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  #76  
Old 03-21-2009, 04:45 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 2
This is a GREAT post. My right seal was leaking and I've saved ourselves $500 by doing it on my own. I'm no mechanic, but by following the instructions and pictures, was able to finish it in about 5 hours.
Thanks again!!!!!
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  #77  
Old 03-23-2009, 07:27 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Central NC
Vehicle: 2007 Ford F150
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Very nice how to post. :thumbsup:
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  #78  
Old 06-23-2009, 06:07 PM
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Quintin, I'll be replacing my axle seals really soon. I just noticed the tell tale axle seal leak, looks just like the picture you posted. Same side also. I'll be doing mine in the driveway, with hand tools.

Thanks again for this excellent write-up. :beers:
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  #79  
Old 06-24-2009, 01:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Ilovemyford View Post
How many miles before someone has to replace the seals and the bearings?
One of mine was leaking at 122K, the other side was fine but I replaced both.
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  #80  
Old 09-02-2009, 12:36 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2009
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Awesome post, I'm only sorry that I just found it now. I just bought an '02 screw 4.6l 2wd. After having the rear right seal replaced along with e-brake shoes coated with oil, I now have a vibration that starts around 25 mph but is very pronounced at 45-60mph, and also a "whoop whoop" sound in the rear. That sound doesn't change with braking or putting it in neutral, it just gets faster and slower with the speed of the truck (can't really hear it above 50 mph or so).

Is there anything they could have done wrong in this process to cause these symptoms? Coincidentally, they also replaced the pinion seal. They didn't say anything about that leak until I took the truck and noticed the leak. Maybe it was caused by the repair?

Thanks

Last edited by tkdrumr; 09-02-2009 at 12:38 PM.
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  #81  
Old 10-16-2009, 05:38 AM
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I wish I would have searched for this last week and done over the 3 day weekend but it looks easy enough to do on just a saturday with your pictures ovcourse.

I don't have noise so I will only do the seals. I was going to do just one but since they are $7/ea and i'll be half way there I guess it doesn't make sense not to.

I do have a compressor but i'd be blocking the alley, so i'd rather do it in a parking space with alot more room with hand tools. Is the compressor just a time saver or are their clearance issues with a breaker bar and some of the bolts?

Oh, why did you add the friction modifier in a seperate place? Is there any reason not to put it in the fill hole with the oil?

Thanks for the writeup, btw :rocker:
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  #82  
Old 01-29-2010, 05:35 AM
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Location: Sunny Florida
Vehicle: 2001 Ford F150
Posts: 47
great write up. I have a 2001 screw 4.6 2wd with 179000. I just noticed a puddle around one of my tires so I came here and found this article. Got everything apart and then got stuck. I have an 8.8 and my spyder gears have a funky "S" (spring?) holding all 4 gears in place. How do I remove this? Are the "C" clips behind this S spring? If any one has picts or suggestions I would appreciate it. Thanks.
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  #83  
Old 02-06-2010, 01:35 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 7
Thank you Quinton. Great write up. I am waiting on new gear lube now to seep past axle so that I can get that last 1 1/4 quarts in. Truck is tilted to one side. 1998 F150 4 X 2. 8.8 3:55 rearend .
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  #84  
Old 03-24-2010, 01:05 AM
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Location: Toronto, Canada
Vehicle: 2004 Ford F150
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when doing a LS diff is there any risk to screwing up the clutches? if i put the pinion shaft bolt back in right away to keep anything from turning am i going to be ok?
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  #85  
Old 06-16-2010, 11:45 PM
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Posts: 1
Spider Gears

And what if I didnt put the pin back in and my spider gears fell out while I was working on it? Any help would be great!
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  #86  
Old 07-15-2010, 09:24 PM
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Location: az
Vehicle: 2001 ford f150
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im guessing its all the same idea for your front 4x4 8.8 correct? 97-03
drivers side seal leaks
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  #87  
Old 11-22-2010, 01:31 AM
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Location: Long Beach, CA
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Please for the love of God please don't delete this thread. I'm gonna need it big time!!!!!!


Is this very similar to a 2001 f150 4x4?

I have a bad axle seal as well

Last edited by |SoCal|Screw; 11-22-2010 at 01:41 AM.
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  #88  
Old 12-19-2010, 01:44 PM
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Vehicle: 2006 FORD FX4
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GREETING TRUCK MANIAC.....:beers:

FRIEND´S.....
REVIEW AS FLUID LEVEL REAR AXLE MY 2006 F150??
THANKS IN ADVANCE:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:
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  #89  
Old 12-27-2010, 06:30 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 6
Save a Buck or Two:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Quintin View Post
Oh yeah, while you've got the axle(s) out, inspect the portion of the shaft where the bearing rides for any pitting or damage. If any is found, the axle must be replaced.
Well, not really. If the axle bearing race is cratered and rough a set of repair bearings can be installed. They are bearing/seal integrated assemblies that move the roller contact on the axle outboard the width of the roller to an area that has no wear.

Repair bearings are: SKF R1559 for the 8.8" differential.
SKF R1561F for the 9.75" differential.

The repair bearings run 35-65 bucks each depending on the application which is much cheaper than the cost of new axles. :thumbsup:
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  #90  
Old 03-01-2011, 12:05 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Ohio
Vehicle: 2004 Ford F-150 XL
Posts: 1
Great thread--same situation

The article was EXACTLY what I needed to help save me alot of time and aggrivation. I joined this site because of this post. I had planned on doing brakes and seen the RR leak after closer inspection. Going to do both seals this week and will decide on bearings after inspection. My truck is a 2004 F-150 XL 4.6L 4WD 4WABS with tow package and 6000+ springs. Only has 55,000 miles but I do pull a heavy boat around in the spring. Thanks a million for taking the time to document the job.
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Old 03-01-2011, 12:05 AM


 
 
 
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