I just fininshed replacing the clutch master and bled the slave cylinder according to the Haynes manual. Worked great right after I bled it but I don't think I got all the air out. After it sat overnight, the clutch isn't working right. It acts like its not getting enough pressure to disengage the clutch. I've checked the plastic bushing on the master cylinder push rod, and there is no slop. Has anyone bled this system using this "gravity" method before? If so how long and how many master cylinder fulls of fuid did you let flow through the system? Is there a better way? Thanks in advance for any help.

[This message has been edited by cowboykent (edited 02-14-2001).]

 

Hey, I just logged on here to post the same message. I have searched the message board, checked the repair manual and attempted the gravity bleed, but I feel more is needed. Can anyone offer any suggestions to me/us?

Thanks!!


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Black 2000 F-150 XLT Sport
4.6L V8 5-spd Manual
3.55 Limited slip Rear Axle
Towing Package

 

I have always used a BIG syringe filled with fluid and pumped it in from the slave end. put a little heavy grease on the bleed nipple threads and rest the lid on the master to stop fluid flying. Always used this method on brake systems too.

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97, 4.6, 3.55LS, Dk red 265/75/16, Leer cap, Rhino bed, rose wood dash kit, CD player, High performance cross drilled rotors

 

Good call I've thought about doing that. Now that you've confirmed, I'll give it a shot.

Next question, do you know of a good/better aftermarket tranny/clutch for our F-150's? I'm gonna try to replace mine as soon as I can.

Thanks!

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Black 2000 F-150 XLT Sport
4.6L V8 5-spd Manual
3.55 Limited slip Rear Axle
Towing Package

 

I just finished bleeding mine for the third time and I think it was done right this time. Clutch feels better than ever. I used a piece of clear tubing from the bleed screw to the clear jar with a little clean brake fluid in the bottom. Then I could see the air inside. I cracked open the bleed screw and pumped the clutch very slowly by hand and made sure the master cyliner stayed full. I ran about a half a quart through and got all of that white junk out of the system. I think it was actually clogging my system. Finally after the brake fluid looked clear, I let the gravity method take over. It worked much better this time. After I was finished, almost a full quart of brake fluid later, I tightened the bleed screw and pumped the clutch pedal about fifty times pausing for a couple of seconds between each one. Put a little pressure on the clutch and cracked open the bleed screw one more time to expell any more air in the system. The clear tubing took all the guess work out of the job. It'll take a couple of days to see if it really worked. Are you all seeing any of this white sh..tuff in your systems? I'll post back in about a week or so to let you all know how it is working.

As far as a new clutch for these trucks, I've read that Ford's are better than any after market. I read that either on this message board, or on ford-trucks.com.

[This message has been edited by cowboykent (edited 02-15-2001).]

 

Where and how do you bleed the clutch? I haven't looked under the hood for a long 5 or 6 months now except maybe adding some windshield fluid (Winter is brrrrr)!

I guess its like bleeding the brakes? So it uses the same fluid as the brakes? I may sound stupid but still! Which bleed nipple/screw did you use?

 

Hey Guys, I tried cowboykent's method with the tube and it works wonders I let my girlfriend "play" inside the cab while I opened the bleed valve under the truck and watched the fluid come out. There were some white flecks similar to cbk's truck.

To answer eph1fifty's question, the bleed valve is just above the tube that connects to the slave cylinder in the tranny. The valve is covered with a black rubber hat. Remove the hat, put a clear tube over the nipple and let the other end sit in a container with clean brake fluid. Have someone pump the clutch a few times and then hold it in. While it's still depressed, open the valve about a quarter turn and then close it once the fluid comes out. Pump the clutch again until it builds up resistance. Press it to the floor and open the valve. This is the method I used until I was satisfied with the amount of resistance/play in the system. So far I'm good to go. I will do it again in a couple days to make sure that I've flushed out all the old fluid.

Thanks guys for all your input and help!

Regards,
Alvin



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Black 2000 F-150 XLT Sport
4.6L V8 5-spd Manual
3.55 Limited slip Rear Axle
Towing Package

 

Thanks Alvin I'll have to try that as soon as it warms up here Ever since I bought my truck the clutch was very anoying I guess I got used to it but anyway I drew something quickly to explain it.



(a) is when its fully depressed
(b) is where it starts to engage the trans!
(c) is when the trans. is fully engaged

Now this shouldn't be normal right? I wonder if bleeding the clutch will help this? To me anyway the clutch should fully engage the tranny between (a) and (b), or even closer to (a)!

I talked to my dealer and the person I talked to didn't know what to do! He thought I had to replace my clutch? My clutch works fine only that the pedal isn't properly adjusted!

