I have broken 5 transmissions during the 10 years that I have had this truck. This latest one is a 1999 model and it is 3 years old. It was installed in April of 2004, about a month before I added the blower. I cannot explain why this one has lasted so long. It is subject to much more torque than the others. I have broken or worn out 3 clutches since I installed this one. The latest clutch has a Kevlar facing and I installed it during the summer. I have towed well in excess of the rating with this transmission and it seems to be OK. Every time I change the clutch I check the run out of the input shaft. If you can move it like a joystick then it needs to be shimmed. The procedure is explained in the Ford shop manual.

 

Thank you very much for your reply. I have ordered a 5.4 engine from a local wrecker, i believe it is out of a 1999 but will find out for sure when i go to pick it up, as well as the mileage on the donor truck. $800 bench tested with 30 days warranty, and im about to enter my 6 days off work so hopefully i can get the majority of the work done then. I do have another question, is there anything that i should be changing before i drop it in, such as notorious seals, etc? I may as well do any work on it now while it sits on the engine stand, before i drop it in. Thanks again!

 

Just look the engine over for leaks but odds are there are none. These engines stay dry around the seals so you should be good to go. Use a jack under the tranny to hold it in place. Ratchet straps across the frame rails works too. Old trick to line tranny up with engine is to use studs or threaded rod in two of the bolt holes on the engine. They will act as a guide and it should slip right into place. You should have two alignment dowels either in the bell housing or on the engine. Make sure you have them. Obviously if you have them on both the replacement engine and tranny remove one set. I would replace the slave while it is all apart.

 

JMC,
My truck is a '98 4x4 SC auto.
I read through all your notes but have a couple questions that I don't think were addressed:
1 - If I use my 4R70W, can I simply use a converter from a 4R100? Aside from the bolting up issues (my 4.6 is a Romeo), what other parts (if any) do I need to make the trans work?
2- Since the 5.4 manifolds won't line-up to the 4.6 downpipes, what do you suggest for this issue, 5.4 down pipe?
3- Since the 4.6 uses a distributor and wires, does the 4.6 distributor still work in the 5.4? I'm not familiar with the 5.4 COP set-up.
4- If I use a 5.4 and a 4R100, will my FOU1 CPU work with both the engine and trans? My '98 has no PATS.
5- Didn't the '99 engines have a lot of piston slap issues and bad mileage? I know the gears were lower in 99, but did anything in the engine contribute to the bad mileage? How can one avoid getting a "slapper?"

 

1- If you have a 4R100 behind your 4.6 and you are swapping it for a 5.4 by all means use a 4R100 converter. If you are keeping your 4R70W follow the notes. The 4R100 converter, if it fits onto the 4R70W, multiplies torque at a 2.2:1 ratio. See notes on 4.6 converter ratio.
2- I suggest going to a muffler shop and have them address the issue. They should be equipped with the tools to bend pipe. see notes.
3- The 4.6 uses coil packs. See notes.
4- I do not know and do not plan on ever looking up the pinouts of the PCM to find out. If your PCM was designed to run a 4R70W it will not be able to run a 4R100. If you search the forums there are a few who swapped in a 4R100 for their 4R70W. My notes are for an engine swap.
5- A few engines out of the countless millions had the slap. If you swap to a more powerful engine, read more torque, your mileage per gallon should improve.

 

I have a 1997 f250LD with a 4.6 with a bad piston and e40d trans. I want to transplant a 2001 5.4 out of a damaged f150. Would the best way to do this be to keep the 1997 4.6 computer and transmission and run normal plug wires as opposed to the COPs? Do I need to swap out the injectors? Physically it looks like it should be a straightforward bolt in. What about the PATS? Any advice would be great. I haven't gone as far as an engine swap before.

 

In a nut shell. Put the 5.4 in the hole that was created when the 4.6 was removed and wire it up like it was a 4.6. You can use the 5.4 or the 4.6 injectors they should be the same. If you wire it up like a 4.6 you need not worry about the PATS. Your truck doesn't have it. Even if it did by using your 4.6 PCM the PATS would be taken care of. Be sure to get a tune for the PCM to accommodate the extra cc that the 5.4 displaces. Good luck with your swap.

 

Update:
4.6 is out and stripped, just waiting on an overnighted exhaust manifold and i'm ready to drop in the 5.4. I got lucky and had the 8 bolt flywheel on my 4.6, and was able to easily remove the pilot bearing, both are now installed on the 5.4. I do have a couple more questions if that's alright, mainly about the wiring aspect of the swap.

-ECT sender/sensor: I'm assuming where i tap the intake to install these, its in almost the same location as they were on the 4.6 manifold? I just want to be sure before i pop those holes in, I'd hate to have them in the wrong spot!

