New Bee Amp Wiring question
#1
#3
Your the man Impact9. Thanks......again.
Well I guess what I am asking is on the back of the factory head unit, Are their pre amp outputs or will I need to cut one end off the RCA cables that come with the wiring kit and splice into the left/right speaker wires?
Well I guess what I am asking is on the back of the factory head unit, Are their pre amp outputs or will I need to cut one end off the RCA cables that come with the wiring kit and splice into the left/right speaker wires?
Last edited by BigBlack27; 05-01-2007 at 04:22 PM.
#4
The factory HU does not have pre-outs. If your amp will accept speaker-level inputs, then that's the ticket. If not, buy a line-level converter and make it happen. Don't splice the RCA's with anything. You won't even be using them. Just run unshielded speaker cable all the way back to your amp from the HU, or tag on at the door speakers. If you do end up making a home run to the HU, run down the opposite side of the cab from your power wire, if possible.
#5
So.... I could just disconnect the rear speakers and run those wires to the speaker level input on the amp. From what I have been reading it seems like I realy only want to use the front speakers anyways, correct? That way I would only have to tap into the "turn-on-wire" behind the stock head unit.
Would any of you guys have a diagram and or pictures of the back of the stock head unit? im just a litle worried about finding the right wire. I know its usually blue, but it was my understanding that Ford doesnt keep this standard across all vehicles. Also do you have any tips on finding the rear speaker wires?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Would any of you guys have a diagram and or pictures of the back of the stock head unit? im just a litle worried about finding the right wire. I know its usually blue, but it was my understanding that Ford doesnt keep this standard across all vehicles. Also do you have any tips on finding the rear speaker wires?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
#6
It would make sense to use the factory HU to power the rear speakers and use the front speaker wires to feed the speaker-level inputs of your amp. Then run new cable back up the the front speakers, from your amp.
A picture of the rear of the HU won't do you much good. There's not much to see. Just do a search to find the color of the remote wire in the factory harness. There have been lots of threads about this.
A picture of the rear of the HU won't do you much good. There's not much to see. Just do a search to find the color of the remote wire in the factory harness. There have been lots of threads about this.
#7
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#9
Sorry for the confusion...That is what I am trying to install. I have had several options on where I should tap into the factory system in order to power my amp for the sub. I am just trying to figure out what would be the easiest for a first timer like myself.
1) Tap into the 12v turn on and rear speaker wires behind the head unit and run to the speaker level input on my amp.
2) Tap into the 12v turn on behind the head unit and use the rear speaker wires to run to my speaker level input
3)Tap into the 12v turn on behind the head unit and use a pre amp adapter to utilize the rca cables.
4) spend anothe 400 on a head a new head unit (which will eventually be done, but im trying to stay away from now) and use the pre amp outputs on the back of that.
5) get it done at Best Buy for an extra 130 bones (which I would rather avoid)
1) Tap into the 12v turn on and rear speaker wires behind the head unit and run to the speaker level input on my amp.
2) Tap into the 12v turn on behind the head unit and use the rear speaker wires to run to my speaker level input
3)Tap into the 12v turn on behind the head unit and use a pre amp adapter to utilize the rca cables.
4) spend anothe 400 on a head a new head unit (which will eventually be done, but im trying to stay away from now) and use the pre amp outputs on the back of that.
5) get it done at Best Buy for an extra 130 bones (which I would rather avoid)
#10
1) Will work
2) Is easier
3) Will also work, but why buy the converter if you're getting a new HU?
4) Obviously the way to go, and you don't have to spend $400.
5) Money well-spent IF they know what they're doing and you're not comfortable doing it yourself. You haven't mentioned power and grounding yet, which are way more important issues than anything else.
2) Is easier
3) Will also work, but why buy the converter if you're getting a new HU?
4) Obviously the way to go, and you don't have to spend $400.
5) Money well-spent IF they know what they're doing and you're not comfortable doing it yourself. You haven't mentioned power and grounding yet, which are way more important issues than anything else.
#11
Well running the power to the battery and grounding the amp seem pretty simple and straight forward. Am I wrong about this?
I know to ryn the power wire from the battery through the firewall to the amp on the opposite side of the car from the signal wires. and to ground the amp to a unpainted portion of the car as close as possible to the amp. Is there anything else I should know?
I know to ryn the power wire from the battery through the firewall to the amp on the opposite side of the car from the signal wires. and to ground the amp to a unpainted portion of the car as close as possible to the amp. Is there anything else I should know?
#12