My 2000 F-150 5.4l auto has 24,000 miles on it. I've changed the oil and filter every 3,000 miles using Pennzoil 5w-30 and a Motorcraft FL-820s filter. The last three mornings, since changing the oil and filter, when it starts up it clatters for 3 or 4 seconds, then quiets down. Seems like I've read a post here that some filters don't have a check valve and that causes this problem by letting the oil all run down to the pan (is that what happens?). The FL-820s (s = silicone check valve) has one.

Could this be a bad filter? Can I change filters without losing a lot of oil and making a big mess? This is a 4x4 and the filter always drains a little down on to the front diff. anyway, and IT'S a mess... I don't need a bigger mess.

Any thoughts or suggestions?

Dave

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Fishin' the Gulf of Mexico Beaches!
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* 2000 F-150SC Lariat 4x4 Flairside, 5.4L/auto, Rear Slider
* Black/gold, custom bed trim, tint, VentShades
* K&N, cat-back duals, Class III Tow, Logo Hitch
* IttyBitty 1.02" "Super Cool" (HA!) Radiator (for NOW)
* Westin step bars, factory splash guards, custom pop-up bed deck
* Magellan GPS, CD Changer, Keyless Entry touchpad
* 1 Year/24,000 Mile Average - 13.7MPG, Best 16.3MPG, Worst 11.4MPG (normal bed deck and equipment load: 400 lb.)
* RainX FastWax weekly, max. days dirty: 3
* Problems after 1 year: ZERO

 

Of all the oils to use.. your using penzoil?
For the love of god.. shoot your truck and put it out of its misery... sigh..

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97 F150 Longbed V8 4.6
K&N air filter
K&N FIPK tech MOD & removed elbow silencer
Tires: Yokohama 265/75/16 Geolander AT+
Hyper white xenon bulbs
Bedliner and raven shell
6 disc cd changer
Oil & filter used

Gasoline used

My Truck

 

I'm not sure of what your problem is but a doubt the oil caused the problem. Pennzoil has been faithful to me in my 25 yrs of driving with no engine problems ever. Plus I have alot of extra bucks in my pockets. I would try changing the filter out to see if that helps. You will probably only lose a quart of oil when you change it.

 

There's absolutely nothing wrong with Pennzoil.

 

As to Penzoil, this is my first Ford ever, but I've put 240,000 mi. on one Dodge 318ci Van and 185,000 on my second Dodge 318ci van without any problems in the oiled systems of the engines (don't ask me how many water pumps and steering gear boxes!) I've always used Penzoil 10w30 and have changed oil every 3,000 mi. I think Penzoil works.

I guess my real question is: Do you think it is the oil filter? Is there some filter that's better than the Ford factory one?

Since my only Penzoil experience is with the Dodge 318, Do I need to consider a different 5w-30 oil since this is a Ford engine?

By the way... I LOVE my Head-turnin', beach burnin' F-150!

Dave

 

What's so bad about Pennzoil? If it worked well in your Dodge you should have no problems in your Ford. Like Dixietruck said try a new filter, you might have got a bad one.

[This message has been edited by stephen muscio (edited 06-26-2001).]

 

MonsterFisherman:
We basically have the same truck. I have a black plastic tray underneath the filter that works very well. It guides the oil into a drain pan, so you shouldn't make that much mess.

Personally I'd change the filter. You'll only lose 1/2 a quart and it's the easiest thing to do first. You could have a bad filter. Obviously the oil has nothing to do with the noise or you'd have heard it a while ago. I think the Ford filter is a good one. I was using Amsoil filters but changed to the Ford one at my last oil change.

Of course, the other possibility is that a foreign object found its way into the engine during your last oil change ... but I doubt that's the cause. It would make a noise all the time. It's got to be the filter.

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'00 5.4L AUTO 4X4 F-150 Lariat
'98 4.0L 5spd Jeep Wrangler Sport
'02 F-350 PSD CC DRW 6SPD 4X4 Lariat (order this year)
www.hawthorn-engineering.com

 

znstr:
I think that Mobil 1 oil filters have the same or similar silicon anti-drainback valve. I've had a really hard time finding anyone in Hawaii that stocks Mobil 1 filters. I'm trying Mobil 1 10W-30 in my Wrangler and F-150 and so far I'm happy with the performance. Engine seems very smooth, and my idle at lights seems to be considerably smoother compared to the Amsoil Series 2000 0W-30 I was using before. Of course, this is not scientific but merely my perception. I'll probably be staying with Mobil 1 from now on.

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'00 5.4L AUTO 4X4 F-150 Lariat
'98 4.0L 5spd Jeep Wrangler Sport
'02 F-350 PSD CC DRW 6SPD 4X4 Lariat (order this year)
www.hawthorn-engineering.com

 

My 2001 5.4 L had occasionally the same symptoms on first startup of the day. I used motorcraft FL 820-S and 5w-20 oil and changed every 3k or less. I think that filter may have a quality/reliability problem. I am now going to Mobil1 oil and filter. Does anyone know that this switch will not effect the warranty on my 16+ k miles SC ?

 

PS: The main thing about the filter I question is the reliability/effectiveness of its drainback valve.................

 

Dude, try installing a cut-out switch into the idle air control (IAC) circuitry. I did it in my 92 F-150 and my 98 F-150. It is a simple push button (normally closed) switch that when depressed cuts out the high (fast) idle during cold start-ups. It is located under the dash out of sight (nice mounting hole already there) and within arms reach. My 89 crown vic and 92 F-150 did the same thing. They reved high when I started it in the morning causing alot of engine wear (pistin slap) due to lack of oil circulation. Ford is notorious with this issue. If you want more info let me know.

98 F150, 5.4, 3.55LS, 9.75, Off-Road (yeah!), Tow package, B&M shift kit, 2001 rear slider (no more leaks!), Cracked doors, Disfunctional Door Ajar light, Defective Horn, etc...

 

I'd like more info on disabling the cold start high idle. It races way to fast on a dead motor. I cringe when I start it. In Florida I should not have a problem getting it going with out that. Does it have to be on a switch or can it just be bypassed?

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