-Knock sensor: The engine that i got was out of a 99, but has a manufacture date of 2000, so likely was a replacement from a 2001. Both knock sensors are 2 wire, with completely different plugs, the 4.6 are black and white, the 5.4 are yellow and black. When you are talking about the different pinouts, are you saying that i will have to run fresh wires from the sensor to the pcm? Is it possible to splice the hookups and run it with the original 2? Also, i have a sensor on top of my intake manifold (5.4) that looks very much like a knock sensor, that seems to have nowhere to go. Any ideas on this? it also has 2 wires, which are red and black.

Hopefully i can get this puppy to the point of being started by thursday night, after that im back on a 4 day tour, then hopefully afterwards i can get all the accessories and everything buttoned up. Thanks for all your help, this is quite a well put together guide that you've written.

 

The ECT sensor can go in the crossover just like the 4.6. Some of the 99 crossovers had the boss but it was not drilled. The knock sensor does not need new wires. If you can splice the wires or use the plug from the 5.4 engine and splice it into the circuit. My truck has 2 knock sensors. One in the valley bolted to the block and one bolted onto the intake manifold. The one in the valley is not plugged in. At one time one of my manual transmissions had a knock that was picked up by the sensor so I added one to the manifold that would not pick up the knock. I never got around to plugging the one in the valley back in. Without a picture I cannot be sure what the sensor other is.

 

gfp has a 1999 f150, 4.6 and a bent up 2001 lightning. my plan is to change the motor,trans., and ecm. do i need to change wire harness,drive shaft and diff. also?

 

Update:
Engine is in, everything is hooked back up minus the accessories, belt, and cooling system. I think i've got all the vacuums buttoned up after a little confusion, with just one problem. The engine starts and fires, but dies right after. Spark keeps going so i know that isnt the problem, if i pour a little gas down the TB, engine will stay running, obviously revved, but still dies. i was able to keep the engine running for about 10 seconds after gas was poured, feathering throttle near WOT. Tested TPS, reads a little high but not enough to worry me, voltage went up and down accordingly, so i dont think that is the issue. I dont have a fuel pressure guage, but pushed in the test valve on the rail and it seems to have plenty of pressure. Im leaning towards something shutting down the injectors, but im not sure what would cause that. Are the injectors for the 5.4 and 4.6 the same size? i used the injectors that came with the 5.4. Tomorrow i will probably make my way into town and pick up a fuel pressure guage, and then might just finish up the accessories and everything, then try again and see if having them plugged in helps. Thanks for all your help so far, any input on my stalling problem?

 

Look for a vacuum leak. Also check the inlet piping from the Throttle body all the way to the MAF sensor. There are 2 lines just in front of the the throttle body. One goes to the IAC and the other to the driver side cam cover (valve cover). Make sure the IAC is plugged in and the wires are not shorted or disconnected. A dead IAC will not allow the engine to idle. Check all the connections to the sensors and go over all the vacuum hoses.

 

Got it running today, took a bit to get it to idle but once it did it seemed to smooth out with it. I imagine once i have exhaust hooked up it may help as well, and wont be so unholy loud! i pulled off the IAC to inspect it closer, it looks like it may have been damaged at some point, likely when the wrecker pulled or was moving it, and i just didnt notice. I swapped over the IAC off of the 4.6, got all the accessories and belt on, and hooked up the throttle cable, that seemed to do it. I also had to extend the plugs for the AC, and the crank sensor once the compressor was on, they almost reached but not quite.
I'm not fully confident in how i have my vacuums hooked up though, im going to list how i have them hooked up here, and make another thread as well, hopefully somebody can confirm or deny if i have them done right, i cant seem to find a decent vacuum diagram anywhere!

4 vacuum lines running from the passenger side of engine bay:
Large line--top of throttle body
Green line--EGR canister
White line--Black canister on firewall
Red line--Fuel rail

2 exits on rear of throttle body:
Bottom inlet--Brake booster
Top inlet--Green inlet on black canister on firewall

Drivers side valve cover--air intake piping

Large inlet on rear of throttle body--black box on air intake piping?(I havent hooked this up yet, i dont have the piping installed yet so i just have this one plugged off)

Passenger side valve cover--2 lines, both running to inlets on passenger side of throttle body.

Please if anybody has any input, am i on the right track, or totally off the wall?

 

Idle problem solved

 

i curently have the 99 5.4L and i am going to the 98 4.6L and i need to know what all i have to swap with the motors both motors are out of an f-150 pick up with everything thare i will have both trucks accessable during the swap
please let me know what all i need to swap and thank you