Hey guys, in my closet right now are two 10" kicker comp subs that are just waiting to be installed. I am contemplating about doing the install my self or jst taking it to a shop to get installed. I need an amp, a box, and the wires before I can install the system. I have a box picked out but I have questions before I decide if this install is beyond my mechanical know how or not. I know how to match up amps and subs for there RMS by searching hours on end and I believe I have a general knowledge of how to hook them up to after the hours of watching videos and what not. Now for the questions. Im sure there will be more in the future. Any help is appreciated, im a 16 year old guy that loves working on cars and now wants to learn more about audio systems. I really want to do it myself but if its too much of a hassle for me then I will just take it to audio express or something. Ive searched numerous hours and these have not been answered yet

1. I keep on reading about a fuse near the batter for the power wire. Does this come in amp wiring kits and how would one be hooked up?

2. Is it required to remove the dash to get access to the grommet in the firewall?(BIG PROBLEM if so)

3. Do you have to get an amp kit specific to your amp?

4. Can the amp be mounted to the down fire box because I dont want to remove the jack and put an amp there.

5. what tools are need for the install?

 

do it yourself. It isn' hard but will take a little time. Plan it out in advance and don't just wing it. Old saying measure twice and cut once.

Answers to your question.
1. Sometimes an inline fuse is included sometimes it isn't. You will need one. It goes on the main power cable between your battery and amp/distribution block. It needs to be within 18 inches of the battery. The inline fuse is there in case the main power cable shorts out and catches fire.

2. No on removing the dash. Depending on where your grommet is you may not even need a fish wire. I can't remember what years but some have a grommet right where the brake pedal is on the firewall.

3. No. Amp kits are just power/ground cable, maybe a distribution block, inline fuse, and other little bits and pieces. Good name to look at for basic wiring kits is Kicker.

4. Amp can be mounted anywhere but I would recommmend not to mount upside down. The vibration from the sub box should not effect the amp.

5. Tools. 6 lb sledge hammer, cutting torch, mig welder, pnumatic chisel...just kidding..
You will need just basic hand tools: screwdrivers, utility knife, wire crimpers, small hammer, allen wrenches, socket set, fish wire (coat hanger), electric drill, just the normal everyday stuff.

 

thanks for your quick reply. You answered All of my questions but when I asked about mounting the amp on the box, I meant is it possible to mount it to the box so the amp is facing the center console.

 

It really depends on how big your amp is compared to the side of your box. But if you have people in your back seat, I wouldnt do it. Its too easy to get stepped on/kicked.

Langlowe....what the heck are you using a hammer for in an amp install?

 

LOL. Hey it was late last night when I typed that up. I was think about the tools I used and I ended up having to use a hammer for the 4ga ring connectors. I used a hammer and screwdriver to dent it in and then vise grips to squeeze it tight.

I swear I didn't use a hammer for anything else than that.

 

im getting this. http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...PKD1-PKD1.html for now i will only need 1 side. till i get my new deck. but this is a GREAT cable kit. 0 gauge is all the power you need. and for "crimping" the terminals. i wouldnt do it. not a good connection. solder it all on if you can. and your 00 will have a big round grommet by the break pedal. thats where all my wires come threw. i wouldnt mount an amp on a box. it the vibrations will mess with it and make something break. my crunch amp did that and the leds wouldnt light up. as soon as i moved it to the floor 3 days later the leds turned back on.

 

this thing?

 

A properly crimped connection is just as solid a connection as solder.

For instance, a hammer and screw driver is not the proper way to crimp a connection. (no offense langlowe)

 

Yeah I know the hammer screwdriver crimp is not the way to do it. I am ashamed that is what I had to resort to but at the time it was all I had available. On my behalf I did search on diyma for the red neck method. At least I didn't just pound the thing flat with a sledgehammer.

When I do the big 4, I am going to take everything to a battery shop that is near me and have them do it the right way.

 

I cant find where to route the power wire on either side. On the passenger side, I see the grommet behing the battery but when I look under the glove box with a flash light, I cant see where it comes out at. On the driver side, I just cant see a single grommet except for that big round plastic thing that I took a pic of

 

What you took a picture sure looks like a firewall grommet to me. You could always pull it out and then probe with a coat hanger or fish wire.

 

Would it be alright to drill a hole through it to route the power wire through there, and then use silicone or something to seal it up?

 

there should be a big one on the driver side. i could be wrong though. but crimping would be good too, but then you risking the terminal falling off. i've had it happen. haha got lazy then never soldered it on. so i then soldered it on.

 

yes that pic was taken from the driver side.

 

Floor board, passenger front. There is a big grommet under there. Thats what i used.