ANy thoughts? Thanks
Steve

 

i use a vaccum system to bleed the clucth cylinder works real good

 

Nice diagram!

eph1fifty, that's *exactly* how mine felt after it was worked on. It drove me nutz! The dealer "could not duplicate" the issue. Before you start to replace your master or slave cylinders, try the method we used and bleed your clutch. I'll be willing to bet you that your clutch will start to engage at point C instead of B.

 

Replace your master cylider!!!! Thats the only way to fix the problem that you guys are having. Mine was at the dealer 3 times before it was fixxed. Bleeding it only helps for a little while but your problem will return. The new master cylinder looks different from the one that was on there to begin with. Mine was replaced at 8000 miles. 25000 on it now without a problem. Good luck guys

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1999 F150 4x4 XLT BLACK ORP 4.6 5 SPEED 3.55
LUND HOOD SHEILD
K&N
FLOWMASTER SERIES 40 SINGLE OUTLET
CAPTAIN CHAIRS
PIONEER 6815's(for now)
SUPERCHIP
AIRBOX MOD
WAAG BRUSH GUARD
SPIRALMAX
KENWOOD 9015
SUPERCHIP STICKERS
MTX THUNDERFORM
KICKER 240 AMP
PIAA 9007'S
LUND RACERBACK
LUND LUNAR VISOR
NO DOOR CRACKS!!!

 

BLACKENEDFORD Glad to hear you finally got your problem fixed right.hadn't seen a follow up post from the last time we conversed. The symptoms described here are what we went through a while back.the white stuff in the fluid is assembly grease,it takes awhile to get it all out.I thought it was cloging up the line also but it ended up to be a bad master cylinder.the designs of these are bad in my opinion.the insides are a two peice plunger that can and have in my case seperated on the inside and gives 1 to 3" of play at the top of the pedal then it engages the clutch.eventually it doesn't seal very well on the inside and the pedal will bleed down to the floor and if it gets too bad the pedal will go down to the floor and you won't be able to disengage the clutch,which I went through also.these clutch master cylinders are plastic and junk in my opnion.but it took three times for me also to get this problem fixed.if anyone has any further questions feel free to ask.have had a lot of experence with this problem.btw the clutch master cylinders are easy to take out and put in maybe 15 min to do.

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------------------------- 99 SILVER XLT/REG.CAB/4.2/5SPD/3.55/K&N/Dynomax Super Turbo/Westin Black Nerfs/SuperChip/Hellwig Rear Swaybar/Energy Suspension Front Swaybar Bushings and Endlinks/Trenz Billet Antenna

 

BLACKENEDFORD, you're right I didn't doubt you in the first place, but I know I've told myself that the master cylinder was probably bad, but after I bled the clutch and it felt right, euphoria took over. The clutch got "soft" again and I bled it today, and guess what? . . it's soft again. So, I'm gonna be in the process of finding out where to get a new master cylinder and how much it'll cost to put it in. If you guys have more information, I'm *very* interested.

Thanks!

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Black 2000 F-150 XLT Sport
4.6L V8 5-spd Manual
3.55 Limited slip Rear Axle
Towing Package

 

I think that replacing the master cylinder and properly bleeding the system finally fixed my problem. The clutch pedal only travels slightly before it starts to engage. Master cylinder-$55, brake fluid-$5, clear bleeding tube-$2. Master cylinder that increases hydraulic pressure instead of blood pressure-priceless!!!

 

Hey Mike150...WHAAASSSSSSUP!!!
Its been so long since that post Ive forgotten all about it.

Alvinsb...Sorry to hear about your problem. If I were you, I would avoid the dealer at all costs!!! They'll no doubt jerk you around with "SOP's", and other bulls*it. The service dept. where I bought my ride was so ignorant. First they bled it. Then they replaced the line (like that would help). Then they replaced the slave cylinder. Wrong again. Finally after a month or two of jerking around, they replaced the master cylinder and the problem went away. I would have done it myself, but there is warranty issues. Save yourself time and money. Spend the $50.00 and do it yourself. Youll be thanking me later......# 3...RIP

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1999 F150 4x4 XLT BLACK ORP 4.6 5 SPEED 3.55
LUND HOOD SHEILD
K&N
FLOWMASTER SERIES 40 SINGLE OUTLET
CAPTAIN CHAIRS
PIONEER 6815's(for now)
SUPERCHIP
AIRBOX MOD
WAAG BRUSH GUARD
SPIRALMAX
KENWOOD 9015
SUPERCHIP STICKERS
MTX THUNDERFORM
KICKER 240 AMP
PIAA 9007'S
LUND RACERBACK
LUND LUNAR VISOR
NO DOOR CRACKS!!!