Well, took it into the shop (the valve body & the instructions) and after a stern talking to, a few laughs, some public humiliation and lots of ribbing we figured it out and I got everything installed correctly and working. Luckily I didn't screw up bad enough to need a new valve body. The holes went into a closed chamber. So in theory, once that chamber is full the kit should operate as designed. Next time I have it apart I'll either jam some alum. welding rod in there or replace it with a used one ($125) or just leave it as is. I didn't do the 2nd accumulator. Wish I had. That'll be a next time too. At least I know there's plenty of clean fluid in there.
Okay, here's the gag. I had done the springs and valves and reinstalled the whole thing without using ANY checkballs.#$%^ OR a under the plate gasket. Honestly, having never done it before. The instructions were a bit confusing. It said checkballs, so I looked down and said, "Yeah, I've got two." Honestly, I didn't see any checkballs when I took it apart. Anyways, problem solved, trouble thwarted again. Let's just say I won't be making those 3 mistakes over again anytime real soon.
Almost embarrased to reply and tell everyone about my bonehead move, but, luckily all turned out well in the end. "Check balls"
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97 XLT SC 3:55, 4.6L, 3.5" Fabtech coils w/arms & 2" add-a-leafs, snug lid, Tow package, 6CD, Auto, BFG 285/75/16 on stock alloys, Trans-go stage 2 (using stage 1)
FUTURE mods: 3" spindles, centerline rims with 35's, ARB air lockers @ 4:10, 4:34 or 4:56
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