Oil change on ecoboost
Oil change on ecoboost
Just got done with the oil change and I would rate it 6 maybe seven out of 10 as far easyness. Went to walmart, truck calls for 5-30 blend. well for 30 cents more you get synthetic and really synthetic isnt much more than dino oil either. Either way with 6 qts and filter cost about 35 bucks. Ok to find the oil pan, I ended up taking off the metal skid plate and the front rubber liner only to find the oil pan behind the left passenger wheel. Ok put the skid plate and such back on and take off the black felt like liner, easy 4 wing nut plug type things. Plug is under two fuel lines from what it looks like so some wrenches might be a pain to get in there. Take out plug and it blows out about two feet so be careful. And it spills oil on the sway bar. OK get that empited and done.
Now on to the filter. Its PIA from the top and from the bottom you cant see it, so Ford you get stupid points for placement. Either way take off the front rubber shroud and youll see a spout that comes out the front. Loosen and filter and the oil ends up going out a spout going towards the back which I didnt see and oil ends up coming out from a rubber type seal in the skid plate, more stupid points there.
Get that all done and add 5 qts and shes full maybe a little to full. Let it sit and ran it ten miles, going to check it in a while. But when I filled the up the empty cans it was only about 5 qts maybe a 1/10th , more. I let her drain pretty good. So watch that because I think she holds about a qt of oil. Thats my experience.
Now on to the filter. Its PIA from the top and from the bottom you cant see it, so Ford you get stupid points for placement. Either way take off the front rubber shroud and youll see a spout that comes out the front. Loosen and filter and the oil ends up going out a spout going towards the back which I didnt see and oil ends up coming out from a rubber type seal in the skid plate, more stupid points there.
Get that all done and add 5 qts and shes full maybe a little to full. Let it sit and ran it ten miles, going to check it in a while. But when I filled the up the empty cans it was only about 5 qts maybe a 1/10th , more. I let her drain pretty good. So watch that because I think she holds about a qt of oil. Thats my experience.
Should have spent 5 minutes searching the forum before you started -
https://www.f150online.com/forums/v6...ange-pics.html
https://www.f150online.com/forums/v6...ange-pics.html
update after letting it sit for a while, it was a qt short. So i only took five out when it needs six, so it burnt a qt, which is to be expected during break in. Engine has 3000miles on. So if you have an EB keep an eye on it and dont wait to long for your initial oil change.
??? It really isn't that bad. There is one cover and a rubber shield to take off, both of which are on quick release fasteners. The oil from the filter drops straight through the hole in the skid plate and down the trough into a catch pan. The only thing that could be really improved is the angle of the drain plug. I would prefer it to be almost straight down like 5.4 was.
??? It really isn't that bad. There is one cover and a rubber shield to take off, both of which are on quick release fasteners. The oil from the filter drops straight through the hole in the skid plate and down the trough into a catch pan. The only thing that could be really improved is the angle of the drain plug. I would prefer it to be almost straight down like 5.4 was.
I havent changed the oil but based on what i have read here and fhe way it looks the filter looks to be the biggest mess. It looks like the way the plastic drip tray is the oil looks like it would tend to run aft even with the truck level. I wonder if parking heading down hill a bit would make less of a mess. The other thought was to put a small pan under the filter to catch the oil. The filter is not flush with the eng block like most but sticks out an inch or two so the oil would flow into a pan. Guess i will find out on 5K miles
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I havent changed the oil but based on what i have read here and fhe way it looks the filter looks to be the biggest mess. It looks like the way the plastic drip tray is the oil looks like it would tend to run aft even with the truck level. I wonder if parking heading down hill a bit would make less of a mess. The other thought was to put a small pan under the filter to catch the oil. The filter is not flush with the eng block like most but sticks out an inch or two so the oil would flow into a pan. Guess i will find out on 5K miles
Put the catch pan under the square hole in the skid plate and loosen the filter a few turns. Let the oil drain out. Then turn it quickly the rest of the way off and turn the filter upright. Keep it this way as you pull it out of the engine compartment. This way you *might* spill 8-10 drops in the tray that Ford put there.
If you can't change the oil in an EB without making a mess you should not be working on a vehicle.
It's not that big of deal. If you have ever changed the oil in a 5.4L than you know the drill. It is the same principle.
Put the catch pan under the square hole in the skid plate and loosen the filter a few turns. Let the oil drain out. Then turn it quickly the rest of the way off and turn the filter upright. Keep it this way as you pull it out of the engine compartment. This way you *might* spill 8-10 drops in the tray that Ford put there.
If you can't change the oil in an EB without making a mess you should not be working on a vehicle.
Put the catch pan under the square hole in the skid plate and loosen the filter a few turns. Let the oil drain out. Then turn it quickly the rest of the way off and turn the filter upright. Keep it this way as you pull it out of the engine compartment. This way you *might* spill 8-10 drops in the tray that Ford put there.
If you can't change the oil in an EB without making a mess you should not be working on a vehicle.
If the oil isn’t very hot, hold the drain plug in the stream of oil and you can direct it into the catch pan and keep it off the sway bar. I did this last time and it worked like a charm.
People on here make is sound like you have to pull the motor out, turn it upside down and shake all the old oil out. Other than removing the two air dams which are held on with quick release fasteners there is very little difference between changing an EB and 5.4L.
You gotta consider that of all the work that gets done at a dealer, an oil change is probably the least technically challenging. They probably won't put a highly qualified experienced tech on the job. I wouldn't be surprised if the same kid that runs the vehicles through the wash rack also does the oil changes.
You gotta consider that of all the work that gets done at a dealer, an oil change is probably the least technically challenging. They probably won't put a highly qualified experienced tech on the job. I wouldn't be surprised if the same kid that runs the vehicles through the wash rack also does the oil changes.
At pretty much any dealership the lube tech is the lowest guy in the shop and paid the least. A top tech makes pretty good money and the shop would lose money paying him to do oil changes. As it is most shops barely break even on them, it is a hook to sell more work.
I've found that you need two catch pans while changing oil,when you loosen filter seal you get another shot of oil from drain plug.
My driveway shows proof that one drain pan doesn't cut it
I've installed a fumoto drain valve and intend to attach a temp hose to valve while draning, this should allow me to move catch pan close to filter drain funnel.
My driveway shows proof that one drain pan doesn't cut it
I've installed a fumoto drain valve and intend to attach a temp hose to valve while draning, this should allow me to move catch pan close to filter drain funnel.





