a lot!
 
  #117  
Old 06-04-2014, 01:20 PM
cj_photo's Avatar
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
This write-up is fantastic. Just one quick question from a newb/rookie: Are there any complications to this process for a limited slip differential? Any issues with pulling the axles and doing any harm to the clutches?

thanks again and ahead of time!
 
  #118  
Old 08-06-2014, 10:18 AM
greentitan05's Avatar
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: South Carolina
Posts: 420
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Sorry to bring this back up but I read through the whole thread and didn't find my answer. I have an 05 Lariat 2wd that has a rear axle leak on the driver's side and I found this thread. My question is why do you have to remove the axle shafts? I just need to replace the seals and I've already done the rotors a couple months ago. I can't remember correctly but if I just remove the rear drum would I have access to the leaking seal then? Also, lately after start up after its been sitting a while when I brake there is a squeaking noise, could it just be the leaking oil that causes this?

Edit: I figured it out, I strike my dumb question from the thread
 

Last edited by greentitan05; 08-06-2014 at 10:41 AM.
  #119  
Old 02-25-2016, 01:51 AM
iziaha's Avatar
Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2016
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
One of the best write up - How-too's I have ever used.
Thank you Quintin!!!
 
  #120  
Old 04-26-2016, 12:44 PM
JopC's Avatar
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I rotated right rear axle a little to remove brake rotor, left axle is out pinion shaft temporarily in place, did i possibly screw anything up in there. Great tutorial by the way. My first post in forum, Thanks in advance for any info on this.
 

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Quick Reply: How to replace rear axle seals and bearings in your 04+ F150 (lots of pics)



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 01:02 AM.