I just bought my truck (2003 F150 Supercab) couple weeks ago. The whole left side of the truck has body damage and some of the right side too. I've been reading around here and have learned a ton, but I still have a few questions about how to fix it. Thanks in advance for your help and insight...

Rear bed panel - this one shocked me how expensive it was. Looks like I have to weld it on too (I don't know how to weld). There is damage on the passenger side too, so I have decided just to buy a used bed from a wrecking yard. Found some for $750 on car-part.com. Is the removal and install of the entire bed something I can do without welding?

Front Fender - Looks like this is a bolt on. Found one pretty cheap ($66) on www.certifit.com. No problems here.

Driver Door - I have found a lot of Door Panel "how-tos" but how do you replace the entire door? Found some on www.car-part.com for $100-200, but I have no idea how to pull the doors off. Can't seem to find any instructions on here.

Rear Door - Same as driver door questions. Left side needs to be replace. Right side only needs a skin. Is skin replacement possible without welding?

Rear bed panel - this one shocked me how expensive it was. Looks like I have to weld it on too. There is damage on the passenger side too, so I have decided just to buy a used bed from a wrecking yard. Found some for $750 on car-part.com. Is the removal and install of the entire bed something I can do without welding?

Thanks!

 

Box removal and installation is a simple process, provided you have the proper torx bit to remove the box bolts. That said, the clips that hold the "nuts" on the bottom side are likely going to break free and spin. My best piece of advice here is to start a daily regiment of WD40 right now from both the top and bottom side of the box bolts. And keep doing it every day, at least once a day for a couple weeks minimum. Do it every single day until the time comes that you have to try to crack them loose. If they break free and spin, you are likely looking at grinding the top of the bolt off, and have to lift it up and over that much higher. Then you will need to figure out how to get the spinning bolt out of the nut/clip that is left. Also, watch out for a ground strap attached from the frame to the bottom of the box. Removing the rear bumper makes life easier too, especially when installing the new box.

Fenders are bolt on, but they are still quite involved. Easily do-able and as straight forward as life gets. You will have to remove the windsheild cowl, and headlight mounting panel though, and if memory serves me correctly, I think you need to pull the plastic fender liner.

For door assemblies, alot depends on whether the door you are getting has the same options as the current "old" door. If it does, you just need to pull the door panel off, and t make life easier, remove the door glass (lightens the load too), unplug all the electrical points, and feed them out the door through the plug hole. Then remove the door opening catch, and undo the 4 hinge to door bolts, leaving TOP ONE FOR LAST.Have a strong friend hold the weight of the door for you when undoing the last top bolt. Reverse the process, to install. to make life easier, pull the fender first, then take all the wiring ect out of the door, and remove the door catch. Then close the door and pull all the bolts. Then open the door, and catch it before it hits the floor.

Same process for rear door as front door. Door skins are not a "weekend warrior" project. They take skill, and some background knowledge on hammering and dollying. If you are not a bodyman, steer clear of this project.

For your re-assembly process, install the rear door first, and make sure it is aligned properly to the opening before moving to the front door, and align it properly before moving to the fender.

Door alignment is something you are going to get a crash course on. When doing it, remember these simple steps. First get the proper height, so the body lines are correct. If you undo the bolts on the bottom hinge, and pull the door out at that point, the diagonal corner of the door is going to do the exact opposite, like a teeter totter. It is very important that you get the rear door aligned first before proceeding to the front door.

 

Wow. I have been on a lot of forums, and posted a lot of questions, but I have never gotten a better, more thorough answer to a first time post. You are awesome. Thanks!

 

Canadian definitely knows what he is talking about. Almost seems like he has worked on a few things before. Hehehe.

You will want to check out those doors you found on car-part. Usually when salvage yards sell door assemblies they come with everything except mirrors. Those seems a little cheap to me. It could have some pretty bad damage or they might be gutted and are shells only which would involve more work switching over the guts. Window regulators and glass can be quiet a pain if you are not experienced. Ive watched many body men cuss up a storm installing regulators & glass.

 

Thanks for the tip BeauFlex. After talking to a few of the wrecking yards, I was getting nervous about what was included, just like you said. So I found a local yard that specializes in truck and I drove over and picked the doors and bed. I got the front driver door, both back doors and the truck bed for $900. All are in great condition. The front door doesn't have the mirror or the plastic panel, but I can transfer those easily from my current door.

The best part was that I got to watch the guy take all the parts off, so I have a much better idea what is involved in the process now.

Once I've saved up a couple dollars for the new paint job, I'll put all the parts on and get it painted all at once.

Thanks again for the help from both of you!

 

Do you have any pics?

 

I'll take a few pics of the current damage and the new parts I bought tonight when I get home. I still haven't put them on as I don't have the money to paint yet...