under hound grounding???
#1
#2
Grounding mod?? I assume you might be talking about the 'Big 3' which actually does include improving two grounds.
The first one is from the battery negative to the chassis. The second is the alternator ground. Since the alternator is grounded through its casing, to the alt. mounting, and to the engine, you can actually use about any bolt on the engine, or use a bolt on the alt. mounting brackets. From there ground it to the chassis.
The third part of the big three is to upgrade the wire from the positive terminal on the battery to the alternators positive terminal. You want to fuse this wire too (use a fuse that is the max of what that wire can handle amperage wise...for 1/0 wire that would be about a 300 amp fuse).
You could also upgrade the grounds from your cab to the frame if you wanted. Ideally, I would drill a hole through the floor and run a single bolt though it, with your amp grounded to it on the inside, and a wire running from the bottom side of that bolt to your frame.
The first one is from the battery negative to the chassis. The second is the alternator ground. Since the alternator is grounded through its casing, to the alt. mounting, and to the engine, you can actually use about any bolt on the engine, or use a bolt on the alt. mounting brackets. From there ground it to the chassis.
The third part of the big three is to upgrade the wire from the positive terminal on the battery to the alternators positive terminal. You want to fuse this wire too (use a fuse that is the max of what that wire can handle amperage wise...for 1/0 wire that would be about a 300 amp fuse).
You could also upgrade the grounds from your cab to the frame if you wanted. Ideally, I would drill a hole through the floor and run a single bolt though it, with your amp grounded to it on the inside, and a wire running from the bottom side of that bolt to your frame.
#3
Originally Posted by Bartak1
Grounding mod?? I assume you might be talking about the 'Big 3' which actually does include improving two grounds.
The first one is from the battery negative to the chassis. The second is the alternator ground. Since the alternator is grounded through its casing, to the alt. mounting, and to the engine, you can actually use about any bolt on the engine, or use a bolt on the alt. mounting brackets. From there ground it to the chassis.
The third part of the big three is to upgrade the wire from the positive terminal on the battery to the alternators positive terminal. You want to fuse this wire too (use a fuse that is the max of what that wire can handle amperage wise...for 1/0 wire that would be about a 300 amp fuse).
You could also upgrade the grounds from your cab to the frame if you wanted. Ideally, I would drill a hole through the floor and run a single bolt though it, with your amp grounded to it on the inside, and a wire running from the bottom side of that bolt to your frame.
The first one is from the battery negative to the chassis. The second is the alternator ground. Since the alternator is grounded through its casing, to the alt. mounting, and to the engine, you can actually use about any bolt on the engine, or use a bolt on the alt. mounting brackets. From there ground it to the chassis.
The third part of the big three is to upgrade the wire from the positive terminal on the battery to the alternators positive terminal. You want to fuse this wire too (use a fuse that is the max of what that wire can handle amperage wise...for 1/0 wire that would be about a 300 amp fuse).
You could also upgrade the grounds from your cab to the frame if you wanted. Ideally, I would drill a hole through the floor and run a single bolt though it, with your amp grounded to it on the inside, and a wire running from the bottom side of that bolt to your frame.
#4
Fused Alt/Batt lead?
Originally Posted by Bartak1
Grounding mod?? I assume you might be talking about the 'Big 3' which actually does include improving two grounds.
The first one is from the battery negative to the chassis. The second is the alternator ground. Since the alternator is grounded through its casing, to the alt. mounting, and to the engine, you can actually use about any bolt on the engine, or use a bolt on the alt. mounting brackets. From there ground it to the chassis.
The third part of the big three is to upgrade the wire from the positive terminal on the battery to the alternators positive terminal. You want to fuse this wire too (use a fuse that is the max of what that wire can handle amperage wise...for 1/0 wire that would be about a 300 amp fuse).
You could also upgrade the grounds from your cab to the frame if you wanted. Ideally, I would drill a hole through the floor and run a single bolt though it, with your amp grounded to it on the inside, and a wire running from the bottom side of that bolt to your frame.
The first one is from the battery negative to the chassis. The second is the alternator ground. Since the alternator is grounded through its casing, to the alt. mounting, and to the engine, you can actually use about any bolt on the engine, or use a bolt on the alt. mounting brackets. From there ground it to the chassis.
The third part of the big three is to upgrade the wire from the positive terminal on the battery to the alternators positive terminal. You want to fuse this wire too (use a fuse that is the max of what that wire can handle amperage wise...for 1/0 wire that would be about a 300 amp fuse).
You could also upgrade the grounds from your cab to the frame if you wanted. Ideally, I would drill a hole through the floor and run a single bolt though it, with your amp grounded to it on the inside, and a wire running from the bottom side of that bolt to your frame.
#5
Originally Posted by 1-bigmac
Hey Bartak, I just read the detail in your message. I did the big 3 (or 4) upgrade, but didn't think about the need for a fuse (300 amp) in the 1/0G line from the alternator to the +Batt terminal. Is this critical? Seems like there are fuses on all the various circuits in the truck including the new amps etc. Is it to proctect the alternator some how? Curious, and now a little worried. Thanks...
and to quote the master
Originally Posted by Bartak1
If that wire would ever ground you would have a solid connection from your batterys pos. to a ground. With a fuse, it will pop before you can do any damage to your battery or start a fire.
Last edited by jmt0645; 10-11-2007 at 01:35 PM.
#6
Originally Posted by jmt0645
its to protect the WHOLE electrical system in the RARE event the alternator malfunctions and there is a surge in the system.
#7
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#8
Originally Posted by Bartak1
If that wire would ever ground you would have a solid connection from your batterys pos. to a ground. With a fuse, it will pop before you can do any damage to your battery or start a fire.
#9
#10
Originally Posted by jmt0645
yes it does, there are 2 fusible links in a hard plastic case inline with the factory positive wire,
#11
Originally Posted by 1-bigmac
Thanks agin for the answer jmt0645. I guess you can see them if you unwrap some of the cable housing?
At any rate, my in-line fuse for the 1/0G should be here for the weekend! Again thanks for the info.
i can actually remember when i too was a "newb" to audio stuff, but with the help of bartak1/ Dconder and a few others i now consider myself "experienced" but no "expert" by any means... that title i'll leave to Bartak, Dconder, and f150Truckin. MAD PROPS to those guys .